i30 Owners Club
GOT PROBLEMS OR ISSUES? => DIESEL => Topic started by: dham on November 04, 2008, 04:27:48
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The 1.6 CRDi diesel filter (a standard spin-on cartridge) looks very awkward to change. To me it looks like air intake ducting must be removed for access, filter sensor wires disconnected, fuel lines disconnected (how?) and then filter bracket complete with shroud and cartridge unbolted from bulkhead to allow cartridge to be spun off and new one spun on. But maybe there is an easier way? Any tips/observations would be much appreciated. Certainly the oil filter element is easy to replace!
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welcome to the forums,
unfortunately i havn't got my i30 yet and don't have any answers for you. but i'll keep reading cos id be keen to know who aswell.
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The 1.6 CRDi diesel filter (a standard spin-on cartridge) looks very awkward to change. To me it looks like air intake ducting must be removed for access, filter sensor wires disconnected, fuel lines disconnected (how?) and then filter bracket complete with shroud and cartridge unbolted from bulkhead to allow cartridge to be spun off and new one spun on. But maybe there is an easier way? Any tips/observations would be much appreciated. Certainly the oil filter element is easy to replace!
Hi dham
Welcome to the club... I'm sure someone will have the answer.. There are a few good "tech" heads on the site
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Haven't really got a clue as to how to change the filter inside the canister. However, I have had the whole filter unit replaced before the first service to solve a fuel aeration problem that caused an intermittent rpm limit of 2950rpm. The service manager said Hyundai allowed 20min for the work to be completed and that was for the whole job.
I know that the filter becomes more accessible when you remove the plastic shroud from the motor and I would say if you knew what you were doing, then it would be possible to remove the filter without removing the filter unit.
Bob
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I agree that it might be possible but still don't know how! Certainly removing engine cover is the first step for all the routine servicing such as oil and oil filter and diesel filter. But it remains quite squeezy between engine and bulkhead and hard also to access diesel filter from below. Hopefully someone, somewhere has done it and can advise! On more 'agricultural' machines (including my old LR Defender) replacing the spin on fiuel filter is the work of a couple of minutes (potential bleeding problems excluded).
For me it is important to be able to change diesel filter without recourse to dealer not only if, like me, you do your own servicing at more regular intervals than specified, but also if on, for example, a outback trip devoid of dealers you get a bad load of fuel that clogs said filter and requires a filter change to allow onward progress! With diesels I am therefore a believer in carrying a spare fuel filter if venturing beyond city limits.
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i take my Car to an intependent, the owner works on his own and he is also a diesel Tech and very good at what he does.
He made servicing the i30 look easy.
I asked him does he think the fuel filter will be hard to remove, he said it will be easy as he has done similar one's and they are simple to remove if you know what your doing.
when the time comes i'll watch him do it.
then i'll know, i thought myself it looked like was in a tight possition.
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1.
Drain the engine oil.
(1)
Remove the oil filler cap.
(2)
Loosen the oil filter cap slowly until its O-ring(C)'s coming out.
Be cautious of oil's overflowing at this moment.
(3)
Remove the oil drain plug, and drain the oil into a container.
2.
Replace the oil filter(B).
(1)
Remove the oil filter upper cap(A).
(2)
Replace the O-ring(C, D) of oil filter cap with a new one.
Inspect the threads and O-ring(C, D). Wipe off the seat on the oil filter cap, then apply a light coat of oil to the oil filter upper cap O-ring(C, D).
(3)
Install the new oil filter by hand to the upper cap.
(4)
After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise.
Tightening torque :
24.5N.m(2.5kgf.m, 18.1lb-ft)
3.
Refill with engine oil.
(1)
Clean and install the oil drain plug with a new gasket.
Tightening torque :
34.3 ~ 44.1N.m (3.5 ~ 4.5kgf.m, 25.3 ~ 32.5lb-ft)
(2)
Fill with fresh engine oil.
Fill half amount of total oil first and then do the rest after 1 minute or more.
Oil Capacity
When replacing a short engine or a block assembly - 5.7L(6.02US qt, 5.02lmp qt)
When replacing oil pan only - 4.8L (5.07US qt, 4.22lmp qt)
Drain and refill including oil filter - 5.3L (5.60US qt, 4.66lmp qt)
(3)
Install the oil filler cap.
4.
Start engine and check for oil leaks.
5.
Recheck the engine oil level.
