[doomedace]

Hy guys,

this is a follow up thread on the other one - to be found here Which antenna for GPS? - but as it diverged so much from the original thread title, I thought it would be better to create a new thread.

So, the basic idea was to upgrade from the normal (blue/white display) stereo to the oem satnav (LAN1050EHGD, 96560-A6000).

I tried today, and well, that did not work out as smoothly as I would have liked.....


There are several issues, that I hope you guys can help me resolve:

1) The OEM sat nav has a different connector for the antenna than the normal stereo.
 The normal radio has a normal round connector - no such thing on the satnav unit....

2) The GPS reception
 Not sure if the antenna is defect, or simply does not work with this unit, but I could not get it to recognize the current position.
 It still thinks it is somewhere in germany.
 I did not find a way to show reception (how many satellites it has found).
  Update: after 24 hours it knew where it is, still unable to use the system for navigation at the moment, though.

3) Integration with steering wheel controls
 Nothing. Neither left nor right key block on the steering wheel does anything....

4) USB-Connectivity
 Also nothing. It did not detect the attached iPod that worked flawlessly on the other radio.
 I did not try the AUX-in, but I don't think it would do anything either.

5) "integration into car":
 There is a compass in the satnav: It never changed even one degree.
  Update: after 24 hours the compass changed during driving.

 This one is particularly worrisome: A warning came up "power up the car, to avoid low battery" after some 20 minutes or so.
 Smart thing basically, but I was driving at this moment!!!

 
What worked:
.) It powered up!
.) It connected my smartphone via bluetooth (didn't do a phone call though)
.) Sound is working (beeps and speech when planning a route)

But thats basically it.


So, any help is greatly appreciated.....

Thanks in advance.
best regards,
Alex

[ibrokeit]

Okay then...

#3 & 4 + "low battery", but it does power up and you have sound.  Makes me think that, possibly, the pin-out for 'essentials' (power/speakers) are the same - but the pin-out for the 'additional functions' (i.e. everything else) is different from those known for the normal stereo :-(      The 'low battery' message *could* (just a guess) be related to the continuous 12V (i.e. memory) and switched 12V (i.e. ignition ACC/ON, etc.) if they are swapped on this unit - that could also have lead on effects (such as the unit not remembering where it was last and taking longer to fix on the satellites - probably not, but it is possible).

#2 - GPS modules that have been moved 100s of km while off need to reinitialise - ideally while stationary... they have to get fixes on satellites and slowly download data (50bits/s) to get more accurate information on the orbits and positions of satellites, and error correction/calibration data, etc., moving will usually make it take longer.   The GPS 'Almanc' data takes 12.5 minutes to download - which gives info about the satellites, status, orbit position, etc. - (the 'ephemeris' data takes up to 40s by itself) from a satellite see box on page 103 for a little more info.

#5 I think the compass *may* be a function of the GPS chipset and/or tied into the GPS fix (e.g. by knowing the location the appropriate amount of magnetic north to actual north correction can be applied - without a fix it won't give a direction indication)

#1 - What does the connector look like?   Is it square socket with a small round connector?  Maybe you need something like (note this is indicated for VW so might not be exactly what you need) Auto CAR 17cm Length Male Radio Stereo Antenna Adaptor Connector Cable FOR VW | eBay

[ibrokeit]

While I didn't find info about displaying reception - I did find a guide for navigation unit in the Volster (which is apparently the same one in the i30 - at least software wise)... might be of use to someone... see here

On Page 66 it notes in trouble shooting it may take up to 10 minutes to start working properly when being initialised.

[doomedace]

ibrokeit, thank you for your replies:

You might be right regarding the different pin-out.
Please find attached the pin-out from the 2 radios - they differ greatly.

I'll see if I can map them on paper, so if all necessary wires are there, but only connected to the wrong pins. Or if some are missing.
Will respond with the outcome.

Regarding the antenna. the antenna wire in my car looks like the one I attached.

