Author Topic: HOW TO: Speaker replacement -REAR DOOR - i30 FD  (Read 5717 times)

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HOW TO: Speaker replacement -REAR DOOR - i30 FD
« November 20, 2015, 03:56:26 »
hi guys,
I took inspiration from i30ManUK who posted how to remove the front doors and speaker assembly here :link: Removing the Door Card (front left) - Photo Guide..

Since he showed you the front here is a picture below of the REAR door panel. I will not show you how to remove the old speaker from the cone assembly as this was shown
by another user (There is a .pdf floating around which shows installation of speakers to the cone assembly). PM me I can send you the .pdf via email.

Be careful if you do the rear doors there are THREE Screws (look at that orange plastic with a screw in it left side of the photo). The other 2 screws are located in the door handle and door lever.  i30ManUK did not mention that  :P 

*Before the door comes out you also have to remove the little corner pieces by the window! - I forgot to mention that, they are being held by one popper stud same as the doors*



I had 2 huge problems with the installation of the speakers, firstly the old rivets are very difficult to remove. I ended up scratching the panel in numerous places so I had
to buy blue spray paint to make sure no rust develops. I have not done the front yet but i suspect to be a lot more delicate due to the fact the speakers are attached to the aluminum
whereas the rears are attached to the metal panel which is thicker.  :head_knock:

This is midnight blue (very similar to my vehicle) for $8 from local hardware store. I was not fussed about getting the right colour as it was on the inside of the panel.


Use a drill (2-3mm) to drill the rivets BUT do not move the drill sideways as this will make the hole bigger and then you will need bigger size rivets. Rivet Diameter 4.8mm and Grip 6.4mm.



The other issue is that I bought the "supposedly" :mad: custom i30 speaker from Pioneer TS-1702i



......which were actually bigger in diameter than the cone assembly so I could not screw them in. (They are a little bigger than 6" God knows why).



At least the connector was the same so connecting them was a breeze (no soldering involved).



What I did to attach the speaker to the cone assembly was to use 2 types of adhesives liquid nails and a sealant. Liquid nails for adhesion and sealant for noise/vibration/moisture reduction etc



 I then used a screw with a hex nut on where the old connector housing was (The old wire housing was perfect to fit a 40mm screw in as I no longer used it for any other purpose).
I used cable ties to hold the speaker in place (and allow the glue to set in).



In total 3 cable ties (1x left, 1x right, 1 bottom + 1 40mm screw with hex nut on the top).



I know, it is a messy job and it looks horrible however inside the door panel nobody will see it, I tested it and it sounds good.
(I used some sealant also behind the assembly when I attached it to the panel - in case you were wondering the clip ties did not affect the mounting of the cone)  :cool:



The last problem I had was that the connector since it was not coming from the top of the assembly had to be connected from the inside of the door panel

(you can see the blue spray paint on the panel on the photo below very similar and hardly noticeable - it just doesn't have the gloss).



 thus I had to cut a small opening on the rubber seal and feed the speaker wire on the inside of the door panel.







Lastly no popper stud broke by pulling out the rear door panels, however this is how they look like you can find them on ebay for like $4 for 25 in case you break any (Of course they come from China so if you think you are going to need them plan ahead it could take a month to ship).



There is a (small) difference in sound but due to the fact I have only done the rears I cannot comment on the overall quality of sound (There better be a different  :rofl:).

I will leave the panels out and play some music for 24-48 hours to ensure the speakers are mounted properly and there is no vibration/movement.


« Last Edit: November 20, 2015, 21:29:01 by i30niko » »


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Re: HOW TO: Speaker replacement -REAR DOOR - i30 FD
« Reply #1 : December 02, 2015, 08:46:15 »
Great guide!

I changed mine all over a while back. Check out my thread for some help with the front speakers.
I have a SX that didn't have tweeters. Made a huge difference installing them.

Also if you haven't already got the FD-01 head unit it might be worth a look. Sound quality is very different to the PA710/760

https://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=31345.msg329249.msg#329249
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  • au Australia
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Re: HOW TO: Speaker replacement -REAR DOOR - i30 FD
« Reply #2 : December 03, 2015, 00:25:07 »
Great guide!

I changed mine all over a while back. Check out my thread for some help with the front speakers.
I have a SX that didn't have tweeters. Made a huge difference installing them.

Also if you haven't already got the FD-01 head unit it might be worth a look. Sound quality is very different to the PA710/760

:link: FD Speaker Replacement - Detailed Guide

If doing a headunit change swap this might be useful - :link: HOW TO: FD Body - Remove/Replace/Swap OEM (2DIN) headunit



Do you find the FD-01 better or worse than the PA710/PA760?
  • 2010 i30cw SLX (Auto) Petrol 2.0L

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Re: HOW TO: Speaker replacement -REAR DOOR - i30 FD
« Reply #3 : December 03, 2015, 05:48:47 »
I personally found the FD-01 had a more equal sound, while the PA710/760 is alot more bassy, but does seem to change much with the settings.

Neither are great, I can live with the FD-01. Just still shattered the Bluetooth streaming is so crap quality.
  • 05 Hyundai Elantra Elite 5spd 2.0 Petrol, Black Sedan