[ReluctantLaunderer]

I bought my 2010 i30 CW second hand about a year ago. It now has now done about 55,000 ks.  It's my first automatic and has driven fine. Just after Christmas the malfunction indicator light went on. A bit over a week later it went off a minute or 2 after starting up, with a loud beep.

I finally got it in to the local hyundai dealer to read the error codes and they tell me it needs a new transmission, about $5k all up. From reading some other posts, it seems that this may be a bit of an issue with some i30s around this distance?  Is this true, does anyone have any insughs or suggestions about how to proceed, other than sucking it up and getting a new transmission? 

Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.  Cars are not my thing, and nothing I've owned before have had any major issues! I'm disappointed,  as I've really liked the car

[tw2005]

I bought my 2010 i30 CW second hand about a year ago. It now has now done about 55,000 ks.  It's my first automatic and has driven fine. Just after Christmas the malfunction indicator light went on. A bit over a week later it went off a minute or 2 after starting up, with a loud beep.

I finally got it in to the local hyundai dealer to read the error codes and they tell me it needs a new transmission, about $5k all up. From reading some other posts, it seems that this may be a bit of an issue with some i30s around this distance?  Is this true, does anyone have any insughs or suggestions about how to proceed, other than sucking it up and getting a new transmission? 

Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.  Cars are not my thing, and nothing I've owned before have had any major issues! I'm disappointed,  as I've really liked the car

Have you got the report with the codes? Never heard of a loud beep associated with a MIL. before but I'm fairly new to Hyundai too myself.

Got any other info like symptoms or what it's actually doing?

 Logbooks? Service History?

[Dazzler]

Welcome. Really sorry to hear that!

Obviously it is not practical to spend that sort of money on a 7 year old car, so hopefully we can (with the help of some of our members) guide you through with cheaper alternative strategies.

Yes, there is a lot to like about a CW. My wife had a 2010 Petrol (manual) CW for 4 years until I traded it on a 2014 version... I still get reminded occasionally how much she loved the 2010 model.

As Gerard says we really need to hear more about the symptoms before we can help you with advice. Just to give you a glimmer of hope in the meantime, there are options including using a good 2nd hand transmission for much less than half that including labour. 

A good Transmission specialist may also have cheaper fixes available (but, keep in mind I am not a technical advisor)

[sundiz]

I30 automatic transmissions have had issues with valve body system. You might want to try search with "transmission valve body" and check if the symptons are similar.

[ReluctantLaunderer]

I'm told they found error codes
P0700
P0741
C1513
C1260
B1102

I've not noticed any of the clunks / racing engine that others report with valve body issues but the dealer mechanic reported 'found gearbox abnormal shifting,  found delay into reverse and burnt fluid'. New gear box recommended'.

I've  always thought that I would change gears better than the automatic gearbox, but didn't notice any 'abnormal shifting'.  On the short drive home from the Hyundai dealer yesterday it did seem to be not very certain about which gear it should be.  Not sure if its my not noticing before or if something they did made any symptoms more evident. Still not experiencing anything majorly scary like some have reported.

I have a dealer warranty,  from my purchase - but as that's only for $1k per repair it seems pretty useless. I haven't contacted them yet.

Any point in contacting Hyundai,  or getting it investigated further elsewhere?

[Phil №❶]

I'm not a tech advisor either but the best advice is to go to a reputable auto trans specialist and get advice from them. It most likely is the valve body.
burnt oil is not an excuse to buy a whole new auto. Get the iol cleaned out and replaced with new, get everything else checked and it'll be like new again and last for years.
I owns 2 Hy autos, never had a problem with either.   

[ReluctantLaunderer]

I live surrounded by car places so will see if i can get someone to look at it today or Monday,  thanks!

Fingers and toes crossed! I've grown very attached to my car over the past year and will be quite reluctant to get another if this kind of issue is fairly widespread at a relatively young age/distance. 

[Surferdude]

I live surrounded by car places so will see if i can get someone to look at it today or Monday,  thanks!

Fingers and toes crossed! I've grown very attached to my car over the past year and will be quite reluctant to get another if this kind of issue is fairly widespread at a relatively young age/distance.

