Author Topic: 2010 diesel auto gears  (Read 6276 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

  • *
  • Posts: 3,384
  • au Australia
    Samford Valley
Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #30 : May 17, 2018, 07:13:47 »
I came out tonight to test again and found that I'd accidentally left her in Neutral from last time (handbrake on). This appears to be a bad thing.  I turned on the ignition and shifted to park, which was a bit stiff. I then turned to crank the motor and all the lights come on but there's no attempt to crank.   :scared:

So now the car won't start even though it looks like it should, and because it won't start it's now locked in park  :faint:

Ok , Im going back over the posts, Forget all the crap about fluid changes and marks on a dip stick. If the solenoid is not working you will be jammed in a gear,it will be stuck there for ever. Because you can turn on the ignition and move between gears, it is not locked. There is only that way or manually depressing to move from N to P.
I think you need to go and look at max cable travel vs  lever travel on the box. Loosen the cable connection and push the lever in the  relative direction.
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #31 : May 17, 2018, 13:26:16 »
Managed a slightly better pic of the level on the high side. Don't really think it's relevant now though. 


 
The pic of the other side didn't come out well enough to see but it was around the bottom of the 'cold' level.

Being blocked from starting is because of not registering P.  Once in N it starts fine.  The first issue was it not showing D in drive and being a bit stiff.  I think a loose connection, but the stiffness is my bigger concern.
  • 2010 i30 1.6 CRDi comfort auto (pre facelift) & 2017 Hyundai Ioniq hybrid

  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine. .
  • Posts: 64,348
  • au Australia
    Devonport Tasmania
  • Best Car Forum on the Net
Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #32 : May 17, 2018, 16:55:42 »
Managed a slightly better pic of the level on the high side. Don't really think it's relevant now though. 
 
The pic of the other side didn't come out well enough to see but it was around the bottom of the 'cold' level.

Being blocked from starting is because of not registering P.  Once in N it starts fine.  The first issue was it not showing D in drive and being a bit stiff.  I think a loose connection, but the stiffness is my bigger concern.

That does kind of help as it shows the oil is very dark. When you get the main issue identified then a flush and replacement is certainly needed IMHO.  :cool:
  • MY18 PD SR & 2019 Kona Active 1.6T  (prev owned 3 other 130's incl a diesel)

Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #33 : May 17, 2018, 17:10:01 »
Managed a slightly better pic of the level on the high side. Don't really think it's relevant now though. 
 
The pic of the other side didn't come out well enough to see but it was around the bottom of the 'cold' level.

Being blocked from starting is because of not registering P.  Once in N it starts fine.  The first issue was it not showing D in drive and being a bit stiff.  I think a loose connection, but the stiffness is my bigger concern.

That does kind of help as it shows the oil is very dark. When you get the main issue identified then a flush and replacement is certainly needed IMHO.  :cool:

That I agree with.  I'll post back once I have a diagnosis, though that may be a few weeks.
  • 2010 i30 1.6 CRDi comfort auto (pre facelift) & 2017 Hyundai Ioniq hybrid

  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine. .
  • Posts: 64,348
  • au Australia
    Devonport Tasmania
  • Best Car Forum on the Net
Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #34 : May 17, 2018, 17:17:32 »
Managed a slightly better pic of the level on the high side. Don't really think it's relevant now though. 
 
The pic of the other side didn't come out well enough to see but it was around the bottom of the 'cold' level.

Being blocked from starting is because of not registering P.  Once in N it starts fine.  The first issue was it not showing D in drive and being a bit stiff.  I think a loose connection, but the stiffness is my bigger concern.

That does kind of help as it shows the oil is very dark. When you get the main issue identified then a flush and replacement is certainly needed IMHO.  :cool:

That I agree with.  I'll post back once I have a diagnosis, though that may be a few weeks.

Thanks Craig, please do and good luck with it!  :Good_luck:
  • MY18 PD SR & 2019 Kona Active 1.6T  (prev owned 3 other 130's incl a diesel)

  • *
  • Posts: 3,384
  • au Australia
    Samford Valley
Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #35 : May 18, 2018, 01:07:10 »
Managed a slightly better pic of the level on the high side. Don't really think it's relevant now though. 
 
The pic of the other side didn't come out well enough to see but it was around the bottom of the 'cold' level.

Being blocked from starting is because of not registering P.  Once in N it starts fine.  The first issue was it not showing D in drive and being a bit stiff.  I think a loose connection, but the stiffness is my bigger concern.



That does kind of help as it shows the oil is very dark. When you get the main issue identified then a flush and replacement is certainly needed IMHO.  :cool:

That I agree with.  I'll post back once I have a diagnosis, though that may be a few weeks.

Mate, the colour of the fluid is NOT going to affect the position of the shifter. HOW CAN IT?  :head_knock:

Do as I said..loosen the cable connection AT the box UNDER THE BONNET.. You should feel the lever, ON THE BOX click through each gear.
Pull it back into park. Pull cable through so bloody gear shifter IN THE CAR is at 'P'. Tighten nut. Job done if you have no other mechanical failures.
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

  • *
  • Laughter is the best medicine. .
  • Posts: 64,348
  • au Australia
    Devonport Tasmania
  • Best Car Forum on the Net
Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #36 : May 18, 2018, 04:13:43 »
Managed a slightly better pic of the level on the high side. Don't really think it's relevant now though. 
 
The pic of the other side didn't come out well enough to see but it was around the bottom of the 'cold' level.

Being blocked from starting is because of not registering P.  Once in N it starts fine.  The first issue was it not showing D in drive and being a bit stiff.  I think a loose connection, but the stiffness is my bigger concern.



That does kind of help as it shows the oil is very dark. When you get the main issue identified then a flush and replacement is certainly needed IMHO.  :cool:

That I agree with.  I'll post back once I have a diagnosis, though that may be a few weeks.

Mate, the colour of the fluid is NOT going to affect the position of the shifter. HOW CAN IT?  :head_knock:

Do as I said..loosen the cable connection AT the box UNDER THE BONNET.. You should feel the lever, ON THE BOX click through each gear.
Pull it back into park. Pull cable through so bloody gear shifter IN THE CAR is at 'P'. Tighten nut. Job done if you have no other mechanical failures.

Craig said after the "diagnosis" Gary (not after a fluid change). If he is capable hopefully he will try your suggestion or otherwise hopefully get a mechanic to try that as one of the first steps.
  • MY18 PD SR & 2019 Kona Active 1.6T  (prev owned 3 other 130's incl a diesel)

  • *
  • Posts: 3,384
  • au Australia
    Samford Valley
Re: 2010 diesel auto gears
« Reply #37 : May 18, 2018, 04:43:43 »
Craig said after the "diagnosis" Gary (not after a fluid change). If he is capable hopefully he will try your suggestion or otherwise hopefully get a mechanic to try that as one of the first steps.

Got it Daz. As usual we have had two pages of "diagnosis".   :D

Just putting in my penny's worth.  :phone1:
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

 


anything