The sat nav has a blue FAKRA connector, but I thought it is for the GPS antenna only. Now, I'm not sure...


I'll recheck the sat-nav today, it has been left installed overnight, maybe something changed....
Also, I had checked with an audio-CD, sound is distorted greatly - as if not all wires are connected. (pin-out differences?)


But I'll see what the pin-out mapping will provide.

[doomedace]

Ok, here is what I got. out of 42 pins, I can map 24, but 18 I cannot.
Please see attached file. If anybody has any further input, it is again greatly appreciated.

What I find disturbing here - There seems to be no USB Connection on the satnav.
Does the satnav does not come with usb connectivity? It has to, because it shown in the manual (thanks again, ibrokeit).
But, where would it connect to?

Still no clue about the radio antenna though...
But, I am sure that the gps antenna works now - as you suspected it took a while - but now it showed the correct location, and also the compass turned when i drove. But, the navi went berserk when I drove - it recognized me moving, but it moved me so fast around the map, completely unrelated to my driving...


So, I would be thankful for any further input - as of now I don't think this can be solved by a re-mapping of the pins on the connector alone. Which would be a shame.....

Thanks.
Alex

[doomedace]

this: Car Aftermarket Stereo Male Antenna Adapter For 2009 2011 Hyundai / Kia KI 11 #FD 4794-in Cables, Adapters & Sockets,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_9 looks like it could fit into the slot on the lower left.
What do you think?

this might be the answer to the missing antenna connection...

[doomedace]

Hi again,

according to this item on eBay 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Hyundai Tucson IX35 Aux USB iPod Jack GPS Version | eBay the usb connection could go into the separate connector of the satnav.

At least it has the same connector. And this would explain why it is not connected to the 42 pin connector.

sigh, much more work than expected....

[Dazzler]

You are doing it the right way doomedace. Can't do too much research in a situation like that. 

[ibrokeit]

Hi again,

according to this item on eBay 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Hyundai Tucson IX35 Aux USB iPod Jack GPS Version | eBay the usb connection could go into the separate connector of the satnav.

At least it has the same connector. And this would explain why it is not connected to the 42 pin connector.

sigh, much more work than expected....

And this listing shows that '4-pin' grey connector is directly behind the USB - using the KISS principle - it will probably be the connector for USB.  Hopefully the connector will follow USB pinout order (just need to establish which pin is GND and +5V).

I am assuming the AUX port and some-other stuff (maybe something nav-related - if the ad is an indication) are on the white connector.

[doomedace]

yes, I do think you are correct. but still - one would need to exchange and rewire this part also....

But I need to figure out what to do with the 18 missing connections on the main connectors first... Otherwise it is no use I guess....

[ibrokeit]

this: Car Aftermarket Stereo Male Antenna Adapter For 2009 2011 Hyundai / Kia KI 11 #FD 4794-in Cables, Adapters & Sockets,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_9 looks like it could fit into the slot on the lower left.
What do you think?

this might be the answer to the missing antenna connection...

Probably - on the back-end of all the i30 head-units I have seen... the traditional radio (AM/FM) input is on the bottom-left corner of the back of the unit.  And been either square (like yours) or round.   So I am pretty sure that will be it.


However an interesting note is in most markets the GD seem have gone back to the round plugs.   Where as the FD had the square plugs - hence the reason there are many i30 aerial adapters with the round plug (to go into aftermarket units) from the square connector on the aerial cable.

[doomedace]

Thanks for the confirmation regarding the antenna.

So, coming back to my main problem:
I just had a look at my missing connections again.

The ones that are missing:


SPDIF _ GND
SPDIF (+)
SPDIF (-)
 probably the connection to the oem sound system, which I don't have.
 so, not essential

Reverse_Gear
 needed for the rear view camera, which, again, I don't have.
 so, not essential.

Parking
 probably used to decide if video playback is allowed.
 so, don't care much, or connect it to acc+.

AUX V GND
AUX CVBS_IN
 these are connected to the aux-in connector, needed for video playback via aux.
 not needed at all.

Nav_Voice (+)
Nav Voice (-)
 what the heck is this?

Ambient
DoorUnlock
Auto_Light
ALT_in
 and, what the heck are these used for?

One has to be the connection that tells the system that the headlights are on (to go into night mode), but no clue really....


GND
 which one? but probably any GND is fine here...


Any ideas?

[ibrokeit]

Thanks for the confirmation regarding the antenna.

Not a problem.  Sorry I am doing other stuff, so responses have been dribs and drabs.

I should note that exact pinouts seem hard to come by - and that functions present may vary between regions and/or the exact pins used (however it does seem Hyundai likes to try and keep things somewhat consistent as to which pin handles which function... at least within a model generation and/or similar models).   If you look at (for AU market head-units - non-satnav) the pinout topics GD & GD-01 Headunit Pinout and GD-02 Pinout - you will see (esp. pdfs) what I mean about missing and consistent.

So unless you have got the exact pin-out of the sat-nav headunit and the old head-unit - it is possible that some functions shown may not be supported by car wiring loom and/or the head-unit (either old or new)... they just happen to be shown on both 

And to an extent I am guessing on previous experience, read knowledge and electrotechnology training.

Anyway - on with the show...  will post in two parts...

So, coming back to my main problem:
I just had a look at my missing connections again.

The ones that are missing:


SPDIF _ GND
SPDIF (+)
SPDIF (-)
 probably the connection to the oem sound system, which I don't have.
 so, not essential

Yep - that would be for an OEM amp (probably won't be for a CD changer nowadays - which would need other connection for control).

Reverse_Gear
 needed for the rear view camera, which, again, I don't have.
 so, not essential.

Yup.  At some point you could probably integrate one - not sure if OEM or aftermarket would be easier.

Parking
 probably used to decide if video playback is allowed.
 so, don't care much, or connect it to acc+.

Most likely.   A third option, if you could figure which is the 'park line', could be to use a SPDT (or SPTT/SPCO) switch... allowing normal operation but also 'over-ride'.

AUX V GND
AUX CVBS_IN
 these are connected to the aux-in connector, needed for video playback via aux.
 not needed at all.

Sounds reasonable - have no actual knowledge of that.

[ibrokeit]

Navi_Voice (+)
Navi_Voice (-)
 what the heck is this?

I think I came across this before, may have posted in another topic - IIRC in some markets there is a 'Navi' (which maybe branding) system option (similar to OnStar - remote assistance for issues and emergencies, tracking, theft, voice/map navigation, etc.) which fall into a catergory devices known as TMUs (TeleMatics Unit).   I believe they would be the analogue inputs for the voice component of such a system.

With most of the rest of it connecting up via. pins in grey (TMU, RS422, etc., etc.) on the other connector in the pin-out you have.   I don't know how those things operate navigation wise in our context - so I have no idea if that would be 'supplemental to' or 'instead of' navigation built into the headunit.   To me it would seem redundant if your head-unit already had inbuilt sat-nav - unless the head-unit was programmed to use and display external data (when present - which maybe what one of the RS422 connections is for) and audio in favour of inbuilt navigation (or gave the option to select it).

I say that because if you were getting 'remote assistance', i.e. in person - voice - from the assistance service provider contact centre (because you got lost, hit the contact button and said 'I have no idea where I am, please help.'), you would be getting that audio via the embedded mobile phone in the TMU (I am assuming that is what AUDIO+[ECALL] and AUDIO-[ECALL] are for - audio from that embedded phone to stereo to go to speakers - likewise I would suspect MIC+ and MIC- would also play a part in it).

Ambient
DoorUnlock
Auto_Light
ALT_in
 and, what the heck are these used for?

