i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => DIESEL => Topic started by: sundiz on June 03, 2015, 07:07:23
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I took my car to the MOT. Car passed the inspection without problems. What a better way to waste a day than fix a car that isn't broken? At the moment my car has 86000km.
Well actually I have wanted to replace the coolant, because I had my doubts about the last service the car had before I bought It. I have also wanted to clean the EGR before it becomes so filty that it would cause problems. The EGR system is a bit different than I have seen in other cars. In i30 there is EGR cooler connected to the actual EGR valve. This cooler is actually a bunch of small pipes where EGR "gas" goes through coolant. In theory it is actually a nice thing. The coolant warms up a little bit faster and the "gas" that goes to the intake manifold is not as hot as it would be without the cooler. So cleaning the EGR had to be done at that point when there is no coolant in the engine...
Changing the coolant is a quick and easy job. Just open the cap from the reservoir and then open the drain plug from the passenger side of the radiator (in a left hand drive car).
The drain plug.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2009.32.24.jpg)
Old vs new.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2009.52.14.jpg)
According to the service book, the car had been serviced 2 years/ 35 000km ago. Never seen goolant go that bad in such a short time. I doubt that the coolant has not been changed in that service...
Removing the EGR should be easy job (arrording to the shop manual).
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-03%2006.39.14.jpg)
The engine bay is fairly tight and there is no extra room. I ended up removing the top of the air filter, the air pipe from nose to the air filter, the air pipe from filter to the turbo, upper waterhose between the radiator and thermostat and of course the two coolant hoses thet go to the EGR cooler.
You also need to remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold so you can get to the bolts that hold the exhaust-egr pipe. And boy those three bolts were tight. Heat stress in the exhaust really got thos bolts jammed. Had to use impact wrench to get those open.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2016.01.55.jpg)
After that it is just opening the nuts and bolts there is holding the EGR & EGR cooler at their place. The engine bay is so tight that I was not able the get it out after removing all the nuts and bolts. I had the remove the cooler from the actual EGR before I was able to fit them out. The actual EGR was in better condition than I expected. The worst part was definately the pipe from the cooler to the intake manifold.
Assembly
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2011.52.39.jpg)
Cooler to intake.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2011.52.48.jpg)
Exhaust manifold.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2012.20.23.jpg)
EGR valve.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2011.53.03.jpg)
I recommed byuing a EGR cleaner. I bought valvoline egr & turbo cleaner. That seemed to get the carbon out pretty good. I also filled the EGR cooler (the erg side, not the coolant side) with gasoline and let it sit for 15min. That really helped to get the carbon sludge out of the cooler. The final cleaning was made with the egr cleaner.
Some pics after the cleaning operation:
Intake manifold
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2012.19.40.jpg)
EGR valve
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2012.20.03.jpg)
Exhaust
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/i30/2015-06-02%2011.52.57.jpg)
After that it had to be put back under the hood. First the egr cooler, then egr, connect the coolant hoses, few electric wires, air hoses etc. After all that had been done I added new coolant to the system. Bleeded most of the air out from the coolant system and went for a test drive. There were no improvement in the performance, but I must say that the EGR was not as dirty as I thougt it would be. But at least I have now new coolant in the engine and a clean EGR system. In mechanical side of view it is pretty simple operation to do. Only problem is that there is no extra room and some of the bolts were really tight. It took me 7 hours to the whole job (well that includes 1 hour lunch and 1.5 hour trip to spare parts strore to buy magnetic tool because someone dropped one of the bolts inside the enginebay...) If I did this again, it would probably go in 3-4 hours max.
When looking the the state of the EGR with 86000 km on it, I would say that It should go 150 000-200 000km without problems. It seems that the actual valve is not the most dirty part, it's the EGR cooler intake manifold side. Now that I have seem what kind of nasty crap there is, I would like to remove the intake manifold and clean that as well. But that has to wait for other time. I don't know how easy the intake manifold is to take off, but I would think that you need to replace the seals etc... With egr parts you can use the old ones (metallic seals), because they seemed to be in really good condition.
One thing I would also like to say, is that who the hell decided to use 12mm nuts and bolts in the i30? Usually the bolts have been 13mm etc in other cars, but why on earth they used 12mm? That is such an odd size that most of my tool kits do not even have 12mm sockets and wrenches. Luckily found some 12mm tools but still... Had to use normal sockets with impact wrench to get the exhaust manifold heat shield off. Well, now I got a good reason to byu more tools...
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Looking at what was removed from the radiator doesn't appear to even have coolant in it, I'd say whoever filled it only used plain water :disapp:
Good job with the EGR removal description and clean, that should help other diesel owners :goodjob:
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:Agoodpost: :judges: sunsdiz :ta:
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Today I continued working with the car. Cleaned the interior with a normal vacuum cleaner. After that I washed the drivers seat and drivers floor with my Kärcher. I don't know what this thing is in english, but it works like vacuum, but it also has spray nozzle for water/cleaning liquid. It basicly sucks the liquid you spray immediately off from the surface you spray it on. One of the best things I've ever bought. I have used it to clean 3 cars, floor mats, sofas etc...
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06-04%2015.55.57.jpg)
I washed my interior last summer, so it's been about 1 year since last time. I have been driving mostly alone so didn't need to wash the whole interior. This was the water after driver seat and floor. It's hard to believe how much s**t you can get out from "clean" seat. All this crap came out only from drivers seat and floor.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0063.jpg)
Now it's like brand new.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06-04%2015.56.43.jpg)
Those cleaners can be a bit pricy, but If you ever get your hands on of those, I higly recommend to try it to your car interior.
If it does not rain tomorrow, I'll be trying to change the brake/clutch fluid...
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Nice job, Sundiz.. :goodjob2:
One thing I would also like to say, is that who the hell decided to use 12mm nuts and bolts in the i30? Usually the bolts have been 13mm etc in other cars, but why on earth they used 12mm? That is such an odd size that most of my tool kits do not even have 12mm sockets and wrenches. Luckily found some 12mm tools but still... Had to use normal sockets with impact wrench to get the exhaust manifold heat shield off. Well, now I got a good reason to byu more tools...
I think you have had euro build cars before..? My experience is that euro build cars use DIN bolts/nuts and Asian build cars use ISO, hence the difference in the diameter of the bolts & nuts.
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I think you have had euro build cars before..?
Correct. Used to drive & fix Ford (build in Germany), Volvo and some Mercedes. That might explain the difference. I guess I should stay off from american cars. They probably use inch size nuts and bolts... :confused:
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I think you have had euro build cars before..?