It's certainly not widespread but as others have said, like anything there is the odd issue. These assume pretty big proportions when quotes of $5000 or so are bandied around.
I assume the 55,000 klms you mention are from new, not since you've had it?  At that sort of mileage (sorry, kilometerage doesn't sound right), the car would have to have been subject to some serious abuse to cause major damage to the transmission. So, again I'm not a technical adviser, but have 40 years in the automotive industry and motor sport, I'd be getting a couple of other opinions from automatic transmission specialists.
All the best with it.

[tw2005]

I'm told they found error codes
P0700
P0741
C1513
C1260
B1102

I've not noticed any of the clunks / racing engine that others report with valve body issues but the dealer mechanic reported 'found gearbox abnormal shifting,  found delay into reverse and burnt fluid'. New gear box recommended'.

I've  always thought that I would change gears better than the automatic gearbox, but didn't notice any 'abnormal shifting'.  On the short drive home from the Hyundai dealer yesterday it did seem to be not very certain about which gear it should be.  Not sure if its my not noticing before or if something they did made any symptoms more evident. Still not experiencing anything majorly scary like some have reported.

I have a dealer warranty,  from my purchase - but as that's only for $1k per repair it seems pretty useless. I haven't contacted them yet.

Any point in contacting Hyundai,  or getting it investigated further elsewhere?

SO is the warranty is one of those insurance types or is it tied to the selling dealer?. More info on that like who?

 Been a long time probably 20 years the last time I had a similar situation. AWN it was in QLD and limited to a grand then too. Would have worked out for me except the RACQ trans place was a fraudulent crook.

I would look into to how that warranty works, a bit closer. You already have supporting docs from a Hyundai Dealer t to get that grand is what you want. Most likely it'll only get paid out to an authorised repairer .

WOuld like more info.

Correct diagnosis and repair , the next challenge. I say that because anyone can say , oh you need a new gearbox, problem solved. But do you??


P0700 - Transmission Control System(MIL REQUEST)   
P0741  TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH STUCK OFF

C1513 Brake Switch Error
There's a recall for them and I've had both my i30s done free regardless of age or mileage.
C1260 Steering Angle Sensor Circuit-Signal
B1102 ECU Supplemental Restraint System (SRS)

I'm not 100% on the last . Cruiserfield is going to know a whole lot more but I did read a comment of his on another recent thread on valve bodies and typical VB failures don't throw codes like P0700 , P0741.

Kinda curious with those last two, almost as if someone may have doing some work on the steering wheel and triggered them.

How quick does it engage reverse?

So the MIL came on but it is driving fine?

[ReluctantLaunderer]

Yes, 55k kms in total - I've done about 6k of them in the past year.

 'How can this kind of thing happen' was my plaintive question to the dealership yesterday.  Fwiw, it's not ex fleet, was privately owned before and all log book services are properly recorded as far as I can tell. The former owner used to get it serviced atthe dealership I took it to.

[Dazzler]

I agree with Phil. I would do some research to find a Transmission specialist in your area with a good reputation and then get a quote for an inspection and transmission oil change. If you are not getting any appreciable lag when engaging reverse or any other obvious flaring during gear changes then with that mileage and service history an oil change (transmission) may very well be all you need at a relatively minimal cost.

Those limited warranties are seldom worth claiming on because either they jack the price up by the amount of the cover (as they know they will have to wait for their money) or the job is only done as a half measure to fit within the limit in the hope that by the time it fails again the limited warranty will have expired. That is my experience anyway - I had quite a bit to do with car dealerships in my younger days including a short stint selling cars.

Also (I hope you don't mind me saying this...) from your profile name and what I can see of your profile (as an Admin) I'm guessing you are female. If you have a Male Partner or Adult Son I would take them with you to get a quote as unfortunately there are still some businesses out there who will take advantage of a female in situations like that (assuming they have little mechanical or repair cost knowledge) 

[ReluctantLaunderer]

What a great community this is! Thanks again 

There's maybe a couple of second delay before reverse engages  - unnoticeable to me as I always have the brake on before shifting to reverse.

MIL came on then went off again.  I noticed no change in the way it drives at either of these times.

So dealer warranty is 3yr/set # of km which I'd never hit. Must get serviced through them, any covered component will be replaced or repaired.  Cover is $1000 per repair, and capped at X # of repairs. Fine print says re transmission 'internally lubricated parts only' or the transmission case if problem is due to a failure of an internally lubricated part. So I reckon it's completely useless to me.

