[AstroBob]

Hi my i30 engine temperature is around 85 degrees when warmed up but the internal cab temp is blowing cold air. I have checked coolant level OK but  don't know what else to do. I have looked for a Haynes manual but cant seem to find one anywhere? Is there any other type of manual I can get or any info on this specific problem. I am freezing my nuts and bolts off!!
Thanks in advance for any kind of help.

[Asterix]

Hi AstroBob

 

The hoses with warm coolant always flows into the cabin. When you adjust for warm air there's an electric motor to route the air by the warm coolant or not. I would have that checked. I'm sure this have been mentioned before, please try the search function to find out how to get to the motor.

[Dazzler]

Welcome  Bob. I am using tapatalk at the moment so can't see if you have stated which model or series of i30 you have. It can make a difference in some circumstances.  There is a link on here somewhere for a purchaseable manual but again it would be easier to find on my pc. Please be patient and hopefully one of our friendly members will pop up shortly with some detailed guidance.

[AstroBob]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I should have mentioned that both pipes going through bulkhead to heater are cold when engine hot.

[Dazzler]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I should have mentioned that both pipes going through bulkhead to heater are cold when engine hot.

Definitely the controller that redirects the water through those pipes then. I try to save a dollsr where i can but probably wouldn't tackle that fix myself.

[Shambles]

Any chance a tekky could comment? The poor guy's desperate

@cruiserfied @nzenigma @tw2005

[nzenigma]

There is an electrically operated heat controller ( tap) under the dash. Thankfully, they are trouble free  so we can leave them be. Consequently, to locate it, Im trying to cast an old memory back to dash/airbag changes I have done.
Regarding a manual for the FD diesel, they aren't readily available. The $10 CDs on Ebay can be useful for everything but the motor. Only  FD Petrol.

Back to your problem. 90% chance it is electrical. Check fuses & relays first at panel on lower side of dash. Also inside engine compartment. All functions are marked on lids.   The AC/Heat control is fairly easy to get to. The  centre panel can be removed after you remove the lidded tray at top. Check to see if you have 12v on heater side.

[Dazzler]

The AC/Heat control is fairly easy to get to. The  centre panel can be removed after you remove the lidded tray at top.

Don't know if it's harder on a car with a fixed panel instead of a lidded bin on the top. Many Euro delivered FD's don't have the lidded bin on the top of the dash.. 

[sundiz]

Is there any other type of manual I can get

Hyundai i30 Workshop Manual

[Phil №❶]

What sort of internet speed do you have.

I have a file but it is 14GB in size, because you have to get all the cars Hy make.

[cruiserfied]

Asterix said it, there should always be hot coolant running through the heat exchange under the dash. A door/flap directs air through either the hot or cold path or a combination of both depending on the desired temperature.

If your not getting hot coolant through the firewall there is likely either a blockage, an airlock or possibly there is a shutoff that i don't know about (might be a cold climate thing) for the heater to help engine reach temp quicker that is not opening after reaching temp.

How old, how many km's, coolant changed recently or at all?

[Dazzler]

@AstroBob See more replies just posted...

[AstroBob]

Hi Cruiserfield,
My car is on an 09 plate and has done 78500 miles. It was flushed through last month and and new antifreeze added.

[eye30]

Hi Cruiserfield,
My car is on an 09 plate and has done 78500 miles. It was flushed through last month and and new antifreeze added.

was it OK before this work done?

If so, then issue probably due to work.

[yodm]

could very well be air lock after the coolant change

[nzenigma]

Asterix said it, there should always be hot coolant running through the heat exchange under the dash. A door/flap directs air through either the hot or cold path or a combination of both depending on the desired temperature.

If your not getting hot coolant through the firewall there is likely either a blockage, an airlock or possibly there is a shutoff that i don't know about (might be a cold climate thing) for the heater to help engine reach temp quicker that is not opening after reaching temp.

How old, how many km's, coolant changed recently or at all?

For me, this is a bizarre issue to be dealing with while sweltering in a 38 degree heat wave.

Tim probably has me standing corrected on the internal "electrical adjustment (tap)", if need be the heater unit can be 'accessed' by removing the glove compartment. If it is the heater matrix, the dash has to come out.

