i30 Owners Club
THE GARAGE (SERVICE, MAINTENANCE & REPAIR) => PETROL => Topic started by: smashbie on May 20, 2020, 07:42:19
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Hi all,
I have an 09 SX i30. Wanted to confirm what the correct wheel nut torque is when changing wheels.
They are 195/65/R15 wheels.
I've looked in the manual and it says 9~11 kg.m. However not quite sure what torque setting to set my torque wrench to? Is it 100nm?
Cheers.
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:link: Torque Conversion - FREE Unit Converter (http://www.unitconversion.org/unit_converter/torque.html)
says 10 = 98, so YES!
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Thanks!
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Comment:
I have never, in 50 years, needed to use a torque wrench to tighten a wheel nut.
Question:
Given the chance of a roadside puncture;
if you used a torque wrench to 100 Nm / 70 ft lb, can you or your spouse undo the wheel nuts using the wrench supplied by Hyundai?
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Comment:
I have never, in 50 years, needed to use a torque wrench to tighten a wheel nut.
Question:
Given the chance of a roadside puncture;
if you used a torque wrench to 100 Nm / 70 ft lb, can you or your spouse undo the wheel nuts using the wrench supplied by Hyundai?
^
This. :goodjob:
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Really frustrating.
So I jacked up the front drivers tyre, started taking the wheel nuts off and the second one started feeling quite tight. I thought oh maybe its been put on a little tight, so I forced it a bit and the metal rod holding the wheel nut snapped!
I tried at least one or two others and they were very tight too so i re-tightened and left it.
My local mechanic was the one who replaced my front wheels (new tyres), but not sure if I can blame them or they've just seized.
Anyway I called them and booked in the car for Monday. They reckon it should be safe to drive it to them with 4 nuts holding the tyre.
Quote was around $200... I was so angry with myself for snapping it.
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I carry a torque wrench around in my car, for this very reason! I normally tighten up to 110Nm. The usual culprits are tyre dealers that use pneumatic impact wrenches that over-tighten the wheel nuts. When I had a lease car with a maintenance contract, the fitters used a torque wrench, but most of cars in the bay didn't get this treatment. I had a Ford where the locking wheel nut key broke and they all had to be replaced.
As long as they've been torqued up properly, I can usually get them off with the Hyundai supplied tool, but because the lever is angled, if you're not careful (like standing on it) the force you apply can make the key slip off at an angle, which is how I managed to break one. Fortunately, I still had the slip of paper with the key code on, and was able to order one direct from McGard at a very reasonable price.
I once took a car for test drive, forgetting I hadn't taken the wheel nut key off. Fortunately, I'd only made a 2-mile round trip so I had to re-trace my steps looking for it. I found it in the gutter about 1/2 mile away.
When it comes to the actual stud shearing off, I think that is probably due to corrosion making the nut seize on the stud, and/or the nut being over-tightened and weakening the stud, or possibly the nut had a crossed thread when it was last put on. I take the wheels off at least once every 6 months to check the brakes & suspension joints, wash down the insides of the wheels, rotate the tyres to even out wear, and make sure the wheels will actually come off the hubs. I then clean any rust off the wheel studs with a wire brush, and clean up the mating surfaces of the hubs and wheels so they will come off cleanly next time.
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_ I jacked up the front drivers tyre, started taking the wheel nuts off and the second one started feeling quite tight. I thought oh maybe its been put on a little tight, so I forced it a bit and the metal STUD holding the wheel nut snapped!
:crazy1: :crazy1:
The usual culprits are tyre dealers that use pneumatic impact wrenches that over-tighten the wheel nuts :goodjob2: .
Forget the corrosion ; impact guns set far too high are the problem. Of course there is always some nob who thinks foot-pound and NM are the same measurement. The gun is a fast way to spin the nuts up, but a bar and socket, or for me a four way brace, finishes the job.
Between Surferdude and myself we have about 100 years experience in wheel changes. We dont need a torque wrench to tell us the bloody obvious; that a wheel nut is tight enough. What did real-mankind do before the torque-wrench came along to think for him? :workitout:
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My local mechanic was the one who replaced my front wheels (new tyres), but not sure if I can blame them or they've just seized.
Anyway I called them and booked in the car for Monday. They reckon it should be safe to drive it to them with 4 nuts holding the tyre.
Quote was around $200... I was so angry with myself for snapping it.
Here's the rub. :crazy2: Mechanic has probably stuffed up all wheels he worked on. As you are in Oz, not the UK, the corrosion theory does not hold up.
Finally , there IS a use for your torque wrench. Test an untouched wheel nut by applying torque ( tightening) at stages increased by 5Nm until the nut moves. You then have mechanic's applied rate.
This may save you $200 and get you 10 new studs.
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I carry a torque wrench around in my car, for this very reason! I normally tighten up to 110Nm. The usual culprits are tyre dealers that use pneumatic impact wrenches that over-tighten the wheel nuts. When I had a lease car with a maintenance contract, the fitters used a torque wrench, but most of cars in the bay didn't get this treatment. I had a Ford where the locking wheel nut key broke and they all had to be replaced.
As long as they've been torqued up properly, I can usually get them off with the Hyundai supplied tool, but because the lever is angled, if you're not careful (like standing on it) the force you apply can make the key slip off at an angle, which is how I managed to break one. Fortunately, I still had the slip of paper with the key code on, and was able to order one direct from McGard at a very reasonable price.
I once took a car for test drive, forgetting I hadn't taken the wheel nut key off. Fortunately, I'd only made a 2-mile round trip so I had to re-trace my steps looking for it. I found it in the gutter about 1/2 mile away.
When it comes to the actual stud shearing off, I think that is probably due to corrosion making the nut seize on the stud, and/or the nut being over-tightened and weakening the stud, or possibly the nut had a crossed thread when it was last put on. I take the wheels off at least once every 6 months to check the brakes & suspension joints, wash down the insides of the wheels, rotate the tyres to even out wear, and make sure the wheels will actually come off the hubs. I then clean any rust off the wheel studs with a wire brush, and clean up the mating surfaces of the hubs and wheels so they will come off cleanly next time.
Corrosion is not an issue in Australia.
Occasionally a bit of surface rust on the exposed part of the stud. On steel wheels. Not an issue with fully enclosed nuts.
There is NO WAY you are at fault if the stud breaks during removal.
The culprit is the person who fitted it last.
Either put back on dirty or, more likely, cross threaded or overtightened,
First step. Nuts should be replaced and screwed up as far as possible by hand. Sometimes they can be a bit tight but you can get them nonfat enough to know they aren't cross threaded.
Then a rattle gun is fine.
Nowadays many have a policy like my mate's five Goodyear franchises where a second tech actually torques the wheels with a tension wrench AFTER the original fitter has lowered the car to the ground.
AND I'll repeat here a claim I've made before.
I have never found a wheel nut so tight I couldn't loosen it with a 4 way wheel brace.
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Snapping bolt is that guys fault who put the wheels on last time. They are not going to snap if you use right torque. My car ie 12 years old. 2 annual tyre changes + at least 1 or 2 extra removal for service per year. My wheels have been off around 40 times, at least. Never had an issue with snapping bolts. And I live there where salt and snow is common. Still no rust issues.
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Thanks for your help everyone. I’ll definitely be mentioning that they were the last to touch the wheels when I go to the mechanic tomorrow. Frustrating..
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Thanks for your help everyone. I’ll definitely be mentioning that they were the last to touch the wheels when I go to the mechanic tomorrow. Frustrating..
Just "mentioning"? :crazy2: :faint: Make the f***n point with threats of violence. :evil: