Author Topic: [SOLVED] Car cranks but no start, engine light takes a about a minute to light up  (Read 1639 times)

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  • pa Panama
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Hello folks,

I've been struggling for some weeks now with a very weird issue, my car will crank but wont start. After inspecting, I've noticed that for the car to start I've to wait until the check engine light comes on it can take up to 1 MUNUTE after switching the ignition, if the engine is hot, it usually takes less time, if done within seconds, it will turn right up, the coolant temperature reading will not be available until the check engine light is lit either. The car runs perfectly fine after it has started.

VIDEO

:link: Hyundai i30 2010 Crank no Start - YouTube

So far I've

- Replaced ECU relay.
- Replaced Fuel pump relay.
- Checked for shorts (none was found)
- Checked all fuses (seem good)
- Swapped all fuse box relays.
- Replaced the coolant temperature sensor.
- Checked for error codes (None present)

At this point I'm thinking it could be the ECU, the issue seems to have started during a battery replacement cycle, either while the battery was dying or right after the installation of the new battery. I just would like to be as sure as possible before investing in something so expensive.

Thanks for your comments. 
RESOLUTION

An electronics technician fixed the issue replacing a capacitor that blew inside the ECU unit, the capacitor did not fail inmediatelly, but progressively. The capacitor did spill some of its "acid" to the sorrounding area so it had to be cleaned.

The fact that I drove my car like that for about a month actually caused a lot more problem, because the capacitor started leaking and the "acid" spills to the sorrounding area quickly corroding electric paths and other components.
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 12:47:41 by AbrahamSaenz » »


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 :welcome: Sorry to hear that. I can't really help you,  but others who can need more info to help their diagnosis.  What year and series. Manual or Auto. 1.4, 1.6 or 2.0 litres....
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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
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Have you checked the starter motor or your spark plugs? (I am no expert)
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I have pondered this for a while and haven't come up with a wonderful plan, sorry.
I would be reluctant to blame the ECU because it does eventually operate ok and if I read correctly, will be ok if you turn engine off and then on again shortly afterwards.

You have also tried to chase down bad electrical connections which would be my immediate action.
Do you see anything strange re the immobiliser eg does the light come on as per normal. It is possible the coil on the ignition switch is intermittently open.
You mention battery change_ have you tried to disconnect it for an hour, Then cause the ECU to relearn?
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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol


1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol


1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?

2010 FD
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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol


1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?

2010 FD
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.
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I have pondered this for a while and haven't come up with a wonderful plan, sorry.
I would be reluctant to blame the ECU because it does eventually operate ok and if I read correctly, will be ok if you turn engine off and then on again shortly afterwards.

You have also tried to chase down bad electrical connections which would be my immediate action.
Do you see anything strange re the immobiliser eg does the light come on as per normal. It is possible the coil on the ignition switch is intermittently open.
You mention battery change_ have you tried to disconnect it for an hour, Then cause the ECU to relearn?

Thanks for the reply, I tried doing the so called ECU reset, but not for as long as an hour, more like 15 minutes. I will try disconnecting it overnight to see how it goes.
My car does not have an inmobilizer, will it still have an ignition coil?
I'll try researching on the electrical connections, but the issue seems to be something thermal. Like if something needs to heat up, if the car is cool, it will take the longest to turn on, if I wait 5 minutes, it will take like 10 seconds to turn on, if I wait 30 minutes it will take about a minute.



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The starter motor works fine, the car will turn on normally after the check engine light is lit.
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Auto, Electric Blue

Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol


1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?



2010 FD
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.

I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.
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My car does not have an inmobilizer, will it still have an ignition coil?


As far as am aware all have one.

My 2007 fd had one

Sent from my ATU-L11 using Tapatalk

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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
2010 FD
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.
I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.

@tw2005  @AbrahamSaenz .
Ok , this is a cold morning start for me too! Winter here. :disapp:

Abraham, you will see a light on the display, yellow with a small key symbol. That is showing you that your key is being recognised by the ECU. If not the light may start to flash then go out.
The key has a chip imbedded in it. A coil AROUND THE FRONT of your ignition lock reads the chip to get the correct code.
The coil is always hot (has 12v). They are known to fail or to only operate intermittently. Not hard to change it.
Before someone  :whistler: starts crapping on again about the battery in the key fob, it only operates the remote, forget about it.
Overnight for the CAR battery is a good idea.  :)

Gerard, yes mate, like you, my mind immediately went to Ben's ECU. That will continue to plague us. The symptoms here seem quite different, glad to say and hope :undecided:
« Last Edit: July 09, 2018, 18:29:11 by nzenigma » »
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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
2010 FD
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.
I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.

