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i30 stalling whilst moving

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Offline Jason2000

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Hi everyone

My i30 2010 model which is a manual petrol motor and has 130000ks on it keeps stalling when i drive it  gets to operating temp then when i park it at the shops for a couple of hours and drive it again it stalls while slowing down to stop at traffic lights or for traffic.

It does not stall if i drive it directly from point a to point b, only when you stop for a couple of hours and then drive again so the vehicle is still warm. If i park the vehicle all day and then drive it again after it is cold it does not stall i am confused any advice would be great.
  • Hyundai i30 2010 petrol manual


Offline Aye30

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Hello, A couple of questions which may help others, What is the idle rpm cold, what is the idle rpm warm, and what grade of oil are you using? Cheers


Offline CraigB

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I suggest you get it into a service centre to look at, it could be a number of things but I would suspect of the bat it's either fuel or electrical.


Offline Jason2000

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I have had it looked at the service center and no fault code is displayed when it is hooked up to the computer. I use full synthetic oil and the revs are around 2000 Rpm hot and cold.
  • Hyundai i30 2010 petrol manual


Offline CraigB

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I have had it looked at the service center and no fault code is displayed when it is hooked up to the computer. I use full synthetic oil and the revs are around 2000 Rpm hot and cold.
Well you wont get a fault code if it's something like a clogged fuel filter, they need to inspect further, 2000rpm hot or cold is excessively high :eek: idle should be around 8-900 rpm.


Offline Dazzler

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Hi Jason and Welcome.

These no fault found responses give me the "willies"

If a car is stalling randomly then there is a fault and they have to find and fix it.

Yes, 2000 RPM idle hot or cold (for more than a few seconds) is excessive.

Unfortunately I am no mechanic but we have at least 3 brilliant technical advisors on here.  :victory:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline Jason2000

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Speaking to my mechanic we believe it may be the crank angle sensor or cam angle sensor, is anyone able to tell me which one of these is the pick up for the Tacho? as the tacho stops working after i restart the car when it stalls.
  • Hyundai i30 2010 petrol manual


Offline Dazzler

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@nzenigma @tw2005 (aka mack the knife) @cruiserfied
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Offline tw2005

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I'll put my toe in the water .I'm going to go with the crank sensor for the tacho signal. The ECU drives the tacho but the crank sensor would be what it calculates it from.



Quote.
Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) detects the crankshaft position and is one of the most important sensors of the engine control system. If there is no CKPS signal input, the engine may stop because of CKPS signal missing. This sensor is installed on transaxle housing and generates alternating current by magnetic flux field which is made by the sensor and the target wheel when engine runs. The target wheel consists of 58 slots and 2 missing slots on 360 CA (Crank Angle).


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Offline yodm

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take a look here :link: Replacing the crank shaft sensor
if, after stalling, its hard to start and no rev counter and the ESP off light is on,
then its the crank shaft position sensor.
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Offline nzenigma

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Hi Jason,
Your service centre should have picked on that idle speed. Far too high.
We have had crank sensor faults that did not show a fault code, it is an electronic device that can become temperature conscious. Works cold , but fails when hot.
To repeat the other members comments, I would start there.
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Offline Jason2000

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Thank you for the help my mechanic is going to replace the crank angle sensor.
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Offline nzenigma

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Thanks mate, good luck and please advise the changes in your car ; hopefully improved.  :victory:
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Jason2000

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Will do no problem.
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