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Your problem is probably glow plug relay and burnt relay contacts as tw2005 said.Resistance when measuring with ohmmeter can be in tolerance(0.03 ohm is ok when relay in triggered state) but in real life when glow plugs needs that current flow things are much different.You can open relay housing and look at working contacts.Burnt contacts looks like this:
Not that I can visualise the zip rail right now, but the symptoms certainly describe a short circuit to ground after the relay.
Quote from: The Gonz on February 11, 2017, 07:15:25Not that I can visualise the zip rail right now, but the symptoms certainly describe a short circuit to ground after the relay.I have absolutely no idea what the real name is. It's one of those things that i just say the first thing that comes to mind and hope that you understand because thats what we're talking about.Zip railBuzz barPower railIt all works lol.
Well, I removed buzz bar (plate) and tested each plug individually with some heavy duty (15A) wire that I'd bought to do exactly the test suggested by nzenigma earlier. The difference this time, was I trying to determine if the fuse was hot or blown whereas before, I was simply looking for a blown fuse.The fuse did warm a little but certainly no melting of plastic and no blown fuse.I replaced buzz bar and tried again and no hot fuse. No blown fuse either. I inspected the installation of the bar and the connection from the fuse terminal and it is exactly as I had it before. How do I know this? Because I inspected every millimetre with a concave mirror and a torch.The damn thing has fixed itself! Car starts with no smoke.The only thing different was I took apart the relay, smoothed the contact surfaces with a piece of paper (closed contacts with fingers and gently dragged paper through) and wiped contacts with microfibre cloth. I also tried to gently bend the contact arm so that the two contacts might meet in a slightly different place. I have no idea if the bending did anything as the difference before and after was imperceptible. I'm doubtful I did anything of consequence. Anyway, I got the idea from this page, (link) Relays failures. I strongly suspect my victory will be short lived.Thanks again for all your help.
Is it possible - because I've tried hard to investigate other possibilities - that a relay could 'weld' itself into a closed circuit? Temporarily?I am convinced that a fuse can only be blown if the circuit essentially has no resistance. And it's easy to blame an uninsulated positive buzz bar. So I've scruntinised this thing to the very last atom. (BTW, Why make it this way?)I've had some very strange results including the engine stalling (twice!) after replacing the first fuse. I realise I'm new to this, but there is definitely some voodoo magic thing going on to now have it working just fine. I should add that I donated a 1997 Toyota to a good cause so the Car-Gods smile upon me, and this might explain something. Thanks for all your posts. If the i30 mojo runs out again, I'll add to this thread.
Is it possible ...- that a relay could 'weld' itself into a closed circuit? Temporarily?
I am convinced that a fuse can only be blown if the circuit essentially has no resistance.
And it's easy to blame an uninsulated positive buzz bar. So I've scruntinised this thing to the very last atom. (BTW, Why make it this way?)