Correct. Used to drive & fix Ford (build in Germany), Volvo and some Mercedes. That might explain the difference. I guess I should stay off from american cars. They probably use inch size nuts and bolts... :confused:
My Dodge was all metric (2007 Dodge Caliber) :goodjob:
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My 1970 VW Beetle was made in Germany, but assembled in Australia. So it had both metric and imperial sizes everywhere. :crazy1:
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Brake/clutch fluid reservoir had a really thight filter on the top of the reservoir. I was not able to remove it so I could suck the reservoir empty before adding new liquid. I did not want to use any force to the filter, because with my luck I would have break it. I decided to push all the liquid through the system. Filled the reservoir and pushed it throug rear right brake line. It took some time before the liquid started to be clear, but it was easiest for me. Especially when I had one pair of extra legs pushing the brake pedal.
According to repair manual the bleeding order in i30 is:
1. Rear right
2. Front left
3. Rear left
4. Front right
That was new thing for me. In my previous cars you had to bleed the rear tyres first...
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0064.jpg)
The "bleed valve for clutch" is in the front end of the transmission. I removed two 10mm bolts so I could get the air intake pipe off and get some room for my hands.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0067.jpg)
"Clutch bleeding valve"
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0065.jpg)
The brake liquid had seen better days. It was really blurry or "not transparent" as the new one. Started to wonder if It had been ever changed...
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0066.jpg)
I changed the motor oil couple of weeks ago. Changed the air filters (cabin & motor). It should be now ready for new adventures and the next service should be motor oil change after 10 000km. I guess I could wash & wax it, but the weather doesn't seem to allow that...
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You are a real D.I.Y. Guy! :eek: :goodjob2: :goodjob:
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Thanks to Asterix's good instructions (:link: HOW TO: Change drivebelt on 1,6 CRDi (https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=36267.0)) I was able to change my drive belt. I have 93000 km in the car now and the belt has seen better days. I would think this was original from the factory.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0176.jpg)
I went to local HY dealer so I would get the right belt. They did not have it there but there was a spare part store near by that they recommended. They even gave me the oem part number (252122A310) and told the spare part store has those. Went there with the part number and they weren't able to use it for some reason. Then they asked my car specs and told that there are two possibilities 1800mm and 1815mm long belts (thats why I went to the dealer so I would not have to guess which is the right one). The guy checked something from the computer and told he found the right one. I was happy, took the belt and came home. I changed the belt. During the operation I compared it to the old one. Seemed to same lenght. After the fix I checked the package and saw that they sold me 1810mm belt... so basicly it is 10mm too long or 5mm too short. It seems to work so I would guess that few mm's here and there won't cause any issues, except raise my blood pressure. It sure seems that you need to do EVERYTHING by yourself if you want it done properly.
I noticed a very small wear the guide wheels of the belt. Have you also changed them as well? Does anyone know the right name for those wheels or perhaps the oem part number?
The winter is also coming so decided to change the battery as well. Had to cut one side of the battery holder because it did not take "normal" size battry. I had 70Ah HY (original) battery. Now there's a Bosch with 74Ah. Charged it with a ctek smart charger and now it is ready to go. While the battery was out I also changed the crappy battery connector to better.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0174.jpg)
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Glad I could help. :D
I got the 1800 mm (Dayco 5PK1800) and by comparison it seemed to be the same length as the old one. A lot of items is different on the 1,6 CRDi if it's produced before 02.2008.
I haven't done anything about the guide wheels, what I could see they were ok.
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I've had some noises coming from the rear when driving over speedbumps if there is some load in the back. Under heavy load i was able to hear it while cornering to the right tightly.
I decided to check the "rear vertical stabilizer link bars". Or as we call "dog bones" (they look like a bone...). I was just going to take them out and see if they are ok or not, but I noticed that they cost only 15€ each, so I decided to add new ones with the same hassle. It's simple and easy job for anyone.
Take rear tyre off.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0178.jpg)
Remove two nuts and take the bar out.
Ols vs. new.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0180.jpg)
Add new part and tighten up the nuts. The correct torque according gds is ~50nm.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0181.jpg)
I did a short test drive, but I had nothing to put in the trunk... Hard to tell if this helped or not. The old parts were not badly worn, but the lower parts of those bars were easier to bend around. Maybe they were little worn, maybe not... Still quick and easy job. Took about 60 mins with both sides.
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:goodjob: They certainly look better :D
Thanks for the info and photos!
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Well, it seems that the rear end was not the cause of the suspension noises. The noises came worse during time. I was able to locate the noise to left side front stabilizer link bar. I got a tip from a friend to lift the whole front end up, so there would be no tension in the link bars compared to lifting one corner at a time.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0239.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0238.jpg)
Some wd-40 and two 17mm wrenches. The lower nut is too tight for socket, but for the upper I used impact driver.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0240.jpg)
I was not able to torque the lower nut in to the right tension due tight space. Upper I torqued to 110nm.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0241.jpg)
After the job I did a test drive and all extra noises disappeared. :goodjob2:
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Thanks again :goodjob:
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Just found this thread! Thanks for sharing all this sundiz!
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Just found this thread! Thanks for sharing all this sundiz!
Tack. I'm glad you like it.
I mentioned in some topic I have issues with the clear coat. Especially the bonnet is in poor condition.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_0185.jpg)
I used airbrush to spray some new clear coat over those spots where the clear coat had chipped away. Of course there were huge spots of spray mist around every spot I sprayed.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/DSC_0242.jpg)
They were like this during the whole winter. I just wanted the new clear coat to dry and harden well. Now I bought Scholl Concepts S17+ rubbing compound and polished the spray mist with polishing machine. Few hours of work and the car looks a lot better. I had approx 30-40 spots to polish.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/DSC_0248.jpg)
I think I need to buff the whole car with somekind of rubbing compound. The spots I worked got really even deep and nice red colour. The old paint looks like a bit grayish when compared to buffed spots.
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Nice work sundiz! :goodjob:
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This reminds me that I need advice on my i30cw - regarding suspension, etc..
Good pics BTW and useful info.
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3 years and 60 000km since last time I changed manual transmission oil. Last few low temp days (-20'C) of winter I had some difficulties to get reverse gear on and the transmission was a bit stiff. So the job waited for better weather. Weather was crappy (3'C and rain) but I had no better way to spend time so did the job anyway.
(http://i.imgur.com/oQHgtjZ.jpg)
Took the bottom cover out with few 10mm bolts and drained the old oil out. A lot darker than new but seemed to still run nicely. On the top left is the 17mm fill plug. On the right is the 24mm drain plug.
(http://i.imgur.com/vqxHNDf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/03o5aow.jpg)
I used massive oil syringe to fill the transmission. Oil capacity is 1.9L. I used torque wrench with the fill and drain plugs. Manual says 60-80nm so I used 70nm.
I used the same oil as before castrol multivehicle syntrans because it worked well in low temps before. Did a test drive and transmission worked really smoothly.
A week or two and the I can change summer tyres. Few thousand kms more and I can change engine oil.
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Great job sundiz.
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I love this kinda work, I could stand and watch it all day :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
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@sundiz
IF IT WAS AN AUTO 1.9L of fluid WOULD be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work . :goodjob2:
MODIFIED BY DUMB PERSON.
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I love this kinda work, I could stand and watch it all day :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob: :goodjob:
Don't torture us, We all lie under cars and dream of living in Manchester. :mrgreen:
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@sundiz
1.9L of fluid may be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work . :goodjob2:
@nzenigma , Have you had a bump to the head recently? Funny looking Auto :head_butt:
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@sundiz
1.9L of fluid may be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work . :goodjob2:
My car is manual. I believe automatic takes more oil. Last time my car was leveled and 1.9L was all it took. Now the front of my car was little bit higher than rear so I measured 1.9L oil and went with that. 1.9 is also given oil capacity in the repair manual for manual transmission.
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@sundiz
1.9L of fluid may be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work . :goodjob2:
@nzenigma , Have you had a bump to the head recently? Funny looking Auto :head_butt:
:snigger: :snigger:
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75w85 or 75w90 gl4 only.
In my opinion castrol multivehiche 75w90 gl4 is the best oil for this box on the market.
1.9l is correct value for manual.
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I used 75w90 GL4. Local stores did not even have the other one and to be honest I did not know that there is other product also. I've been happy with 75w90 performance. Especially in the low temps.
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More things to the to-do-list. Took the rear wheels of to check the brake pads and disks. Noticed that disks are worn so unevenly that I need to change new disks and pads. I'll hope the car passes MOT with those so I could have more time and warmer weather to change them.
I have used my 450nm impact driver to remove lug nuts and been really happy with it. I bought couple of months ago Makita DTD129. I don't think this has been meant to be used with this sort of heavy use, but I had to try it anyway. Even this small 160nm driver was able to remove lug nuts I torqued to 110nm 6 months ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWS0nzvxKMA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWS0nzvxKMA)
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@sundiz
IF IT WAS AN AUTO 1.9L of fluid WOULD be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work . :goodjob2:
MODIFIED BY DUMB PERSON.
OK OK :disapp: :head_knock: :head_knock:
At 4am this morning my brain fired up Duh! These Northern Hemisphere guys all have manual cars. Ive spent all week working on Australia's favourite...the Auto transmission.
I Apologise! :mrgreen:
Apart from natural stupidity, household distractions and the above, my main excuse is that I read sundiz's text but his pictures were taking so long to download, I only saw a giant syringe.
Anyway, it appears it was the weeks highlight for #*^%* Gerard. aka @tw2005 :Pout: and @Asterix :Pout: :head_butt:
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@sundiz
IF IT WAS AN AUTO 1.9L of fluid WOULD be a bit short. The trans including torque converter takes 6.6L.
get the car up to running temperature , idle in Neutral and check that the level is correct.
Good work . :goodjob2:
MODIFIED BY DUMB PERSON.
OK OK :disapp: :head_knock: :head_knock:
At 4am this morning my brain fired up Duh! These Northern Hemisphere guys all have manual cars. Ive spent all week working on Australia's favourite...the Auto transmission.
I Apologise! :mrgreen:
Apart from natural stupidity, household distractions and the above, my main excuse is that I read sundiz's text but his pictures were taking so long to download, I only saw a giant syringe.
Anyway, it appears it was the weeks highlight for #*^%* Gerard. aka @tw2005 :Pout: and @Asterix :Pout: :head_butt:
Is this the final version or still polishing this one up :lol: You definitely gave me a giggle particularly since the title had "clutch fluid" in it :whistler:
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Stay strong, my Tasman brother, don't let the bullies get you down. I didn't read the title fully either but I did note he was 'consulting the manual'. :whistler:
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Thanks Gonz ...... mate :goodjob2:
For the ex mate ...to further "polish" my response; this was MY yesterday :
Woke at 4.45am because dog thought it as Monday and wife needs coffee.
Breakfast
Muse about pending sale to an Italian.
Read club posts and attempt to respond.
Test drive completed GD with new AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, Gerard :happydance:
Plan new 2.4 meter shelf with castors for parts in shed 2.
Attend to sewing machine disaster.
Sell car to Italian. :sweating:
Vague memory of lunch.
Attend to brush cutter that is about to become a disaster.
Try to figure out if 1999 Toyota Hilux brakes can be improved; or are they at best, "that's typical mate", performance level?
Complete wheeled shelving that now weighs half a ton.
Dinner and a scotch.
Sleep until dick-head alarm goes off in brain at 4am.
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Thanks Gonz ...... mate :goodjob2:
For the ex mate ...to further "polish" my response; this was MY yesterday :
Woke at 4.45am because dog thought it as Monday and wife needs coffee.
Breakfast
Muse about pending sale to an Italian.
Read club posts and attempt to respond.
Test drive completed GD with new AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, Gerard :happydance:
Plan new 2.4 meter shelf with castors for parts in shed 2.
Attend to sewing machine disaster.
Sell car to Italian. :sweating:
Vague memory of lunch.
Attend to brush cutter that is about to become a disaster.
Try to figure out if 1999 Toyota Hilux brakes can be improved; or are they at best, "that's typical mate", performance level?
Complete wheeled shelving that now weighs half a ton.
Dinner and a scotch.
Sleep until dick-head alarm goes off in brain at 4am.
:D, seems like a fairly routine day to me. So it's the dog's fault.
Was the car Red and have an Alfa Romeo badge?
New trans? Where did you score that? Sewing machine, sounds like you got stitched up with that one.
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He wanted a red Alfa, but bought a white i30. hence.... :sweating: :sweating: :sweating:
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He wanted a red Alfa, but bought a white i30. hence.... :sweating: :sweating: :sweating:
Clever guy :lol:
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I looked the structure of the rear brake system and it seems that I need to remove one link bar or stabilizer bar to get access for the caliber bolts. Do I need to support the rear axel somehow when doing this or does it still stay there when the bar is removed. I don't want to get flying spring on my forehead.
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You pulling the rotors off?
It'll stay there, bit of a pain. A conventional ring spanner may just get in there. It will have some load and lining it back up can be fun.
