i30 Owners Club

EGR valve (how to clean?)

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Offline welldigger99

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Hi all,
For a couple of weeks now I have been suffering from hesitancy and jerkiness through the gears on my 2011 1.6 crdi I30 (75k miles).  The problem now seems to have manifested itself with a fault code P0404  which suggests an EGR  valve issue. My first port of call will be to remove and clean the EGR valve.  Have any forum members carried out this task please? Is it difficult /straightforward to remove? Any pointers to look out for?
Many thanks
Welldigger99
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Offline Dazzler

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:welcum: I struggle with hesitancy and jerkiness too, but that is just how my body is these days! Unfortunately I haven't had any experience with cleaning an EGR valve hopefully someone who has will be along shortly...
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline sundiz

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Fairly easy job. Lack of space makes it a bit more difficult. Coolant needs to be drained if you remove egr cooler. More discussion and pics here: :link: 1.6crdi (2008) DIY servicing: Coolant, EGR, cleaning, brake & clutch fluid etc.
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Offline welldigger99

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Thanks for that Sundiz. I don't really want to drain the coolant at this stage if I can avoid it, although I appreciate from what you have said, that the EGR valve itself may not be the main culprit. I'll have a look this weekend. Would prefer to just remove EGR valve in isolation if space permits!
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Offline Asterix

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Offline sundiz

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Removing only the egr valve should work also. I recommend you get egr cleaner spray. It seems to remove the carbon better than brake cleaner. One colleague used oven cleaner to his egr valve. That worked really well also.
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Offline Phil №❶

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Assuming th video content was accurate, that means that all the baked on hard deposits must have traveled through the engine (and some in the oil) which could IMO damage the engine over time. I would have simply taken a wire brush to the protruding component and a Dremel or similar with a brush for the actual valve, just sayin.

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Offline welldigger99

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Have used the Wynn's DVR cleaner aerosol today.  Have to say the turbo seems a lot livelier but the hesitancy and hiccuping symptoms remain! Egr valve removal next then.
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Offline welldigger99

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Hesitancy and jerkiness continue - despite spending all day removing EGR valve and cooler, cleaning and replacing. The cooler was very restricted at the flange with carbon deposits and at that point I was convinced I had located the cause of the problem. All to no avail however. Symptoms still remain and same old fault code (P0404) has re appeared. I  think now that the Torque OBD code is misleading me. I have read that the EGR and MAF sensor work in close association with each other, so have ordered a replacement MAF sensor. Will keep the forum updated!! This is becoming time consuming and expensive!
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Offline Dazzler

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Without re-reading the whole thread have you tried an injector cleaner and/or a new fuel filter?
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)


Offline welldigger99

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Hi Dazzler,
Yes fuel filter has been changed. Will try some injector cleaner though. Thanks.
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Offline welldigger99

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Hi Guys,
My longstanding EGR problem seems to have been resolved! I reported in an earlier post that I had changed the EGR (and cleaned out the cooler) but the symptoms and fault code (P0404) persisted, all accompanied by an annoying rev limitation problem (maxing out at 3000rpm).
Having tolerated the problem for several week, I finally (out of desparation) booked it into my local Hyundai dealer for attention. I explained the background to the problem and the work carried out to date to the technician.
His immediate question was "has the "new"  EGR been initialised?" to which my reply was "er-no".
To cut a long story short, they have initialised the EGR (not sure this is the correct term BTW), cleared the fault code and reset the ECU.
I have had the car back a couple of days now and its performance has been transformed! No more lumpiness or hesitancy. The rev limiting (which I now understand was Limp Mode kicking in) has gone and the car just feels a lot freer and more responsive. Early days perhaps, but touch wood, the problems have been cleared. It is unlikely that the EGR could have been remapped without the dedicated Hyundai software. Unless someone out there know different! 
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Offline asathorny

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Offline Dazzler

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Thanks for the update (great to hear)

Maybe @cruiserfied or @nzenigma might be able to elaborate on what that involves (never heard of that procedure before) :undecided:
  • 2021 MG PHEV ( had 4 x i30 plus a Getz an Elantra and a Tucson)



Offline nzenigma

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Good to hear that you are off and flying again.

Usually cleaning the valve and a code clear is all that is required.

Q. Did you clear the codes after each job?

Personally I have not had need to initialise the EGR on a Hyundai. But @cruiserfied has wider experience on them, will be interested in his comments.
Cheers

  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline welldigger99

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 Hi nzenigma,
Yes cleared the code several times, but just kept returning after a couple of days or so. Whatever they have done seems to have sorted it though.
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Offline nzenigma

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Hi Mate,
 :) I assumed that you had cleared the codes, given that you are reasonably adept at sorting mechanical problems. Just thought I would ask.
However, given that the code appeared before and after cleaning; and then after replacement, (and not immediately after you had completed your work [twice]) I would not be surprised if we found that another issue other than EGR was causing it.
Good motoring for Xmas. G
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


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