With the exception of ALT_in (no idea - I want to joke 'ALTimeter'... but, of course, GPS would do that; and it isn't an aircraft)...

They could all be involved with TMU functions - my current (limited knowledge) seems to indicate TMUs are mostly about monitoring (various things including engine health) and sending/receiving data (i.e. logic level and line-level audio) rather than actually directly causing things to happen (i.e. 'power' electronics) and I suspect there is a (oldish) std. involved which doesn't include the more modern 'CAN BUS' (another logic level bus).   In modern vehicles it seems, where equipped, the headunit will monitor the CAN bus (for things like engine info, speed, etc.) and send the info to the TMU (and do the reverse i.e. TMU->CAN).   Where as a head-unit already does 'power' (e.g. amplification for speakers); and monitoring some 12V inputs (i.e. non-logic level) - using them and/or broadcasting their status.

So 'Ambient' is probably an input to determine how much light there is (probably this is just broadcast on).   Likewise 'Auto_Light' is probably an output to drive (so therefore a 'power' output) the relay that powers the headlight circuit (I assume this is conjunction with the driver's light-switch being in an appropriate position... probably called 'auto' or similar) - the actual controlling 'code/logic' could be in the TMU, ECU, BCM or the headunit (who knows?).

The 'DoorUnlock' is probably similar to 'Auto_Light' - an output to cause the driving of the lock actuators (I am assuming their controlling circuity/logic isn't connected to the CAN BUS).  Most likely on command, via data serial line (RS422), from the TMU due to remote assistance provider control (i.e. customer rings up because they have locked keys in car) - on positive ID provider unlocks car for customer.  Such service providers usually can also start the car for the customer as well (i.e. lost keys) - but that would be done by talking to the various systems involved via. CAN BUS (i.e. TMU with head-unit being Serial<->CAN transceiver/translator).

Basically all (expect ALT_in) might be involved in TMU (e.g. OnStar and similar services) and not essential.

One has to be the connection that tells the system that the headlights are on (to go into night mode), but no clue really....

Probably not - on all the i30 OEM head-units I know of the Ill+ and Ill- (Illumination) pins have been the ones that do that (most OEM units don't seem to have any light related pins other than those).   I suspect the illumination brightness is controlled via switch-mode (probably low-side - hence the Ill- instead of just GND) from the BCM to drive the LEDs (and control brightness) in the dash, etc., etc. and head-unit lighting - very likely: buttons directly; back-light indirectly.

GND
 which one? but probably any GND is fine here...

For what if anything specific? Or just general GND?

Likely any GND might be fine but remember you can get circuits designed with floating GND or off-set GND for specific purposes... e.g. (only as an example - no idea in this actual case) a 'camera GND' may not actually be tied to actual GND directly (there might be resistors or other things between them) - but it is GND as far as the camera and all associated circuitry is concerned.   However if you have a multi-meter you can probably determine if they are directly tied or not.

As for main GND I would go for, at least, pin A24 (per the diagram with the connectors like your unit) aka B24 (on the other diagram you posted).  As on both those diagrams (and the GD-01 and GD-02 pin-outs, though the numbering might be different) that pin is always labelled GND.   A23 aka B23 (etc.) might not be GND in all cases (I checked on a GD-02 I have - no connection between them).

[ibrokeit]

Also I did stumble across this old topic about the satnav systems - Video playback on GD i30-Sat Nav model - it seems they might be the same the world over (at least base hardware wise).   As some participants are from AU but using info, code and binaries that aren't AU specific and for non-AU units - also for units in a different model as well (Veloster).   Apparently you can put the software on a USB stick and it will run 'on top of' (maybe instead of?) the inbuilt software without replacing it - i.e. take the USB stick out and power-cycle the head-unit and you have the original back - infor is on second and third pages of topic.

Does the satnav does not come with usb connectivity? It has to, because it shown in the manual (thanks again, ibrokeit).
But, where would it connect to?