Have any questions just PM me but TBH its a piece of cake man, Just remove the engine cover (2 10mm bolts) then just yank it off. Then get a 22mm socket ( I think) and undo the filter. Its really easy dont have to remove anything.
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Cheers TiLlA531,
that good info on oil filter.
Can you possibly do same for diesel filter?
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Hi TiLlA531,
Would also be useful to have link or address of the website with that good info. I have not been able to find anything like a shop manual online for the i30 diesel.
I agree that changing oil and oil filter is dead easy.
dham
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Hi TiLlA531,
Would also be useful to have link or address of the website with that good info. I have not been able to find anything like a shop manual online for the i30 diesel.
I agree that changing oil and oil filter is dead easy.
dham
Sorry mate dont have 1, but if you have any questions or want any more info just PM me
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Cheers TiLlA531,
that good info on oil filter.
Can you possibly do same for diesel filter?
Mate that is the diesel oil filter, diesel's have a carttridge oil filter and petrol's have a "spin-on" oil filter
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Can you possibly do same for diesel filter?
I'm interpreting this as "diesel fuel filter"
Pip
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Cheers TiLlA531,
that good info on oil filter.
Can you possibly do same for diesel filter?
I mean the fuel filter.
Sorry if I caused confusion between the hemispheres.
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OK - have done it!
1. Remove air duct between airbox (airfilter) and turbo (c/w hose from rocker cover) to make space.
2. Disconnect both fuel lines to filter (pull out orange catch, push in blue tab, pull off line).
3. Disconnect all three wiring connections to filter assembly.
4. Remove the four nuts holding the whole shroud bracket and filter assembly to bulkhead (need a deepish 12mm socket).
5. Lift out complete filter assembly, unbolt filter from shroud bracket, unscrew filter and replace with new one.
6. Reverse above process to refit!
Long winded compared to most other diesel filters but not hard to do.
dham
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Thanks for that... How often is that supposed to be done?
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Thanks for that... How often is that supposed to be done?
From memory every 2 years/ 20,000 miles.
I'll check tomorrow as it's detailed in the Handbook.
EDIT:
I can't find service schedule but warranty on fuel filter is 2 years/100,000 miles.
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The 1.6 CRDi diesel filter (a standard spin-on cartridge) looks very awkward to change. To me it looks like air intake ducting must be removed for access, filter sensor wires disconnected, fuel lines disconnected (how?) and then filter bracket complete with shroud and cartridge unbolted from bulkhead to allow cartridge to be spun off and new one spun on. But maybe there is an easier way? Any tips/observations would be much appreciated. Certainly the oil filter element is easy to replace!
If you want "difficult to change" you should try looking at your windscreen wiper fluid bottle. Try getting that thing out in a hurry. I have to change the fluid because it leaves this ugly white residue all over my windscreen, looks like I'm finding a tube and doing a suck and siphon job.
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If you want "difficult to change" you should try looking at your windscreen wiper fluid bottle. Try getting that thing out in a hurry. I have to change the fluid because it leaves this ugly white residue all over my windscreen, looks like I'm finding a tube and doing a suck and siphon job.
In the 2002 Elantra hatch I had for an interim vehicle early last year I had to replace a damaged washer bottle and the easiest (pretty much only) way to get it out was to remove the wheel arch lining and get it out that way!
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OK - have done it!
1. Remove air duct between airbox (airfilter) and turbo (c/w hose from rocker cover) to make space.
2. Disconnect both fuel lines to filter (pull out orange catch, push in blue tab, pull off line).
3. Disconnect all three wiring connections to filter assembly.
4. Remove the four nuts holding the whole shroud bracket and filter assembly to bulkhead (need a deepish 12mm socket).
5. Lift out complete filter assembly, unbolt filter from shroud bracket, unscrew filter and replace with new one.
6. Reverse above process to refit!
Long winded compared to most other diesel filters but not hard to do.
dham
Dont forget to bleed all the air out. Easiest way would probably be to leave the outlet hose off and pump the hand primer until all the air is out of the new cartridge, being replaced by diesel.
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Found a reference to changing the PETROL fuel filter @ 36 months service.
Presume same for DIESEL.
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hi, i'm about to change my fuel filter , i have above 39000km on clock , in instruction it's written that fuel filter should be changed every 30000km.
about service stuff, you can read on http://service.hyundai-motor.com , just register, login, and many information is in "shop manual" section.
thanks for additiona tips like "1. Remove air duct between airbox (airfilter) and turbo (c/w hose from rocker cover) to make space." it'll be useful :)
cheers.