@tw2005  @AbrahamSaenz .
Ok , this is a cold morning start for me too! Winter here. :disapp:

Abraham, you will see a light on the display, yellow with a small key symbol. That is showing you that your key is being recognised by the ECU. If not the light may start to flash then go out.
The key has a chip imbedded in it. A coil just behind your ignition lock reads the chip to get the correct code.
The coil is always hot (has 12v). They are known to fail or to only operate intermittently. Not hard to change it.
Before someone  :whistler: starts crapping on again about the battery in the key fob, it only operates the remote, forget about it.
Overnight for the CAR battery is a good idea.  :)

Gerard, yes mate, like you, my mind immediately went to Ben's ECU. That will continue to plague us. The symptoms here seem quite different, glad to say and hope :undecided:

My car is not equipped with a immobilizer, I've a regular key a with no buttons, so that is not my issue I'm afraid.  :'(... One question, does your engine light comes on as soon as you turn the key on acc position? Or it takes a while?
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Hi, thanks for the reply, its a 1.6 petrol
1.6 petrol what? FD? GD? PD?
2010 FD
Getting tremors and flashbacks Gary, Blue, 1.6 FD Auto, weird behaviour with the motor.
I've no clue on why would the check engine light take so long to come on. like if a capacitor or something needs to fill up.

@tw2005  @AbrahamSaenz .
Ok , this is a cold morning start for me too! Winter here. :disapp:

Abraham, you will see a light on the display, yellow with a small key symbol. That is showing you that your key is being recognised by the ECU. If not the light may start to flash then go out.
The key has a chip imbedded in it. A coil just behind your ignition lock reads the chip to get the correct code.
The coil is always hot (has 12v). They are known to fail or to only operate intermittently. Not hard to change it.
Before someone  :whistler: starts crapping on again about the battery in the key fob, it only operates the remote, forget about it.
Overnight for the CAR battery is a good idea.  :)

Gerard, yes mate, like you, my mind immediately went to Ben's ECU. That will continue to plague us. The symptoms here seem quite different, glad to say and hope :undecided:

My car is not equipped with a immobilizer, I've a regular key a with no buttons, so that is not my issue I'm afraid.  :'(... One question, does your engine light comes on as soon as you turn the key on acc position? Or it takes a while?
Sorry to labor the point but the key doesn't need to have buttons to have a transponder in it. A transponder key can have a normal looking plastic head. Only if the whole thing is metal could you be sure there's no transponder.
It just seems strange to me Hyundai would reverse engineer the car like that.
If there's a locksmith anywhere nearby, he can tell you instantly if there's a transponder.
IIRC there were Hyundai's which came with one remote central locking key and one transponder only key.

Other than that I can't help.
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Sorry to labor the point but the key doesn't need to have buttons to have a transponder in it. A transponder key can have a normal looking plastic head. Only if the whole thing is metal could you be sure there's no transponder.
It just seems strange to me Hyundai would reverse engineer the car like that.
If there's a locksmith anywhere nearby, he can tell you instantly if there's a transponder.
IIRC there were Hyundai's which came with one remote central locking key and one transponder only key.


 :sweating:  Bless you my friend.  :goodjob:
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Added a video describing the issue, any feedback will be helpful.

:link: Hyundai i30 2010 Crank no Start - YouTube

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Looking like no immobo.


No transponder



Transponder



Keyless Entry , transponder



Looks ECU related but could be bad connections/corrosion?

Not related butdoes sound similar scenario

:link: Car doesn't start, no check engine light when key ON - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum



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@AbrahamSaenz

Mate, your car is unique, every other car made before 2001 has an immobiliser.  :crazy2:

Your key probably looks like the second key above.

:link: Immobilizer Key Antenna Coil for 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Hyundai i30 i30CW | eBay

You have this antenna around your ignition lock

If it is missing , then the thieves who sold you the car have modified it.
Please confirm that you have found the above antenna.

Thanks 
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LOL, why would you assume I was sold an stolen car, Hyundai has lots of different variants, my car was purchased by me 8 years ago en Panamá. They did not include an inmobilizer on this version.
  • 2010 FD 5 Door Hatch, Petrol 1.6lt, Auto, Electric Blue

Thanks, I've read that forum post before, it seems the guy was able to pin point the issue. Mine is different in the sense that the lights do come eventually on and will come on right away if I turn the car of and turn it back on in in less than 10 seconds or so.

It seems it could be a relay, I read somewhere that there is ECU relay behind the dashboard, do you have any knowledge of that? it may be the cause of the problem, as even taking the "Main" relay from the breaker box under the hood, does not affect the coming on of the light. Even without that relay in place, the light will eventually turn on (maining the ECU turned on)
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If as you claim, this is a unique Latin American variant , I cant comment on what else may be missing or in place on your car. Suggest you go to your dealer. Good Luck
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If as you claim, this is a unique Latin American variant , I cant comment on what else may be missing or in place on your car. Suggest you go to your dealer. Good Luck
he's highly likely correct.  No immobiliser.  3 keys quoted are for i30 in his region.

One of which has no transponder. 

Who would have thought  :head_knock:

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See the OP for the resolution
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Hello folks,

I've been struggling for some weeks now with a very weird issue, my car will crank but wont start. After inspecting, I've noticed that for the car to start I've to wait until the check engine light comes on it can take up to 1 MUNUTE after switching the ignition, if the engine is hot, it usually takes less time, if done within seconds, it will turn right up, the coolant temperature reading will not be available until the check engine light is lit either. The car runs perfectly fine after it has started.

VIDEO

:link: Hyundai i30 2010 Crank no Start - YouTube

So far I've

- Replaced ECU relay.
- Replaced Fuel pump relay.
- Checked for shorts (none was found)
- Checked all fuses (seem good)
- Swapped all fuse box relays.
- Replaced the coolant temperature sensor.
- Checked for error codes (None present)

At this point I'm thinking it could be the ECU, the issue seems to have started during a battery replacement cycle, either while the battery was dying or right after the installation of the new battery. I just would like to be as sure as possible before investing in something so expensive.

Thanks for your comments. 

RESOLUTION

An electronics technician fixed the issue replacing a capacitor that blew inside the ECU unit, the capacitor did not fail inmediatelly, but progressively. The capacitor did spill some of its "acid" to the sorrounding area so it had to be cleaned.

The fact that I drove my car like that for about a month actually caused a lot more problem, because the capacitor started leaking and the "acid" spills to the sorrounding area quickly corroding electric paths and other components.
  Nice.  The Electrolyte is corrosive. Great to see you have someone switched on who component level repairs.  Love it! Symptoms did have  that look waiting for the cct to energize and then working.  So lucky that it could be opened up for repair.  With my diesels the ecu on that looks  sealed .

Hard for us to  call bad cap online.  Hoping when I get out of this post you have images in the other.

I am also thinking of the guy Gary and I looked at with the same 1.6 petrol and idle issue which may have been a bad ecu and if it has something like that going on.  We will never know.

Thanks for sharing  :goodjob2:
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 17:10:38 by tw2005 » »
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Ok. Looks like nothing more for your other thread at the moment.  Do you have the bad cap still?  Did you note what brand it was ?

That would be interesting.  What  brand was the replacment?  Rubycon, panasonic , nipon chemicon , nichicon ?
« Last Edit: July 28, 2018, 17:07:15 by tw2005 » »
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For those unfamiliar with capacitor leakage.






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See the OP for the resolution

Many thanks for your supremely useful feedback on this :goodjob: ( I applied a highlight to your OP)

I've sent a couple of ECUs to a specialist for repair - the most recent being for a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT, for which I was charged £120 (GBP) when all that was required was a replacement electrolytic cap, same as yours. I would have opened it and had a look for myself but it appeared to be specially sealed (as above).

@tw2005 thanks for the example pics :goodjob:
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See the OP for the resolution

Many thanks for your supremely useful feedback on this :goodjob: ( I applied a highlight to your OP)

I've sent a couple of ECUs to a specialist for repair - the most recent being for a 1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT, for which I was charged £120 (GBP) when all that was required was a replacement electrolytic cap, same as yours. I would have opened it and had a look for myself but it appeared to be specially sealed (as above).

@tw2005 thanks for the example pics :goodjob:
Well, bummer there. if only you had grabbed a screwdriver and opened her up, had an E54A 2L V6-24v galant liftback, that ECU opened up easy enough, expect the 3000GT would have been same construction style mind you not a lot of money compared to a new unit  or likely impossible to buy.

old school sized components in the 90's most likely would have spotted it swollen.

I had my spare ECU too up until last weeks cleanout, could have played show and tell :lol:
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