i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => GENERAL => Topic started by: ajp3830 on March 26, 2020, 08:38:54
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Hello everyone.
Unfortunately our 2010 i30 diesel was the victim of a low impact crash. Area of damage is drivers side front headlight and bumper area.
I have since removed the bumper and right hand side fender/guard.
Having read a previous informative post here on FD front rail extenders I examined ours to find damage to both of ours and as a result the damaged
radiator support panel is crushed and is requiring replacement.
Looking at the subframe extender it looks like the extender and the main subframe are both slightly damaged where they bolt together.
Q.Would I be able to simply hammer(sledge hammer) them to straighten them out. I'm thinking maybe. the damaged side extender is approx 12mm out of alignment.
Less so on the opposite non damaged side.
Also as a second issue, Im wondering if anyone has any detailed information on DIY replacement of the plastic radiator housing panel.
Looks as though its all bolted together. I am worried about upsetting airbag sensors etc. Unfortunately I could not find anthing i30 specific on yo8utube.
Any feedback much appreciated.
AJP
(https://i.ibb.co/vLH527w/received-613036892873338.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/sgRhCHR/received-629775584535286-Copy.jpg) (https://imgbb.com/)
(https://i.ibb.co/pf3Y072/W-7771912-0-Copy.jpg) (https://ibb.co/R3CRvF2)
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Hi Mate,
Sorry to hear about your ding.
I can't really help with your question but if you click on the "Click here to add an image to your post" you can easily add bigger clearer photos to your post.
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I have a similar model but I'm having trouble interpreting your shots. Can you add one panned out a bit for context?
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Can see flanges are twisted. Extensions are relatively cheap. 12mm out at end of extension is only a mm few where bolted together.
As for sensors ? :undecided:
There a couple of guys with heaps of experience in doing repairs.
Best wait for them for their expertise.
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I have a similar model but I'm having trouble interpreting your shots. Can you add one panned out a bit for context?
@ajp3830 no need to post more shots. Its fairly obvious and easy DIY.
No doubt you have bumper / grill off car. If not do so. Disconnect battery, Remove the black reo bar . To do a cheap bit of work to straighten extenders get a 2metre length of pipe, Slide it into extender and kick it sideways. :cool:
But its easier to buy extensions from the wreckers, you probably need a new reo bar too.
The radiator support frame unbolts complete, You can get a new one and reo bar from Panel house or Stirling parts.
The loom for rad fan, horn and airbag sensors is unplug/ plug in.
The rad and air condensor can carefully be left hanging while you change the frame.
Only reconnect battery after all is back in place
The chassis rail ends may need at tap to get the flange back in line with new extenders and reo bar.
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There's one !
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Not sure how to save space uploading pics. I would have liked a nice straight line.
Regards
AJP
(https://i.ibb.co/vLH527w/received-613036892873338.jpg)(https://i.ibb.co/sgRhCHR/received-629775584535286-Copy.jpg)(https://i.ibb.co/VJPYqgq/received-887334338362729-Copy.jpg)(https://i.ibb.co/h9PXBVq/W-7771912-0-Copy-4.jpg)
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I have a similar model but I'm having trouble interpreting your shots. Can you add one panned out a bit for context?
@ajp3830 no need to post more shots. Its fairly obvious and easy DIY.
No doubt you have bumper / grill off car. If not do so. Disconnect battery, Remove the black reo bar . To do a cheap bit of work to straighten extenders get a 2metre length of pipe, Slide it into extender and kick it sideways. :cool:
But its easier to buy extensions from the wreckers, you probably need a new reo bar too.
The radiator support frame unbolts complete, You can get a new one and reo bar from Panel house or Stirling parts.
The loom for rad fan, horn and airbag sensors is unplug/ plug in.
The rad and air condensor can carefully be left hanging while you change the frame.
Only reconnect battery after all is back in place
The chassis rail ends may need at tap to get the flange back in line with new extenders and reo bar.
Thanks guys
I will put an order in for parts now.
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I can't zoom in on the rail , how bent id the extender ? Or is the the rail itself? Looks minor.
The rad support is very straight forward, you'll need to remove all that plastic liner and under tray, get that out of the way. Remove that cross bar, then you'll need to detach or unclip all harnesses aand cable runs hanging off the rad support, there's abs sensors, horns, maybe outside air sensor, bonnet latch. Pretty much as you see it.
Nothing welded, all bolt including the rail extensions which you should find used easy enough.
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There's another one :goodjob:
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@ajp3830
Please don't post multiple threads about the same thing. I have merged these two. If you don't get a quick response please be patient. In this case it looks like a good response. Thanks Gary and Gerard.
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I can't zoom in on the rail , how bent id the extender ? Or is the the rail itself? Looks minor.
The rad support is very straight forward, you'll need to remove all that plastic liner and under tray, get that out of the way. Remove that cross bar, then you'll need to detach or unclip all harnesses aand cable runs hanging off the rad support, there's abs sensors, horns, maybe outside air sensor, bonnet latch. Pretty much as you see it.