Though USB already seems to be sorted - just like to point out, IIRC the manual is for a Volester head-unit (interestingly enough - considering above topic)... so while the software maybe the same, there might be hardware differences (which may also be detected by software) so not everything may apply.  Though it seems it might in this case.   Sadly though being 70 pages - there is no pinout guide in it.

[ibrokeit]

And finally - did you get the steering wheel controls working?

I would guess those would be STEERING_KEY and Key_GND respectively.

[doomedace]

I am somewhat confident about the pin-out definition: It is out of a document called "service manual for LAN105EGHD". It also has lots of other technical information in.

Also regarding usb-in:
I found a manual for the satnav I think. It is also mentioned in here.
Interestingly, the manual ends right before the specifics of the navigation usage (last chapter is: Getting started with navigation, followed by troubleshooting).


They are 18+ megs in sum, so uploading it here is out of question - how can I share?

I'll do a clean up/status post next. This is getting quite hard to follow now....
Ciao.

[doomedace]

As promised here is a clean status post.
The aim is to have an overview on what is solved (and how)  and what is still open.
At the moment the solution is only theoretical, as I will start buying more stuff only after all questions are solved.

Remember:  I have an I30 from 2013 (GDH model) with:

• the standard monocolor display car stereo
• USB and AUX in

Goal is to retrofit the original Hyundai satnav, without modifying the original wiring harnesses, a plug’n play adapter is fine though.

Physical connections
At the back of the satnav unit there are 6 connectors:

• Lower left corner – square, grey: radio antenna
• Lower left next to antenna – rectangular, white:  rear view camera
• Left  side, below fan – rectangular, grey: USB
• Lower right side – 2 x rectangular, white:  42 pin system connector
• Right side, above system connector: - round, blue: GPS antenna (fakra connector)

So this is sorted out.

In my case this means:

• Radio antenna: need to buy an adapter from rounded to square (like the one mentioned in Reply 5)
• RVC: I don’t have a RVC, so nothing is needed
• USB:  needs to be changed, as the part (USB & AUX in) is different when connected to different stereos. (like the one in Reply 6)
  Also the 2 wiring harnesses are different (replacement harness not found yet).
• 42 pin system connector: see separate chapter further down
• GPS antenna: need to buy a gps antenna (like the one mentioned in the thread named “Which antenna for GPS?“)

 
42 pin system connector:
This differs a lot between the radio and the satnav.
Surprisingly even the speaker connections are on different positions.
See attached pin-mapping.pdf for the current status
Here are some question marks still in my head, although according to reply 12 and 13 all are non-essential, with “ALT in” being the only one that is unknown.

What's next?
Separate post, coming soon.

[doomedace]

What's next?

I'll need the following additional items:

• radio antenna adapter - found
• new USB/AUX in connector - found
• wiring harness for the USB connector - not yet found
• wiring harness for the AUX in connector- not yet found
• GPS antenna - found and bought
• plug'n play wiring harness for the 42 pin system connector - see below

42 pin system connector:
I need a way to build my personal plug'n play wiring harness for the different pin layout on the 42 pin system connector - as I am not willing to cut into the original wiring harness.
I'll need something like this, but with all pins in the plugs and it needs to have the correct plugs (one side male, one side female).


If this items can be sourced for a reasonable amount, then I'll give it a try.
I'll keep you updated. If one knows where to find these things, please post here - Thank you.


Best regards,
Alex

[doomedace]

Quick update (and more questions):

regarding PINs on the connector:

According to this: Hyundai Elantra: AVN Head Unit. Components and Components Location - AVN System - Body Electrical System - Hyundai

Auto Light means "Auto Light Sensor is detected"
 makes me think:
   signal when the auto light sensor switches the headlights on.
   or: signal when the auto light sensor is built in the car (which would not make much sense, would it)?

ALT_L means "ALT Signal"
 well, that didn't help... Also google is not helpful here. :-(
 in earlier days there was a +12 line going to an external amp in the car, this signaled it to turn on and off. ?