But better news, there is a heater control valve.... somewhere.
It is mentioned in regard to coolant, flush and removal of airlocks with "control valve open". The manual gives no more information.
At this stage I would be investigating the area where the heater hoses connect to the motor and the apparently associated thermostat body.

[AstroBob]

no my good friend it was like that before hence the reason for flush to attempt to rectify.

[AstroBob]

Hi there, you mention some sort of manual where you got your info from. Do you have an idea where I can get manual from. thanks

[nzenigma]

On the CRDi engine the heater hose (x2) takeoff is on the rear RH side.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


The lower pipe goes across to the thermostat and EGR. LH side.

Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet


If the "temperature control valve" is applied it will probably be in this latter area.

An obvious check for air lock or restriction would be to disconnect the higher of the 2 hoses going into the heater and see if coolant flows.

A Oz outback method to test for restriction is to loosen a hose clamp and allow the running pressure to blow coolant through. DANGEROUS. It will be hot so take care.


 Best First. Assuming you don't have an air compressor, you could also use pressure from your garden hose to eliminate possible restrictions. eg, test heater matrix etc. However, the thermostat will be closed on a cold motor which will greatly restrict the flow.

[nzenigma]

Hi there, you mention some sort of manual where you got your info from. Do you have an idea where I can get manual from. thanks

It was a CD sold on Ebay. I picked it up years ago, but they seem to still about. As said, no CRDi engine info. Hyundai keep that tight to themselves.
The huge file that you can download has all models.

[nzenigma]

no my good friend it was like that before hence the reason for flush to attempt to rectify.

Bob, do the most practical thing first. Take the hoses off the heater at the fire wall and hose or even blow through it to see if the core is blocked. If ok, coolant will flow through it..
Then find out where the coolant is not coming from, or going to, on the motor side.

[The Gonz]

 

Take simple, compartmentalised steps to progressively eliminate components, starting with what gives you best bang for buck (easiest + most conclusive). Probably sounds like telling you to suck eggs but, trying to visualise this from here, I'd be going through it myself to be certain, once I'd identified any related hoses, pipes, valves, cores, pumps, etc.

[nzenigma]

Take simple, compartmentalised steps to progressively eliminate components, starting with what gives you best bang for buck (easiest + most conclusive). Probably sounds like telling you to suck eggs but, trying to visualise this from here, I'd be going through it myself to be certain, once I'd identified any related hoses, pipes, valves, cores, pumps, etc.

 

Thanks  Gonz

Exactly what I was trying to say, while sitting here, demented, in 40+ degrees, trying to help a seriously lucky chap living in a sub-arctic wasteland.

 

[Phil №❶]

Careful usu-ing water pressure from the tap to clear an obstruction. If you over pressurize the heater coils and blow a weld, well you can imagine the result and expensive fix.

Air locks can happen in the i30. It is recommended that after a coolant change that the level be checked every day for 2 weeks to eliminate air.

I would suggest simply following the pipes and feeling which ones are hot and which are not. This involves no pressure but should highlight where the obstruction is.

[nzenigma]

Careful usu-ing water pressure from the tap to clear an obstruction. If you over pressurize the heater coils and blow a weld, well you can imagine the result and expensive fix.

Air locks can happen in the i30. It is recommended that after a coolant change that the level be checked every day for 2 weeks to eliminate air.

I would suggest simply following the pipes and feeling which ones are hot and which are not. This involves no pressure but should highlight where the obstruction is.

Phil raises a good point. Your house tap pressure will generally be about 30 psi. The i30 maintains about 16 psi in its cooling system. This raises the boiling point of the coolant, hence my earlier warning. So the garden hose method is ok, just use common sense and tap half on.

Trying to trace hot and cold pipes is difficult because of the close space- motor to firewall , that's why I took the shots of my 'spare'.

From your description of an on going problem, its hard to imagine that you have such an enduring air-lock. Sometimes, an air lock can be eliminated by running the engine up to full temp without the rad cap on. Then let it cool down. Top up with coolant.

The cold hoses going into the heater are the best clue. The pipes they are attached to have to be hot, are they not????