May 18, 2016, 21:47:58 by DemmiWright | Views: 650 | Comments: 3
Sorry if the subject has already been touch on - I just couldn't find it anywhere
I have a 2014 i30 trophy 1.6lt CRDI that is having starting uses after being serviced. It currently has less then 20'000km so still in relatively brand new condition.
It had been serviced at the end of September 2015. Straight after this service the car would not start properly
It cranks over for a while (I ALWAYS glow it first) coughs and splatters and stalls a couple of times before it starts running properly. Once fully warmed up it drives normally again and there is not problem starting it when warm either.
The first time it went in to have the issue addressed (straight after the service) the...
May 17, 2016, 19:37:24 by BC | Views: 990 | Comments: 15
Hi, On a 2010 Diesel (70k), there has intermittently been a bit of smoke on cold starts. The dealer found a dirty EGR which they cleaned. This had no effect whatsoever. Now, over the last 5K since the clean and in addition to the smokey starts (which are getting a little worse), there is a strong exhaust smell around the car when idling. To put it in perspective, you probably couldn't sit with the car idling and the window open. There may also be a bit of smoke out the exhaust on the overrun when changing gears, but I'm still checking this because it is mainly visible at night in the lights of following vehicles.
Any thoughts anyone - need a new EGR or could the valve have been damaged by the clean?
April 22, 2016, 12:56:36 by Cluster2 | Views: 1344 | Comments: 13
This is my first post on the i30 Owners Club. Last week I took delivery of a new i30 Active GD4SR2 with diesel engine and 7 speed dual clutch auto. I drove the petrol model, then later on the diesel. Having never driven a diesel before, I fell in love with the torque and the effortless acceleration up steep hills. I returned to the dealer and signed to buy the car right there and then.
The car has been great, but after about 1500km a rattle has appeared in the rear. It's more of a creaking sound when the car goes over bumps, and importantly the bumps usually have to be asymmetric. A bump when driving around a corner always makes the rear creak. It's probably the hatch flexing?
April 14, 2016, 12:15:41 by gurninman | Views: 838 | Comments: 7
I have a 2010 i30 CW , and am having a problem with the brake lights on the nearside One of the bulbs was out a month or so ago , so I replaced it and all was well.The missus noticed there were no brake lights that side the other day, so I dutifully popped the cluster off and had a look at the bulbs.Both looked fine , but I swapped them with known good ones anyway.Still no good. The brake light switch must be OK, as the high level light works as do the ones on the offside The rear running lights are fine, so I can probably rule out a dodgy earth. Any more ideas ? I've seen mention of resetting the BCM - is this just a matter of disconnecting the battery for a bit , or does more need to be done ?
April 11, 2016, 20:48:14 by BlueI30 | Views: 1336 | Comments: 11
Gday all .
Wondering if anyone knows how to fix this ?
One day my wife mentioned that she couldn't close the fuel cap on her I30CW after filling up . When I had a look I noticed the plastic latch on the end of the fuel release cable was flush with the hole in the plastic fuel filler surround (bit hard to describe but I think you get the idea?) . Anyway , when I tried to coax it out with a little flat blade screwdriver it disappeared behind the plastic surround . So for months we have just been taping the fuel cap cover closed .. but high time I did something about this.
Just had a look before and it looks like maybe ? the area around where that latch pokes out might ? be able to unclip so I ca...
April 11, 2016, 04:32:43 by this guy | Views: 1332 | Comments: 15
Probably a futile post but I thought I'd give it a go anyway.
I think I might have an issue with my GD being a bit jerky during gear changes and acceleration/deceleration.
Firstly, it seems to be somewhat more difficult to upshift or downshift without jerking the car than it is in the two FD's I regularly have access to. In the FD's, if I am for example accelerating in 3rd and upshift to 4th, once the revs drop to the approprate speed for the next gear, I can swiftly let go of the clutch and the clutch engagement is seamless. If I do that in the GD, the car jerks. I can compensate for this my slowing down my clutch release halfway and can usually get a more or less seamless engagement. But again, I have...
April 05, 2016, 14:12:57 by captaindagman | Views: 1383 | Comments: 21
Hi all, I am a new member with a 2009 crdi. I have the common problem with having to push the clutch pedal into the carpet to get a clean gear change. I thought I would change the fluid and bleed the system so I bought a Vizibleed tube and had a go. Now there is so much air in the system I can't operate the clutch at all. I don't know but I suspect that air is being drawn in around the bleed nipple. All comments gratefully received !
April 04, 2016, 06:39:15 by 001steve | Views: 1260 | Comments: 16
Hey Everyone, Hoping someone can help shed some light onto our problem child of an i30.... its a 2010 fd 1.6 5 speed man crdi.... Have had it since new and apart from that mysterious vibration between 1500 and 1900 rpm that random other people have had and we just learnt to live with... its now added a kangaroo/bunny hop to the list.... Basically its as if a learner is driving it and dumped the clutch giving that jerking motion of on and off throttle..... My wife told me of it and i of course said it was just her bad driving..... Till i kangarood through a shopping centre carpark like an idiot.
took it for a drive again before and its on light appl...