Door Unlock means "Door Unlock Signal"
  can this be an input parameter for the unit, to boot when the doors are unlocked - as to speed up boot-times?


On the OEM radio there is one PIN labelled "DETENT".
 Could you help me out here, what does it mean in this context? I'm unable to figure it out in german.....



regarding the plug'n play adapter:

I could not find connectors where all pins are mounted. Probably start to call vendors to have one done specially for me...


So long!
Thanks for reading.
Alex

[doomedace]

Well, thanks to this post: Aftermarket Android double din
I think I've found a harness to work with. It is from ebay Germany.
Currently,  I asked the seller some questions, but I am pretty sure that I will go on with the experiment and  order it.

Will cost me around € 35,- (incl. shipping).

Best regards,
Alex

[ibrokeit]

Sorry haven't been around the forum much the past week or two...

Quick update (and more questions):

regarding PINs on the connector:

According to this: Hyundai Elantra: AVN Head Unit. Components and Components Location - AVN System - Body Electrical System - Hyundai

Good find!     The descriptions are useful, and the USB connector pinout is probably going to be exactly the same.  Though pinouts for the 42pin system connector appear to be nothing like the mapping you gave (not totally surprising given different shape and relies on external amp to drive speakers).

Just going to re-arrange your post slightly... you will see why...

ALT_L means "ALT Signal"
 well, that didn't help... Also google is not helpful here. :-(
 in earlier days there was a +12 line going to an external amp in the car, this signaled it to turn on and off. ?

I found it!!!  Umm.. I think...  did a google search for "ALT_L" headunit found this - it is for the Tuscon (so not everything may be relevant but...) - SD969_AV and Navigation.pdf

Looks like ALT_L is an input from the charging system - not sure why exactly... maybe allows display of warning messages in regards to charge?  Or maybe something to pass on to something like 'Navi' (if fitted)?   Interesting to note that on the third page of that PDF there is connection between the headunit and amp which is call 'NEVI VOICE'

It (SD969_AV and Navigation.pdf) also has the following two connections (Auto Light and Door Unlock) and indicates they are connected to the BCM.   As the BCM controls the keyless entry/locking/alarm (and I think signalling/controlling the inhibitor) - I am pretty sure these are inputs (from the BCM) to the headunit.

Auto Light means "Auto Light Sensor is detected"
 makes me think:
   signal when the auto light sensor switches the headlights on.
   or: signal when the auto light sensor is built in the car (which would not make much sense, would it)?

Yeah the latter wouldn't really; so is probably the former - used for whatever reason... I am not sure it would be for controlling the headunit lighting though... being that I think if the headlights were turned on automatically so would Dash/Instrument Illumination (Ill+/-) and usually hyundai headunits monitor Ill+/- to determine what to do lighting wise.  Maybe an input for 'Navi'?

Door Unlock means "Door Unlock Signal"
  can this be an input parameter for the unit, to boot when the doors are unlocked - as to speed up boot-times?

Hmm... yeah that would make sense.   Looks like that signal comes from the BCM (see above).   Question will be if you can find and connect the appropriate signal from your BCM.

On the OEM radio there is one PIN labelled "DETENT".
 Could you help me out here, what does it mean in this context? I'm unable to figure it out in german.....

Ahh good old 'DETENT' - it has a few different meanings sometimes within the same industry, so can mean slightly different things to different people and can be implemented very differently - while doing, effectively, the same thing.  A good base description is from wikipedia - a device to mechanically resist or arrest the rotation of a wheel/axle/spindle.  If you have turned a knob that has a number of set positions (such as on a fan or some electric stove element controllers) or 'clicks' - those are detents (which resist rotation - resistance can be very minimal... e.g. if your mouse has a wheel button that clicks possiably with slight increase in resistance that is also a detent).   The minimum/maximum positions of rotary knob are also detents (that arrest motion).