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You don't need to remove the arm, just use a ring spanner like TW say. It's a bad design but you can loosen the bolt and remove the brake pad support (or whatever it's called).
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I need to change new rotors and brake pads. I looked GDS and there was also mentioned that bar, what ever it is called, needs to be taken out, but good to know I might be able do the job without removing it.
I have a second jack which I could use to adjust the hight and I have those tools which compres the springs. I just do not like working with them the as there is a lot of potential energy loaded in compressed spring.
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I need to change new rotors and brake pads. I looked GDS and there was also mentioned that bar, what ever it is called, needs to be taken out, but good to know I might be able do the job without removing it.
I have a second jack which I could use to adjust the hight and I have those tools which compres the springs. I just do not like working with them the as there is a lot of potential energy loaded in compressed spring.
you're not going to need to touch the springs and the shocks are going to limit the travel anyway.
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Have not watched this through yet, but maybe good preview.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg9x4drf1X4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eg9x4drf1X4)
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Hi,
What is GDS you are referring to? Where to get?
Paula
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Hi,
What is GDS you are referring to? Where to get?
Paula
Global Diagnostic System (GDS) , OEM diagnostic tool for Hyundai and KIA.
(https://www.epcatalogs.com/file/base/7wCEvBLSdcduAEtr+g:2FaRkCrlRBXVA8:2FvIcKcne8xQma65LpLHDP2vHKEMtQfVSBW4HC5F1f51HaxCPG4jbHMeWp67zw41EGp76j4kGhqg==/Hyundai-GDS-2009.gif)
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I knew I had to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I hoped they lasted few more months so I could do the job on my holiday. Yesterday I started to hear grinding sound from the rear right, so I knew that I need to change them as soon as possible.
Thanks to the advices given previously I knew that removing of the rear suspension bar from the hub was not necessary. I just bought 14mm spanner with a small angle on the other end. That fitted to the "hidden" bolt nicely.
(http://i.imgur.com/N4hBDXi.jpg)
Inside of the rear brake was in bad shape. No wonder the brakes did not feel as crisp as they used to.
(http://i.imgur.com/fCd7uyb.jpg)
All the brake bads had plenty of pad still left but all were more or less stuck. Had to hammer the pads out from the right side. Also the rotors were really stuck. Fortunately I was replacing them also so I did not have to be gentle with the old ones. Hammered those for 10min before getting them out.
Also noticed the on the right side the rubber around the caliber piston was damaged. I'll have to order new caliber if I don't find service kit for the caliber. The piston moved easily so it seems the caliber itself is not damaged.
(http://i.imgur.com/yCBpduq.jpg)
End result
(http://i.imgur.com/dJ8s2vA.jpg)
Made a huge imrovement to the feel of the brake pedal. There is still one more thing I need to do. I had to spin the rotating hand brake tensioner so that I was able to fit new rotors. Now the hand brake needs to be adjusted from the rotating tensioner. It was so difficult to move in the small garage so I need to do the adjustment outside as the wheel needs to be taken off for that. Perhaps I can change/fix the caliber at the same time.
At the moment car has done 123000km. I quess these were the original brakes.
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Good effort sundiz (you are a better man than me with this stuff) thanks for sharing the photos too. :goodjob:
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WoW :Shocked:, took a look at that calliper , then checked your Kms in post #1.
Your winter conditions certainly take their toll. Good work . :goodjob2:
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WoW :Shocked:, took a look at that calliper , then checked your Kms in post #1.
Your winter conditions certainly take their toll. Good work . :goodjob2:
It is mainly road dust and surface rust. There were still metal underneath it. :D But the road salt does what it does. You could get more life for the brakes if you lubricate the sliding pins of the pads and make sure the pads are moving freely. One friend had to lubricate the pads of his corolla every year to pass the MOT.
I did not feel like cleaning the caliper for looks. By just changing the parts I sneezed black stuff out of my nose rest of the day. Probably should have used some sort of face mask as the brake dust is not good for you.
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I've had plenty cars that need that treatment, so I give the i30 new glide pin lube when shifting tires and brush the grime of calipers and pads.
Pretty, shiny new rotors! Great post! I think you should be able to buy a new rubber sleve and some good silicone based grease, no need to replace the whole caliper.
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As it happens, my wife is in Helsinki at the moment. She says: " Nice town but COLD." and went out to Suomenlinna, " interesting and dry weather but COLD" .
So I get the message, by comparison, Queensland is HOT. :cool:
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It is warm now. Just came from 50km moped ride. Last week we had temps below zero and some snow... Suomenlinna is nice. Especially in summertime. Sea is still cold so now it makes the wind even worse.
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Almost 1000km since the brake job. I thought the handbrake pads were worn to fit the new rotors. I adjusted the handbrake pads. Now the brakes bite after 3 clicks from the lever.
(http://i.imgur.com/aoIAJlR.jpg)
Also changed the right side caliper as the old one had faulty seal. Did not even try to service the old one as I got new caliper for 100€.
Also changed the alternator belt. There were few cracks so it seems it was a poor quality belt. Only few years old and not so many kms driven. Also noticed that one guide pully has worn bearing. I'll have to try find new one somewhere.
Took the car to MOT and it passed without any issue. Brakes were good and brake power was almost identical on both sides :goodjob2:
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Got new guide pulley for the alternator belt. The bearing of the upper guide pulley was starting to have some play in it. Simple job. Loosened the belt, opened one torx T40 bolt and changed the pulley. Old one started to look little bit worn out.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff56/sundiz85/DSC_0383.jpg)
The gap was so tight that no torx socket or normal key would fit it. Bought a 1/4 inch wrench and used it with extension to turn a normal torx bit.
Checked also all other pulleys and noticed that the alternator pulley bearing might be also worn. I will have to check that with better time. Bad luck if the alternator is going out as the car has "only" ~125tkm on it.
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It seems photobucket made this thread useless as all my pics were on their server... I guess I need to find new host for my pics.
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It seems photobucket made this thread useless as all my pics were on their server... I guess I need to find new host for my pics.
Yes, we dislike them even more now. Imgur is heaps better and easier. Hope they don't end up doing the same thing though.. :undecided:
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Had a loose bearing in the front guide pulley. Ordered new one from germany. Took alternator belt out. Screwed old pulley out and installed new. There is just on torx t40 to hold it.
(http://i.imgur.com/N0gHmaH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/oAUtQTC.jpg)
While working with the car I decided to install Defa multicharger 1204 as the winter is coming. Cold temps, short drives and diesel engine (glow plugs) are not the best combo when thinking about the battery. Now every time I connect the oil pan heater to electric socket, the charger will charge the battery with max 4A current. If battery is full, it stops charging. Should help with the upcoming cold starts. I used to use ctek smart chargers, but the models I have are not suitable for car assembly. Still probably use them once or twice during the winter, but defa will be used daily. No extra wires or opening the bonnet, just one plug in the mask will power up the oil pan heater, indoor heater and battery charger.
(http://i.imgur.com/qxUSkvK.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/XrtYFyl.jpg)
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Thanks for that Sundiz. :goodjob:
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Little maintenance before temps drop below 0'C.
Diesel fuel filter change. Took around 30min. Could probably do it in 15-20min with pneumatic and electric tools but I was not in a hurry.
First I need to get access to the actual filter. So took the engine cover out.
(https://i.imgur.com/tbyAmPy.jpg)
Still not enough room, so I removed the turbo intake pipe.
(https://i.imgur.com/ERGWaKe.jpg)
Then just remove all 3 electrical connectors (heater, temp sens and water alarm, if I remember correctly), in and out fuel lines. After that there are 4x12mm nuts to be taken out, so you can get the whole filter assembly out of the car. Extended 12mm socket is the right tool for this job.
(https://i.imgur.com/X3aCK7t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iWUqEd4.jpg)
Then just remove the housing (2x12mm bolt).
(https://i.imgur.com/hqALTrA.jpg)
Take the water sensor out and put it back to the new filter. New filter to housing etc...
(https://i.imgur.com/YAfJQTH.jpg)
Assembly goes pretty much in reverse, but new filter must be primed before connecting return fuel line. It usually takes 30-40 pushes from the primer pump before fuel starts coming out. After that just connect the return fuel line, put turbo intake pipe back and fire it up.
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Thanks sundiz!
You forgot to mention don't have a smoke while you are doing this. :snigger:
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Thanks Sundiz! Would have needed that in spring when I needed to empty mine of water. Looks like you managed to make a lot less of a mess than I did! :)
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Thanks Sundiz! Would have needed that in spring when I needed to empty mine of water. Looks like you managed to make a lot less of a mess than I did! :)
I've been practising. I think this was my 4th time changing the filter :D For water removal you probably did not remove the filter. I think you can remove the water sensor while filter is still connecter. Just need a lot of rags for the water and diesel...
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We are excepting first snow this week, so I changed to studded tyres last weekend. Few of the lug nuts are little bit corroded. One of the nut was in such a bad shape that when I removed it with impact gun the chrome finish peeled of from 2 sides of the nut. That nut is now smaller in diameter and it almost got stuck inside the socket. Never had issues with lug nuts or bolts. Not even +20 year old. Not sure if poor quality or if the previous owner has done something to the nuts.
Called to local dealer if they had them in stock. They had, but they can keep them. When I asked how much they cost I got an answer "8,6€". Had to ask was that for a set or just one. They want almost 10€ for one nut! So went to one korean website and ordered 10 nuts for 22$. Postage was bit high for the nuts so bought also new fuel filter for next winter... Paid only 50% for the parts when compared to local dealer.
OEM steel wheel nut is 52950-17000 if someone happens to need them...
Also my key fob broke down. When I pulled the key out of the ignition the key fell of from the fob. Somehow the joint broke down. Ordered new case for the key fob from ebay.
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They're pretty pricey over there for chrome wheel nuts :Shocked: can get full set on ebay here for $30 free postage :link: 20 x Chrome Alloy Wheels Rim Nuts 12 x 1.5 to fit Mazda Toyota Honda Kia Hyundai | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20-x-Chrome-Alloy-Wheels-Rim-Nuts-12-x-1-5-to-fit-Mazda-Toyota-Honda-Kia-Hyundai/112164715348?hash=item1a1d89bb54:g:H4UAAOSwKoRZX2ZU)
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I was thinking of buying just normal lug nuts and then just some normal hubcaps. But as I found OEM nuts for a reasonable price I will be using the OEM hubcaps. Hyundai Nuts for steel rims have small lip which keeps the hubcaps in their place.
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Oh, I see what you mean :goodjob:
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Well this happened.
(http://i.imgur.com/EKd70Fs.jpg)
Finally got the new key fob I ordered from the UK. Paid only 9£. Old case was in good shape so I did not want to destroy it by melting the transponder out from the case (as adviced in some youtube video). So I took the hinge from the new key and just replaced that. Unfortunately I had to use a file to enlarge the lockpin groove on the actual key. Took some time but now I have a working key. And I did not need to risk destroying the transponder as I used the old case.
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:agoodjob:
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You Reduced de Pixels. :goodjob2:
(https://i.imgur.com/VYNPCnp.jpg)
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I was cleaning and came up with the wheel nut I had to replace some time ago. 2 chrome/nickel surfaces came off while changing the tyres. This is what 9 years in winter and salt may do to nuts (2 annual tyre changes).
(http://i.imgur.com/qHOy7zv.jpg)
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:disapp:
I spent one winter in Alberta. My nuts have never been the same since then. :whistler:
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For some reason, my handbrake loosens over time. I checked the brake pads and they were adjusted as they should. It seems that the wires gets loose from the handle. I have tighten the wires 4 times now. Today I added nyloc nut to the tensioner. Hope it stays tight now.
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For some reason, my handbrake loosens over time. I checked the brake pads and they were adjusted as they should. It seems that the wires gets loose from the handle. I have tighten the wires 4 times now. Today I added nyloc nut to the tensioner. Hope it stays tight now.
Sounds like the cables/wires are starting to stretch, you need new ones asap.
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Have you had issues with wires? I was guessing the tensioner might be the reason. The tensioner nut can be turned with fingers. It looked like it might come loose with use. I'll have to see how it starts behaving now. New wires would be pain in the butt to change. Especially now with -25'C temps.
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Have you had issues with wires? I was guessing the tensioner might be the reason. The tensioner nut can be turned with fingers. It looked like it might come loose with use. I'll have to see how it starts behaving now. New wires would be pain in the butt to change. Especially now with -25'C temps.
Only wire problem was on my earlier Primera, but on that one I had to change the handbrake cables when it was -6ºC and I don't have a garage.... :cold:
The i30 handbrake have never failed... :goodjob2:
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Several years I have noticed that in extreme cold temps the oil pan heater does not help the car start at all. Actually the starting is worse when oil is heated. I still do it wishing warm oil would help with engine wear. Cold oil is not good lubricant. But this was the worst I have experienced. Real temp was -25'c. Oil pan heater might have heated the temp sensor also, or it may not be very accurate in low temps. Still having original glow plugs, but I think I need the change them in the summer. Now when temps are over -20'c I haven't had starts like this.
:link: Hyundai i30 1.6crdi cold start - YouTube (https://youtu.be/iipvW5QOcHQ)
At least the battery seems to be in good condition :evil:
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Last time I tried to change new front brakes, it was -26'c. It was too cold to be handling metal parts. Today it was around 0'c and the sun was shining. Did everything pretty much as they say in the manual: :link: Etujarru..pdf - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N2T0TTsOpu54UmDSH20Ka_Hm3oyewUcI/view?usp=drivesdk)
Old discs and pads were at minimum thickness. One pad had even a part missing. No wonder the brakes seemed little underpowered. I believe I drove 90tkm with these ones.
(http://i.imgur.com/jcs4QgW.jpg)
New rotors and pads made a quite a difference. Now the car feels like it stops when I want.
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Last time I tried to change new front brakes, it was -26'c. It was too cold to be handling metal parts. Today it was around 0'c and the sun was shining. Did everything pretty much as they say in the manual: :link: Etujarru..pdf - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N2T0TTsOpu54UmDSH20Ka_Hm3oyewUcI/view?usp=drivesdk)
Old discs and pads were at minimum thickness. One pad had even a part missing. No wonder the brakes seemed little underpowered. I believe I drove 90tkm with these ones.
(http://i.imgur.com/jcs4QgW.jpg)
New rotors and pads made a quite a difference. Now the car feels like it stops when I want.
decent sized lip worn in that rotor for sure
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I knew I had some issues with my glow plugs. At -18'C the engine really struggled to fire up. Even at 0'C I could smell diesel near the exhaust. At positive degrees never had issues with starting. Finally I decided to change the plugs. I tried to measure them before removing but was not able to get any reasonable resistances from the plugs.
I saw NGK quide how to remove a glow plug. They recommended using torque wrench with max 40nm while opening. If they don't come out with that, put penetrating oil and try again after one week. I put my wrench at 30nm and all came out with ease. My engine was still warm.
Measured all plugs when they were out and noticed that all were dead. Even connected them straight to battery with starter cables but nothing happened. No glow. All were dead. I was surprised how well the engine had started without any working plug... Measured also the glow plug power line, which worked flawlessy. Glow plugs seemed to be the reason for poor winter starting.
Fitted new ones (oem yura brand). Torqued them to 15nm as the manual says (15-20nm). Doesn't seem to be very good plugs, but they were cheap. Paid only 60€ for 4. Bosch would have been 120€. My car is now at 144tkm and all plugs were original from the factory. Now I just need to wait winter to see how new plugs work. Now it is too hot so glow plugs are not needed. If the issues continue next winter, I will get some other brand plugs. Or a gasoline car...
One new vs 4 old ones.
(http://i.imgur.com/xxRVq0P.jpg)
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:drinks: for that sundiz :goodjob:
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Continued playing with the car today. Changed engine oil, washed and vacuumed it. I remembered some discussion about glow plugs and how they stay on even the engine has started. So I wanted to see it myself. Good to test with new working plugs. I woke up early while it still was a bit colder (8'C). I put my current clamp over the powerline which feeds current to the glowplug rail. After start it was still feeding 35 amps to the glowplugs. After about 2-3 minutes the glow relay shut down and the glow current went to 0 amps. I was able to hear the difference in the idle when that happened. Makes sense as 35 amps will create some load for the alternator...
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I had to drive through a roundabout with bit more speed than usual. I heard this grinding metallic noise. Went to a near by empty parking lot to do more tests. Definately hear the noise when driving fast and turning heavily on the left. Right turns made no noise. Thought there might be small rock between the pads. Opened the front brakes, but found nothing unusual. Pads and rotors were in good shape. I changed them few months ago. After brake check the noise is still there. I think this is the first time I actually need to take the car to dealership service. I assume it might be the bearing, allthough there were no play when I tried shaking the wheel when front was lifted up. Or it might be the cv joint. The noise comes when front right tyre is under stress. Nevertheless I don't have the tools, time or space to do more detailed inspection. Just when I had saved the money for new windshield. I guess the new glass has to wait. Car has currently 147tkm.
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hard to say, clearance between brake shield and rotor ok?
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Clearance was fine. If front axel the shield is fairly small when compared to rear axel. Also I did not see any scrape marks on the disk. The wear indicator on the pad had not any marks and should not be able to touch the disk as it is almost brand new pad. Also rotated the disk when at full left turn, but did not see the cause. Of course there was no load on that corner. Noise only comes at higher load/speeds. It sounds metallic, almost brake disky noise, but I just can't figure out what causes it.
Maybe I shoud try to find my action cam. Stick it to front fender and go for a spin.
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Got my car back from the dealership. Cost was "only" 130€. They found that metal cover/shield had come loose from lower ball joint. That made contact to the brake disc in corners. Personally I did not even knew there was such thing. They said it was a bit tricky to find out and took some time. Neverteless I'm happy the car is ok to drive and does not make any noise.
I must admit this was highest hour charge I've ever heard/paid. 107€/hour. I think I shoud put up own shop with that kind of rates. Usually paid 50-70€ per hour...
They also found that left steering ball joint is going to fail "soon" and made an offer to change it. 118€ for parts and 220€ for labour ( actual change and wheel alingment). Just checked that I can get the same parts from koraps for 17$ + shipping + customs/VAT. I guess I'll be ordering the parts and change it myself and take the car to alingment after that. Alingment is only around 100€. I should save about 200€ doing dirty work myself.
Damn those parts are expensive here...
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Those are the parts they want to change: 565402H000 and 577221G000.
:link: inner ball joint.JPG - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1zI-cMlvaENS25QX2wyUlJfSzhnR1Bxei13dE1iZ0RKVmhJ/view?usp=drivesdk)
I think I need to study GDS. Looks like it might be nasty if going DIY .
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Got my car back from the dealership. Cost was "only" 130€. They found that metal cover/shield had come loose from lower ball joint. That made contact to the brake disc in corners. Personally I did not even knew there was such thing. They said it was a bit tricky to find out and took some time. Neverteless I'm happy the car is ok to drive and does not make any noise.
I must admit this was highest hour charge I've ever heard/paid. 107€/hour. I think I shoud put up own shop with that kind of rates. Usually paid 50-70€ per hour...
They also found that left steering ball joint is going to fail "soon" and made an offer to change it. 118€ for parts and 220€ for labour ( actual change and wheel alingment). Just checked that I can get the same parts from koraps for 17$ + shipping + customs/VAT. I guess I'll be ordering the parts and change it myself and take the car to alingment after that. Alingment is only around 100€. I should save about 200€ doing dirty work myself.
Damn those parts are expensive here...
