[CraigB]

I went to a store today that I am going to buy an HID kit from for my dipped beam. They gave me discount and I am going to end up paying R550 (AU$55) for the two ballasts and the two 8000K bulbs. A far cry from the R1300 (AU$130) that I was quoted for a set last year! Thankfully they are legal here as I have heard elsewhere in the world they are deemed illegal and people using them on public roads can be fined.

Yep they are illegal here in Australia, installing the HID's in a light housing that wasn't factory designed to suit - and bulbs of that spectrum are illegal as well, the main issue you'll find with 8000k bulbs is they are very blue and are basically useless in real world situations because of the lack of light they actually put to the road " quite dangerous to be honest "

[PhireSideZA]

So I ended up going for the 6000K HID kit, installed it and all it needed was me drilling out the dust covers to fit the wires through. They perform well enough, and provide a very nice view of the road. Not too blue, either. While I was at it I found a 6 SMD LED for my glove box (ultra bright) and fitted two of these park lights to match the blue light from the HID's:



I also discovered a solution to my dome light faintly glowing even after all the doors are closed. I found that if I turn the map/courtesy lights to 'door' mode, it sucks up the last of the excess current in the dome light somehow. I am going to order LED's for these lights on Friday so by them I should have all my interior lights sorted

[Dazzler]

 

[The Gonz]

... if I turn the map/courtesy lights to 'door' mode, it sucks up the last of the excess current in the dome light somehow ...

Still very odd but glad you found a way around it.

[Shambles]

I wonder if the alarm system (via the door switches) is contributing to the residual current draw through the light system..?

[PhireSideZA]

I will see whether it changes when I install the LED's in the map lights as well. I am hoping it won't, as I like it that it goes out altogether.

Interesting theory about the alarm system, Shambles! It's not impossible...at this stage I will consider anything

[Phil №❶]

I would expect all alarm switches to be simple earthing points to the car body and never actually carrying any current. It would be the safer way to do it.

[The Gonz]

The most likely cause of residual current is poor earthing at some other point in the broader lighting circuit.

[PhireSideZA]

The most likely cause of residual current is poor earthing at some other point in the broader lighting circuit.

I have Googled the issue plenty and it seems as if many cars do this, not just limited to the i30 in particular. I'd love to know what causes it though!

[Phil №❶]

It most likely is quite common, but under normal conditions, there is nowhere near enough current to make a filament glow.

[joebris]

Sorry to drag this old thread out of the vault 
I changed over my car interiors lighting to LED's and the licence plate bulbs as well, looks great a very cheap mod 

I too notice the slight glow on the map, dome and boot  LED when the circuit is set to auto (door), which I understand can be remove my using a load resistor. However I doubt that I will go to that effort as I notice the glow only last until the alarm activates (30s), I am assuming that when this occurs the alarm must draw up the last of the residue current which was causing the LED's to glow.

So yeah I agree with Shambles when he said I wonder if the alarm system (via the door switches) is contributing to the residual current draw through the light system..?