As detents resist/inhibit/arrest motion and mechanical 'keying' is usually designed to do the same (so things can only go together one way) - the term 'detent' and 'key' (or 'keying') mean the same in some industries (at least for some people).   It can also be known as 'KEY' or 'KEYING'.  If you recall 40 pin IDE cables with one of the holes (pin 20) blocked up - so you couldn't a) plug in in upside down and/or b) plug it on to something where pin 20 was present - that is a form of 'DETENT' aka 'KEY' pin.  Of course there can also be electrical forms too...  e.g. a pin is expected to have a certain voltage on it... if it doesn't the device detects this as cable/plug being incorrectly connected, etc., etc..   Of course, now days in electronics, more often connectors are used can only be physically plugged in oneway (which may, or may, not include non-uniform spacing/sizing of pins) i.e. they make up the physical detent (without loosing a pin, etc.) - but as said detent in electronics can also be electrical too.

In the physical context, due to the shapes of the connectors - they can only be plugged one way physically (plug into socket shape-wise) and the different pin-sizes and positions of them means they can't be swapped - a 'DETENT' pin that acts a physical block (e.g. IDE cable - pin 20) is irrelevant.   Likewise so would an electrical one - you don't need to sense plug is around the wrong way... it can't be.   Further a physical one would require all plug manufactures to block the hole in their plug (if they didn't the pin would just go straight in like the rest).

I suspect it either serves no actual purpose OR is incorrectly labelled (esp. with international nature of hi-tech sometimes things get lost/mixed in translation - I have seen it).

[ibrokeit]

Also page 299 of the following pdf - the page number in the PDF, not on the pages - maybe of interest and be useful.  If you have the connector panel like it in your dash - I suspect it is probable, at least for that panel, that this will indicate the pinout of it.   Found it because a few pages before is the pinout for the satnav headunit for the RIO (different again) - which also has ALT_L

The pdf otherwise appears to be quite comprehensive for the RIO.

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[doomedace]

thanks ibrokeit, lots of information in this - impressive! 


Regarding the ALT_in:
Your explanation would explain the screen i receive, 10 mins. or so after I started the unit...
(It basically says: battery warning. Please start the engine to prevent discharging the battery.)
I never would've thought of that....

I am wondering if connecting it to "+12 acc" would get rid of it.
Or if something more elaborate is transferred via this wire (the actual voltage or something) ...


the "Auto_Light" and "Door Unlock":
Well that confirms my assumption, but that sucks. As said, I really don't want to cut into the original wiring....

That probably means:
No auto switch of day/night mode of the maps - no fun...
longer than stock boot times - I can live with that though...



Thanks for the linked documents.
I'll update the pin-out.pdf once more, to include this information...



Thanks!
Alex

[doomedace]

Regarding the "Detent" thing - Thanks for the lengthy explanation. I think I understand what it means. Thanks!
 

[ibrokeit]

thanks ibrokeit, lots of information in this - impressive! 

Thanks - electronics is a passion and what I first trained in.   I have been told I am too verbose!

Regarding the ALT_in:
Your explanation would explain the screen i receive, 10 mins. or so after I started the unit...
(It basically says: battery warning. Please start the engine to prevent discharging the battery.)
I never would've thought of that....

Well it is based off you ALT_L comment above - and the info found relates to that.   It *might* not relate to ALT_in - but I suspect it does and the difference is just labeling... i.e. it is an input from the chargin system.   I suspect there is a timeout/delay where 'ALT_IN' is ignored to give time to start charging the battery and raise the voltage.  The issue is...

I am wondering if connecting it to "+12 acc" would get rid of it.
Or if something more elaborate is transferred via this wire (the actual voltage or something) ...

No sure sorry.   However by searching for "ALT_IN" headunit I found a schematic (sadly I don't think it is for i30 head units - they look more Kia related to me... but given the Hyundai/Kia relation ship and they use Mobis owned by them - it is very probably reasonable guidance).   It would seem to be an actual voltage.