Damn, I was close.
We don't have those shields on ours and there's 2 versions of ball joints and steering knuckles. One is mounted by 2 bolts, the other a very large single nut I believe. The only adjustment in alignment is toe for these cars unless you have cam bolts installed.
I tried replacing what I call tie-rods once on a car with the rack in, bit of a fail. Diffiiculty doing the shaft tight enough and peening the lock washer. I had to take it somewhere to get it right as it was not secure.
To get that rack out, you will be undoing and dropping the subframe to gain clearance. If you are then if the sway bar bushes have not been changed then get a pair because it's thesame amount of work to do them. may as well.
You'll also be disconnecting the steering shaft. It may or may not need SAS recentred. If it all goes back in the same place(shaft splines) then it should be fine.
(https://hyundai.7zap.com/ImgsWatermark/Imgs/Cats/KEURPJD0/5051711.png)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HjcAAOSwLjxadgAe/s-l640.jpg)
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I was assuming that dropping the subframe is not mandatory. Eventhough the GDS clearly says you need to drop it to service inner tie rods. Assumption is just based on the fact that they charge 85€ for the change. I don't think you could get all that work with only 85€.
I think I may have to check the tie rod situation next weekend. Also check if there is enough space to do it without dropping the subframe. If it is mandatory to drop it, then it is job for a mechanic.
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I was assuming that dropping the subframe is not mandatory. Eventhough the GDS clearly says you need to drop it to service inner tie rods. Assumption is just based on the fact that they charge 85€ for the change. I don't think you could get all that work with only 85€.
I think I may have to check the tie rod situation next weekend. Also check if there is enough space to do it without dropping the subframe. If it is mandatory to drop it, then it is job for a mechanic.
something's not adding up. Don't know. I would think it would be awkward. labour charge seems light. I'm not convinced it's failing I reckon you'd have a good feel on it.
anyway, maybe a 2nd opinion or a suspension specialist.
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@sundiz Glad it is fixed.. Pity about the highway robbery! Don't you hate being ripped off! I do! :crazy1: :evil:
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I jacked the front up and had a wrestling match with the left tyre. After a while I was able to create a small knock. Im gonna ask few shop what the charge for whole left tie rod (inner and outer) + wheel alingment. If the prices are more reasonable than with hy, I'm going for it. If not, then it is koraps +DIY. Inner ones looked to be out enough so you should be able to access them without dropping the subframe. Especially with inner tie rod removal tool. Im gonna change the outer tie rod also at the same time. With my luck it would break after the alingment, if I only fixed the broken inner tie rod.
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Does anyone have the pictures from the first post? It looks like they are all gone :confused:
I need to change my EGR valve and are very interested in the pictures.
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All lost because of the photobuckets new policies.
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Maybe this will be your fallback...
:link: change egr valve hyundai i30 - Google Search (https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=1242&bih=585&tbm=vid&ei=cL9vW82EN8ez8QXF3LiQBA&q=change+egr+valve+hyundai+i30&oq=change+egr+valve+hyundai+i30&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.0.12564.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1c..64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.SjEEmXD7eqY)
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I had some issues with the parking brake for some time. It got loose even I adjusted the brake shoes and cables several times. Decided to get new shoes as right rear wheel did not work well at all. Found out that the shoes were worn out uneven. After removing the shoes I noticed that the metallic link between the cable and the brakeshoes was completely stuck. Had to remove it and place it to workbench and hammer it loose. 5 min of hammering and half can of wd40 made the link finally opened up. I guess salt and dirt had made it rusty and crusty. Cleaned with a metal brush and lubricated it with brake grease. Works now like a charm. Did same service to left side link. It was tight, but still moved. Now the rear wheels lock on tarmac. Took the car to the MOT and there were no difference between left and right side. It was such a dirty job and I did not want to get that stuff on my phone, so unfortunately no photos. It took 3 hours with the right side to figure best methods for the work. After that it was easy to do the left side. That took only 1,5 hours from start to end.
Also got a new windscreen. It feels like the traffic is now in HD. 150tkm and 10 years was enough for the old glass.
Still need coolant and brake fluid change. Also new battery for the winter would be good. Current battery is 7 years old. Might also try to change the powersteering bushing. I think there is some play in it. After that I should have care free motoring for some time. Until something new comes up...
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Interesting stuff sundiz. Thanks for that. Your climate and road salting is hard on cars! We don't know how lucky we are! :undecided:
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Thanks Sundiz....always great to read your posts...
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Took some lower parts of the dash out and looked more about the power steering. There is a really small play, but for me it feels like it is in the joint. I snug all nuts and bolts, but it is still there. For now I'll leave it as it is. If it gets worse, I'll do some more research.
Changed brake & clutch fluid. Fairly new brakes and new fluid made a noticeable improvement in the feel of the brake pedal. Also changed the coolant.
The hand brake lever in the brake drum (mentioned in previous post) in my car is part number 58257-1H000. Only costs 4.6$ from Korea. If someone is going to fix their hand brake, I would recommend getting also new levers. Especially if you drive in salty and dirty conditions.
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Took some lower parts of the dash out and looked more about the power steering. There is a really small play, but for me it feels like it is in the joint. I snug all nuts and bolts, but it is still there. For now I'll leave it as it is. If it gets worse, I'll do some more research.
Changed brake & clutch fluid. Fairly new brakes and new fluid made a noticeable improvement in the feel of the brake pedal. Also changed the coolant.
The hand brake lever in the brake drum (mentioned in previous post) in my car is part number 58257-1H000. Only costs 4.6$ from Korea. If someone is going to fix their hand brake, I would recommend getting also new levers. Especially if you drive in salty and dirty conditions.
Is it clunking in normal use or when you rock the steering back and forth quickly when parked?
Keep in mind that plastic coupler bush as it starts to deteriorate it will clunk in that section and when completely destroyed it'll be a distinctive knock and have play as it was in my most recent case.
(https://preview.ibb.co/nBUbrz/20180922_095706.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b0BpBz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/fEt2Wz/20180922_095710.jpg) (https://ibb.co/m16NWz)
(https://preview.ibb.co/jj0zBz/20180922_095740.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dp4gPK)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kSh1PK/20180922_095745.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nNRT4K)
aug 2012, 99000km, factory built in 2011 i30CW. it was goo just about
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:wss:
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I can only hear it when car is parked and engine is off and wiggle the steering wheel from side to side. When driving, I don't hear or feel any play. When I grabbed the lower part of powersteering shaft and turned the steering wheel I felt like the shaft and the steering wheel were solid. I was not able to feel any play in the movement of the shaft and wheel. When I grab the joint near the floor and turn the steering wheel I can feel a small play. One other guy came to look it while I was working with the car. He also said that he can't find any play in the actual powersteering shaft but felt the small knock when he hold the joint near the floor.