Yep, am female - but SO doesn't drive and I am the negotiator/front person - and that's exactly why I was hoping you could all educate me a bit before having to talk to experts. He'd be more hopeless than I will be, I expect!

Will definitely be getting a second opinion from a specialist, thanks for the advice

[Dazzler]

 

My Wife is a tougher negotiator than me (her favourite words of negotiation are "that is bull$hit") but sometimes just having a male present when asking for a quote can be enough to stop any assumed vulnerability.

Although, saying that, you will be armed with a lot of useful info which will certainly put you in a stronger position...

[tw2005]

What a great community this is! Thanks again 

There's maybe a couple of second delay before reverse engages  - unnoticeable to me as I always have the brake on before shifting to reverse.

MIL came on then went off again.  I noticed no change in the way it drives at either of these times.

So dealer warranty is 3yr/set # of km which I'd never hit. Must get serviced through them, any covered component will be replaced or repaired.  Cover is $1000 per repair, and capped at X # of repairs. Fine print says re transmission 'internally lubricated parts only' or the transmission case if problem is due to a failure of an internally lubricated part. So I reckon it's completely useless to me.

Yep, am female - but SO doesn't drive and I am the negotiator/front person - and that's exactly why I was hoping you could all educate me a bit before having to talk to experts. He'd be more hopeless than I will be, I expect!

Will definitely be getting a second opinion from a specialist, thanks for the advice

Interesting to see if the Valve Body comes under that but it is internal and it is lubricated .

I would say 2 secs to engage a gear is not good and a delayed engagement.

Just started my car up from cold it appeared to be less than a second into reverse the first time and instant going into D and then back to R again also instant.

Probably worth a read through these for a lot of historical comments and opinions.

I guess you're in Sydney?

I don't have anything more concrete to offer. I would be guessing.

FAO of members with Auto Transmission

If you know anyone else with an i30 auto, maybe take it for a drive and compare.

[tw2005]

Reply 23 caught my attention mainly because of the two codes.

"i have just come across this thread and am happy to share what I have discovered about I30 transmissions
* in my Jan 2010 build I30 both Petrol and Diesel share the same transmission - the diesel transmission has trouble coping with the torque of the diesel motor which causes the valve body to wear. If this is caught early enough its a simple replacement of this part.
* when my car started having problems (probably started at around 45000kms) I notice a definite lag in engaging reverse and over time the car seemed to struggle changing gears sometimes over 4000rpm before gear change would engage, usually on a hill ( this only ever happened twice to this degree and both times an error code was registered -
P0700 – Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0741 – Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off.
* another warning sign is burnt transmission oil - which should of been picked up at dealer service.
*my transmission was replaced at 73000kms with a reconditioned transmission. This had come from a transmission specialist (I believe based in Melbourne) that Hyundai employ to recondition faulty transmissions. It can be a week turn around for the dealer to take your transmission out send it off to the specialist and they send a reconditioned one to replace it. Your transmission then gets fixed to go into someone elses car.
* when i inquired about a brand new transmission they said it would be over a months wait as one would have to come from overseas as they are not stocked in Australia and I wouldnt get one as my car had done far too many kms (so much for unlimited km warranty and this was told to me by the dealer service centre and not Hyundai)
* at the 90000kms service I reported that I noticed that the lag in reverse and the deep grumble in changing gears was back. They test drove the car and couldn't find a problem but told me to monitor this. At the 105000km service they asked about the lag and I told them it was still there and was worse. They drove the car again with no issues ( a 2 minute drive over hours a day spent driving the car?) but were happy to except that there might be an issue and are going to replace the valve body to be sure.
*When I take it back in (still waiting notification that the valve body kit has arrived - now 4000kms later) I will inquire again as to what the problem was with the original transmission will let you know how I go.
a friend came across this article on RACQ website:-
Not Found | RACQ,_2007_onwards this article from the RACQ written last November also touches on the valve body being the cause of the slipping transmission...."

[cruiserfied]

P0741 is what they need to be looking at.
Did they do any kind of diagnosis? They should have done data checks, solenoid actuation tests, fluid pressure tests.
The code can be caused by bad solenoid, low fluid pressure (blockage or internal transmission leak) or the clutch on the torque convertor.

P0700 is only the Auto computer asking the Engine computer to please illuminate the engine light to show i have developed a fault.

[ReluctantLaunderer]

What a great community this is! Thanks again 

There's maybe a couple of second delay before reverse engages  - unnoticeable to me as I always have the brake on before shifting to reverse.

MIL came on then went off again.  I noticed no change in the way it drives at either of these times.

So dealer warranty is 3yr/set # of km which I'd never hit. Must get serviced through them, any covered component will be replaced or repaired.  Cover is $1000 per repair, and capped at X # of repairs. Fine print says re transmission 'internally lubricated parts only' or the transmission case if problem is due to a failure of an internally lubricated part. So I reckon it's completely useless to me.

Yep, am female - but SO doesn't drive and I am the negotiator/front person - and that's exactly why I was hoping you could all educate me a bit before having to talk to experts. He'd be more hopeless than I will be, I expect!

Will definitely be getting a second opinion from a specialist, thanks for the advice

Interesting to see if the Valve Body comes under that but it is internal and it is lubricated .

I would say 2 secs to engage a gear is not good and a delayed engagement.

Just started my car up from cold it appeared to be less than a second into reverse the first time and instant going into D and then back to R again also instant.

Probably worth a read through these for a lot of historical comments and opinions.

I guess you're in Sydney?

I don't have anything more concrete to offer. I would be guessing.

FAO of members with Auto Transmission

If you know anyone else with an i30 auto, maybe take it for a drive and compare.

The delay to reverse engaging is about 3 seconds. I think I do have the problem discussed in the FAO thread unfortunately. Will be getting it in to a transmission specialist as soon as I can next week for a second opinion.

I specifically asked at the dealership yesterday if this was a known issue, as I'd read the first page of the FAO thread while waiting for the service consultant, and was told no. I'll be complaining to hyundai before shelling out for a replacement,  as this is enough to put me off getting another one even new with a 5 year manufacturer's warranty

How concerned do I need to be in the meantime about driving around do you think?

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[ReluctantLaunderer]

P0741 is what they need to be looking at.
Did they do any kind of diagnosis? They should have done data checks, solenoid actuation tests, fluid pressure tests.
The code can be caused by bad solenoid, low fluid pressure (blockage or internal transmission leak) or the clutch on the torque convertor.

P0700 is only the Auto computer asking the Engine computer to please illuminate the engine light to show i have developed a fault.

Not sure that they did anything like this.  I paid for 2 hours investigation  (I authorised a second hour so they could confirm their suspicions after accessing the error codes) and asked for a report so could show the dealer I bought from.  The report was about 4 lines, which I've almost entirely already posted verbatim. Should I ask them if they did this,  so can tell whoever I take it to for a second opinion / be more confident in their assessment? 

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

[Phil №❶]

I'd still take it to an independent specialist. They seem to be cheaper than Hy service, but make sure they're reputable.

[tw2005]

some p0741 info

[Craig]

FWIW my 2010 diesel auto still changes gear smooth as butter with 125k kms on the clock. 

Hope you get it sorted.

[Phil №❶]

Same model and so ours does too. 

[tw2005]

FWIW my 2010 diesel auto still changes gear smooth as butter with 125k kms on the clock. 

Hope you get it sorted.

Curious to know if / when fluid flush was done?

[Craig]

FWIW my 2010 diesel auto still changes gear smooth as butter with 125k kms on the clock. 

Hope you get it sorted.

Curious to know if / when fluid flush was done?

Fluid is untouched.

[tw2005]

FWIW my 2010 diesel auto still changes gear smooth as butter with 125k kms on the clock. 

Hope you get it sorted.

Curious to know if / when fluid flush was done?

Fluid is untouched.

Interesting, climate a lot cooler probably more favourable on the transmission. I could not imagine going that long, drained a 40 000k box recently and looked pretty dirty. Our max temps are twice yours in summer from what I read.

[Craig]

FWIW my 2010 diesel auto still changes gear smooth as butter with 125k kms on the clock. 

Hope you get it sorted.

Curious to know if / when fluid flush was done?

Fluid is untouched.

Interesting, climate a lot cooler probably more favourable on the transmission. I could not imagine going that long, drained a 40 000k box recently and looked pretty dirty. Our max temps are twice yours in summer from what I read.

Yeah ATF fluid is generally considered to last 160k here. Most people will never need to change it as they would get rid of the car before it needed done.