On P41 of this document lg_lan8901ehcm_lan8902ehcm.pdf is a schematic... if you look in grid D10 you will see ALT_IN (input) and ALT (output -  which is feed directly to a pin on s micro)... ALT_IN goes to the 'inverting'/'-' input of a comparator via a voltage divider, while nominally 2.5v seems to be feed to the 'non-inverting'/'+' input (due to certain external influences I am not going to do the math now).  With the supply voltage for the comparator IC and the the pull-ups for the inputs and outputs tied to 5V... I would assume ALT_IN is the actual voltage level (from charging system - e.g. alternator and/or battery terminal) with comparator converting an analogue signal to a digital one (and buffering voltage too - though I suspect the voltage divider on ALT_IN does most of that) at 5V logic level for 'ALT' (directly connected to micro).

So you maybe you could get rid of it by connecting it to that (+12 acc)... though no guarantees - if it (+12 acc) floats with battery/alternator voltage then it will probably work... but, of course, if it works you will lose the protection or warning against draining battery when engine is off.

the "Auto_Light" and "Door Unlock":
Well that confirms my assumption, but that sucks. As said, I really don't want to cut into the original wiring....

That probably means:
No auto switch of day/night mode of the maps - no fun...
longer than stock boot times - I can live with that though...

Yup. Though it be possible that the wires from the BCM are connected at that end, they just aren't connected to anything on audio side (or maybe on a separate unused plug).   But that would probably require knowing which pins they are on the BCM to be able to trace the wires (if they exist).

Because the schematic is not for the head-unit/car in question the following would be 'your own risk' - however I note that, in the schematics, the "Auto_Light" and "Door Unlock" both have TTL buffer/level changer which is configured to handle 12V input (primarily due to D530 & D544) - see P43 grid G6.  These are like the parking TTL buffer (P41 grid Q4) - so you *might* be able to wire (at least the light signal) from else where.   Again all that is just guessing - but based on the principal if it gets the job done why would it be different? then it would make sense.   Though probably better to find the appropriate wires (if required).

[ibrokeit]

Regarding the "Detent" thing - Thanks for the lengthy explanation. I think I understand what it means. Thanks!
 

Not a problem - as you can see the definition is a bit different based on context and perception the author who used it.

[ibrokeit]

Just for completeness sake... and it might be indirectly useful to others.

While searching for "ALT_IN" headunit I found a schematic (as previously described) - other than in the (see below) schematic pages of it (which can't be searched by search tools - probably they are images) - I found a block diagram with "ALT_IN" going to a micro... searching for the part number uPD78F3376A of that micro showed some more very similar documents.   While only the one already referenced seems to have schematics - they all appear to have block-diagrams showing functionality, they all seem to show how the PCB should look (tracks and parts), etc., etc..

Again no guarantee anything, or everything, will match the i30 sat-nav circuitry... but it is a starting point.

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[E36m3]

Hi

I'm from the UK and have a 2014 Kia proceed Gt, I want to carry out a sat nav retrofit and seem to have the same issues you have encountered. Not sure if you know but a Kia proceed is on the same chassis as your i30 and my sat nav is pretty much identical other than buttons being in different places.

So I have a sat nav unit that powers up and works, at the moment I have no usb or aux connectivity, no illumination, no steering wheel controls. Sat nav and radio antennas seem to be simple enough to use aftermarket accessories. Initially I'm not fussed about having the reverse camera working but I have seen registration plate lamps with inbuilt cameras that fit.

How did you get on with your fitting? I have found correct connectors and plugs at RS components here in the uk so if it's nessesary to make an adapter loom I can get hold of the parts.

Really interested to hear more about this
Thanks
Paul

[Dazzler]

Welcome Paul,

 Hopefully we can help you. We consider your car a cousin of the i30 so hope to see you on here more!