The small clunk has been there for a while and it has not gotten any worse. Nothing like those videos on youtube where they change the bushing.
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One other guy came to look it while I was working with the car. He also said that he can't find any play in the actual powersteering shaft but felt the small knock when he hold the joint near the floor.
Thats the trap for the uninitiated. Eventually you do the bush and cure the problem.
if its that minor at the moment leave it. Experience tells me that if the steering bush is starting to break down it will destroy itself over the following 6-12 months.
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I'll have to keep my eye on it for now. Unfortunately the temps dropped down and my garage is too small to keep door fully opened. I'll hope it lasts till spring. It is pain in the butt work outside when temps are near freezing or below... Once changed the fuel pump to my old merc in -25'C. That was brutal...
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Mate, I think enthusiasm is taking over practicality here. :cool:
At a guess, I am the only member who has ever removed and replaced a sub-frame, albeit on an FD crdi. :goodjob2:
To do it without without using an engine hoist is daunting.
I needed to replace a damaged frame and considered leaving the rack on the car; but it was so hard to get at, I left it attached to the frame and removed it when frame was on the ground.
I think you mentioned that a mechanic claims a tie rod is nearing extinction?? Is that the play you are feeling?
A small amount of play is acceptable.
Yesterday, I worked on an Isuzu ute that had excess play in the rack. That translated to 5mm play = toe in/out on the tyre. But, the ute had 350,000 km on the clock!! I still didn't consider it dangerous, a major drama, nor worth the effort of repair.
Enjoy the snow. :evil:
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The tie rod was changed at local mechanic. Took the car to MOT and the inspector said that the chassis seems to be in good condition. I'll have toto wait next paycheck and get a new battery. Not gonna take a risk with my 7 year old battery. Especially now when I have working glowplugs draining current. :)
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The tie rod was changed at local mechanic. Took the car to MOT and the inspector said that the chassis seems to be in good condition. I'll have toto wait next paycheck and get a new battery. Not gonna take a risk with my 7 year old battery. Especially now when I have working glowplugs draining current. :)
7 years is excellent for your harsh environment. :goodjob2:
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:wss:
The tie rod was changed at local mechanic. Took the car to MOT and the inspector said that the chassis seems to be in good condition. I'll have toto wait next paycheck and get a new battery. Not gonna take a risk with my 7 year old battery. Especially now when I have working glowplugs draining current. :)
7 years is excellent for your harsh environment. :goodjob2:
:wss:
New battery would be my priority too :goodjob2:
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I think my smartchargers have earned their prices in battery prices. After getting those, batteries in family cars have been in much better condition. I usually charge the battery with a smartcharger every 2-3 months. During winter every month. I also use one or two times a year "recond" charge which they claim to help preventing and removing sulfur build up from the battery plates. I also have fixed smartcharger in my car. Every time I plug my car to electricity for preheating it charges the battery at the same time. Still 7 years is respectful age. I still have the 10 year old OEM battery as a backup in my garage. Still works, but maybe not suited for every day use.
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A whole different world up there.
Must admit the winter temps here ( night = 12 deg C) have killed two of my batteries this year.
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A whole different world up there.
Must admit the winter temps here ( night = 12 deg C) have killed two of my batteries this year.
12 degrees, :sweating: that cold.
Sure it was not ol mate?
(https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/384250_f520.jpg)
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Having this i30 has been a bit boring for the most of the time. I had to fix my previous cars more often when compared to this one. Finally got something to do...
Unfortunately for me the necessary fixes usually come up during winter time. It is not pleasant to fix car when it is -20*C outside. Luckily I had a semi heated garage in use where the temperature was at least above freezing.
I've heard some weird noises from the engine bay after cold starts, but they went away as soon as the engine reached operating temperature. Last week this metallic ticking sound did not go away even when the engine heated up. Noise came somewhere around the alternator belt. Took the belt out and started checking all the equipment. Found out that the belt tensioner had a loose bearing. Installed new one but the noise was still there. Installed new belt pulleys. Noise was still there...
I went and got a steroscope. Started to listen engine and alternator. Found out that the alternator was the one making that noise. After I got the alternator out I think the reason was pretty obvious. Bearing was totally destroyed.
Alternator (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2JEhP0szGk)
While I was working there, I decided to change the water pump also. It was pain in the butt, to get that out. Only about 10cm space to get 11cm part out... With busted up knuckles I was able to get it out and get new in. The pump was OK, but the seals had seen better days. I would guess in some near future they would have failed.
Now I have new alternator, water pump, belt and belt tensioner. I don't think my engine has ever been this quiet :D
Also we got some cold temps today. It was -25*C when I left work. Cold start videos are a bit boring as I got new glow plugs and new battery for this winter. I must say these "modern" diesels start pretty well in cold temps. 2008 car with 158 tkm.
Cold start (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FvhPZewG_N4)
Unfortunately I was not able to take any pics as my hands were dirty and the lights were poor. But nothing special in the work. Just remove some bolts, take the part out, put new part in and try to put same amount of bolts back...
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Just curious if you checked the clutch pulley and how that was .
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They pulley seemed to be well connected to the alternator axel. The whole axel seemed to move. Also the "fan plate" which is inside the alternator close to the pulley was somehow damaged. It had loosen from the axel and did not rotate properly when turning the axel.
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The inner fan would be explained by worn out clutch pulley, but there were noticetable movement in the whole axel. Could it be that the clutch pulley was broken and damaged the axel? Unfortunately I don't have the old alternator as I had to return it to get my deposit back.
I saw an interesting video from youtube, where they said that the clutch pulleys in some wvs and audis tend to fail after 60-80 000 miles. I'll have to keep that in mind if I still have this car for another 100tkm. :D
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Picked up sunglasses from the car and started to wonder why blinkers do not work when trying to lock the doors. The rear door actuators seems to be faulty. Again. These OEM actuators lasted almost a year... For some reason they do not work in cold temps. Crappy desing I quess. I'll hope they start working at least somehow in the spring. I do not feel like spending 100€ for new ones if the life expentacy is around one year.
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Picked up sunglasses from the car and started to wonder why blinkers do not work when trying to lock the doors. The rear door actuators seems to be faulty. Again. These OEM actuators lasted almost a year... For some reason they do not work in cold temps. Crappy desing I quess. I'll hope they start working at least somehow in the spring. I do not feel like spending 100€ for new ones if the life expentacy is around one year.
Not good! :disapp: