June 04, 2020, 11:13:53 by Automatic Tony | Views: 118 | Comments: 5

Hi everyone. Is there anybody that can help me with which type of coolant I should use ? My i30 is 1.6 petrol 2013 and I am in the UK. My car has the Original Factory fill coolant still in it, (very low miles 18,000) which is Green (not neon green). Like many people have posted all it says in the handbook is to use ethylene glycol, but ethylene glycol can be IAT, OAT, or HOAT and I know that some of these really shouldn't be mixed. I called Hyundai but they couldn't even tell me me what the anti corrosion base is from the factory fill, and that they do not even sell Hyundai branded coolant. They suggested that I call a dealer which opened another can of worms. I was told to do the initial change at 60000 miles or 6 years then 60000 miles th...
May 30, 2020, 02:50:16 by paradigm | Views: 278 | Comments: 2

Just wanted toa provide a positive testimonial regarding the 2010 CRDi i30 I have had. Very impressive and for the amount of KMs that it has stood the test of time and distance. Nothing wrong with it, infact im passing it down to a uni student.

What I had to replace besides the consumable items :- Alternator (due to a faulty regulator that kept blowing bulbs),... sway bar links but that might be a consumable maybe and thats it!.. nothing else. Just regular service. Another annoying thing was a low speed creak when going over bumps which was also a known nuisance.

New car is a Hyundai Tuscon 2.0L CRDi 2018 Active - I hope i get a good run too from that if not im buying another i30 diesel for sure... or maybe the direc...
May 29, 2020, 21:36:34 by Nagel | Views: 437 | Comments: 10

Hi I have an 2010 i30 FD 2.0 w. automatic 4 speed gearbox. Yesterday the car started "jerking" and it will no longer go into 4th gear. Every now and then it jerks trying to go into 4th gear. Manually putting it in 3rd gear seems to fix it. Been reading up a little and it seems like gearbox issues is pretty common with the i30 FD.

I'm the second owner of this car and I had a look at the previous owner service/repair papers that came with the car and in Dec 2015 at ~61000 km the car had issues changing gears smoothly and it says "Auto trans valve body internal failure" and they replaced "BODY ASSY-ATA VALVE" all up ~$2900 job.

My car has now done 150000 km. Is it likely to be the same problem now again, valve body failur...
May 20, 2020, 02:42:19 by smashbie | Views: 392 | Comments: 12

Hi all,

I have an 09 SX i30. Wanted to confirm what the correct wheel nut torque is when changing wheels.

They are 195/65/R15 wheels.

I've looked in the manual and it says 9~11 kg.m. However not quite sure what torque setting to set my torque wrench to? Is it 100nm?

May 18, 2020, 13:03:40 by robodelfy | Views: 569 | Comments: 8

Hi, I just bought a used 2011 1.6 i30 crdi, with 150k miles on the clock, but its been serviced every 8k, and is well looked after. I am a bit confused about the DPF after speaking to a mechanic. Firstly, do all these diesel i30s have DPFs? Does mine?

The mechanic said every week take it on the motorway in 4th and stay at 3500 revs or so for about 20 mins to clear it out. Is this good advice?

He warned me of the possible costs if it gets blocked. So any advice would be great

May 14, 2020, 06:15:09 by iemandijenier | Views: 1456 | Comments: 24

Hello everyone, yesterday night my 2009 1.4 petrol i30 had presumably a dead battery. It wouldn't respond to the remote and the car electronics didn't work. When I attempted to jumpstart my Hyundai from my dad's car, when connected the anti theft alarm would go off immediately (probably related to dead battery shutting off electronics and the engine bay being open). In order not to disturb my neighbors, I disconnected the horn and let the car battery charge. I saw the alarm lights flashing for a whil, the they shut off once the battery charged. I let it run for a while and attempted to start my car. Now I got stuck with the problem that the electronincs were working fine, the dashboard lights lit up, including the car with a key symbol and ...
May 09, 2020, 23:14:56 by ro0sau | Views: 1360 | Comments: 28

I'd really like to contact a couple of members who have posted in the past regarding pitiful Gd series i30 steering.
FrankW, from Brisbane and possibly Moderator Dave posted messages back in 2015.

I will try if I may, to describe the issue...
Driving in a straight line, more noticeable at speed on a freeway, the car will track slightly off line, can be either right or left. The steering "loads up" so that it requires quite a deliberate move of the steering wheel off center to correct it. I would describe the feeling as forcing the wheel as it seems relatively 'stuck' in a straight position even though the vehicle is veering slightly.

This results in it being difficult to maintain a straight line becau...
May 04, 2020, 05:24:45 by 1600dave | Views: 1807 | Comments: 18

Hi guys
Just after some advice as I'm looking into buying a GD i30 tourer (wagon) for a smaller second family runabout. Most of the cars within our budget are between 70-150k on the clock.

The diesel seems to be the popular choice, but are there any issues I should be aware of, or is the 1.6 petrol proving to be more reliable?
And whats the pick out of the 6 or 7 speed automatics? I see a few reports of people being unhappy with the 7 speed DCT, and costly clutch replacements.
This seems to be the same with the VW Golf which we're also considering, so was thinking perhaps the more conventional 6 speed auto maybe a better choice?
Anything else I need to look out for?
May 01, 2020, 16:02:21 by Em1kevin | Views: 1068 | Comments: 2

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum. Great to be here.
I was looking through and there is not much information on the clutch replacement.
My question is: to do the clutch, Do i have a subframe to take off?? Or is it a drop transmission job??

Thanks let me know if im not clear.
April 25, 2020, 05:46:54 by Badskillz | Views: 1970 | Comments: 20

Hey guys, new member here and i'm in a spot of bother  :neutral:

I have just spent the past 2 days underneath my car installing a brand new clutch, finally got it all finished up last night, sat in the car, started the engine and i can't get it in gear at all.
The clutch pedal has gone super soft and takes some time to return after.
I can select gears with the engine off and it jolts backwards and forwards if i turn the key.
The only part of the hydraulic system that was touched was the slave cylinder which I only unbolted and moved to one side whilst removing the gearbox.
I have checked the slave cylinder for leaks and there are none.
Would it be possible that the system would have somehow got air in it ...
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