Nothing welded, all bolt including the rail extensions which you should find used easy enough.
Thanks mate. Appreciate your and others comments.
Hopefully do this early next week after I purchase rad support.
I'm thinking of leaving radiator hanging in place as mentioned above and inserting replacement rad support.
Slight bending of member extensions but will probably try and bend straight. I will check around wreckers anyway.
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Hi everyone.
Well here I am a month later after a few delays and waiting for parts etc.
I am now in the process of putting everything together. Hopefully
I've taken lots of "before: photos to help with my reassembly
Naturally in all areas except with regards to the bolts etc which support the "front reinforcement bar" located behind the plastic bumper.
By memory on disassembly there was only a bolt holding the drivers side and a 6mm or less holding the passenger side. I would imagine this bar would require
serious mounting support.
Anyway I have replaced the reinforcement bar as I believe it was fitted. (car has previously been in minor prangs had and visit to panel beaters shop.
I believe it may have been put back on by the first year apprentice in his first day on the job)
have searched google to no avail.
Therefore my question is would any of you knowable People out their be able to give me any info regarding mounting bolts required each side.
When you look at my pics you will see that the bar brackets pass over he bolt heads as I found it. Doesn't seem right to me
Appreciate any help
(https://i.ibb.co/3ywR91g/IMG20200423161156-Copy-2.jpg)(https://i.ibb.co/tsQF1wp/IMG20200423161315-Copy-2.jpg)
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There should be 3 or 4 bolts on both sides that line up with the corresponding female sockets on LH and RH rail extensions.
The 10mm 'studs' dont do anything now, they were part of the assembly line process.
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There should be 3 or 4 bolts on both sides that line up with the corresponding female sockets on LH and RH rail extensions.
The 10mm 'studs' dont do anything now, they were part of the assembly line process.
Ok thanks .
Looks like my reinforcement bar hasn't been bolted on properly for years,
I will make sure that 3 bolts with large washers support :'( each side .
Thank you and to others for previous help
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Finally the i30 is back on the road.
Only one problem.
The ESP off light comes on after a minute or so.
Ive since checked tyre pressures, all lights ie brakes , indicators , high and low beam etc .
Everything electrical is working ok.
I have turned steering lock to both extremes numerous occasions to check for any resets.
I believe the worse case scenario requires a steering column replacement.
This will not be happening due cost. I guess I can live without ESP.
I intend taking car to a workshop to check codes regards the ESP.
Q. Would any of our resident experts suggest anything else worth checking.
Hopefully there are wheel sensors other than the steering column. I have no idea
Thanks for your previous support.
ajp
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Brake switch, recalibrate steering angle sensor, faulty column(angle sensor)
Has the barke switch ever been replaced under recall?
I'd scan for codes too first.
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Brake switch, recalibrate steering angle sensor, faulty column(angle sensor)
Has the barke switch ever been replaced under recall?
I'd scan for codes too first.
No brake switch never replaced.
Im now thinking the unthinkable.
Maybe Im better off taking car to Hyundai dealership workshop for a answer
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Maybe Im better off taking car to Hyundai dealership workshop for a answer
NO :crazy1:
are you insane? Never go near one.
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Having recovered, I read tw above. Agree that it could be brake switch. Just get wife to check if its working each time you tap brake pedal
Steering column will be ok, at worse case, the $5 bush may need replacing some time. But under circumstance, get a PRIVATE workshop to centre steering. Just takes a few minutes.
Brake switch is easy DIY if you want to get one off Ebay
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Having recovered, I read tw above. Agree that it could be brake switch. Just get wife to check if its working each time you tap brake pedal
Steering column will be ok, at worse case, the $5 bush may need replacing some time. But under circumstance, get a PRIVATE workshop to centre steering. Just takes a few minutes.
Brake switch is easy DIY if you want to get one off Ebay
Yes I did have an insane moment of madness. I usually avoid the dealerships
Bush was replaced 2 years ago .
Brake lights working ok, therefore brake switch would be fine.
ok so off to a private workshop it is.
Thankyou
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Having recovered, I read tw above. Agree that it could be brake switch. Just get wife to check if its working each time you tap brake pedal
Steering column will be ok, at worse case, the $5 bush may need replacing some time. But under circumstance, get a PRIVATE workshop to centre steering. Just takes a few minutes.
Brake switch is easy DIY if you want to get one off Ebay
Yes I did have an insane moment of madness. I usually avoid the dealerships
Bush was replaced 2 years ago .
Brake lights working ok, therefore brake switch would be fine.
ok so off to a private workshop it is.
Thankyou
:rofl:
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Having recovered, I read tw above. Agree that it could be brake switch. Just get wife to check if its working each time you tap brake pedal
Steering column will be ok, at worse case, the $5 bush may need replacing some time. But under circumstance, get a PRIVATE workshop to centre steering. Just takes a few minutes.
Brake switch is easy DIY if you want to get one off Ebay
If it's never been replaced under the service campaign I expect it is still free and valid for service. Worth considering, dealer would be able to determine looking up your VIN.