Author Topic: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement  (Read 1742 times)

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  • Posts: 48
  • gb United Kingdom
    Leicester
Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« November 23, 2018, 13:42:58 »
Hi all,
I have question about abs speed sensor, when removing rear wheel hub. What will happen, if you leave it in?

It is stuck. Tried to wiggle and pray with flat screwdriver, but managed to brake off a small piece of plastic cover/fixing (next to hole for fixing nut). Sensor still working, but before I order replacement, I would like to know.

Any help appreciated.
Paolo






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  • Posts: 3,356
  • au Australia
    Ipswich
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #1 : November 23, 2018, 16:26:29 »
Well it's broken now so may as well leave it in and as you are doing the rear hub which should be an entire assembly complete with ABS ring if that gets damaged who cares.

Then you could attack the sensor with some WD40 on the inside, I'd rotate the sensor that should free it. I have found they have a sealing o-ring and rust in . Likely worse in your conditions.

Then when you get it out , you could clean that hole out , maybe a smear of vaseline or the like justto slow down th ecorrosion with the new one.

What sort of K's has the hub done? I replaced one once but was badly scalloped tyres/fault shocks that created the howl in my instance.
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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  • Author
  • Posts: 48
  • gb United Kingdom
    Leicester
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #2 : November 28, 2018, 13:38:20 »
My car done 93000 miles.

I will be returning the rear hubs, as howling moved to front, when I rotated wheels (back to front - tread wear).

When I was trying remove sensor I used a lot of wd40 fluid (wd40 penetrant).

Would not budge. The final solution would be to take pliers and try to pull out, but more likely that would damage sensor.

Cutting to the chase, I will need to change tyres (two of them still have 4 mm of tread, but one of them is howling).

You learn something new every time.

Thanks for advise

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  • Posts: 41,459
  • england England
    Manchester, UK
    • i30 Owners Club
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #3 : November 28, 2018, 13:50:04 »
Quote from: Paolo39
... but one of them is howling

I learnt the hard way that howling = replace (in my case it was a bubble on the tyrewall).
  • Ioniq MY2018 SE Premium Hybrid in Polar White with added oomph

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  • Posts: 3,356
  • au Australia
    Ipswich
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #4 : November 28, 2018, 14:05:04 »
My car done 93000 miles.

I will be returning the rear hubs, as howling moved to front, when I rotated wheels (back to front - tread wear).

When I was trying remove sensor I used a lot of wd40 fluid (wd40 penetrant).

Would not budge. The final solution would be to take pliers and try to pull out, but more likely that would damage sensor.

Cutting to the chase, I will need to change tyres (two of them still have 4 mm of tread, but one of them is howling).

You learn something new every time.

Thanks for advise
Check inner edge of tyre by running your hand over the surface. If it feels like a , well , crap you don't have a 50 cent piece, how about 50 pence piece then replace the rear shocks. In fact if they're the originals at 150000k I'd say they're tired anyway.

Done 2 of my cars now both developed  chopped up rears and howling. Tyres have been perfect ever since once replaced.

I went with KYB excels.







  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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  • Author
  • Posts: 48
  • gb United Kingdom
    Leicester
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #5 : November 28, 2018, 15:25:53 »
My car done 93000 miles.

I will be returning the rear hubs, as howling moved to front, when I rotated wheels (back to front - tread wear).

When I was trying remove sensor I used a lot of wd40 fluid (wd40 penetrant).

Would not budge. The final solution would be to take pliers and try to pull out, but more likely that would damage sensor.

Cutting to the chase, I will need to change tyres (two of them still have 4 mm of tread, but one of them is howling).

You learn something new every time.

Thanks for advise
Check inner edge of tyre by running your hand over the surface. If it feels like a , well , crap you don't have a 50 cent piece, how about 50 pence piece then replace the rear shocks. In fact if they're the originals at 150000k I'd say they're tired anyway.

Done 2 of my cars now both developed  chopped up rears and howling. Tyres have been perfect ever since once replaced.

I went with KYB excels.








Checked tyres, when was doing my brakes and tried to remove speed sensor (hub removal). They looked OK. Car is not bouncy, so do not suspect shocks (but mostly I am driving alone). Rather suspecting front left tyre (howling when driving 50-60, then disappear).
I need to mention that I moved that tyre from back (previously houling was coming from back, so maybe the rear left shock is gone?).

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  • Posts: 3,356
  • au Australia
    Ipswich
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #6 : November 28, 2018, 15:47:14 »
My car done 93000 miles.

I will be returning the rear hubs, as howling moved to front, when I rotated wheels (back to front - tread wear).

When I was trying remove sensor I used a lot of wd40 fluid (wd40 penetrant).

Would not budge. The final solution would be to take pliers and try to pull out, but more likely that would damage sensor.

Cutting to the chase, I will need to change tyres (two of them still have 4 mm of tread, but one of them is howling).

You learn something new every time.

Thanks for advise
Check inner edge of tyre by running your hand over the surface. If it feels like a , well , crap you don't have a 50 cent piece, how about 50 pence piece then replace the rear shocks. In fact if they're the originals at 150000k I'd say they're tired anyway.

Done 2 of my cars now both developed  chopped up rears and howling. Tyres have been perfect ever since once replaced.

I went with KYB excels.








Checked tyres, when was doing my brakes and tried to remove speed sensor (hub removal). They looked OK. Car is not bouncy, so do not suspect shocks (but mostly I am driving alone). Rather suspecting front left tyre (howling when driving 50-60, then disappear).
I need to mention that I moved that tyre from back (previously houling was coming from back, so maybe the rear left shock is gone?).
ok, but mine were not bouncy bouncy either, certainly not noticeable with a simple rocking of the car either. They seemed to quit with high speed oscillations and I could feel a bit of a tremor at high speeds hitting a sharp bump or with bumps around the corner the rear end became a little unsettled.

They all degrade with age and distance :winker:

  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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  • Author
  • Posts: 48
  • gb United Kingdom
    Leicester
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #7 : November 28, 2018, 15:50:57 »
My car done 93000 miles.

I will be returning the rear hubs, as howling moved to front, when I rotated wheels (back to front - tread wear).

When I was trying remove sensor I used a lot of wd40 fluid (wd40 penetrant).

Would not budge. The final solution would be to take pliers and try to pull out, but more likely that would damage sensor.

Cutting to the chase, I will need to change tyres (two of them still have 4 mm of tread, but one of them is howling).

You learn something new every time.

Thanks for advise
Check inner edge of tyre by running your hand over the surface. If it feels like a , well , crap you don't have a 50 cent piece, how about 50 pence piece then replace the rear shocks. In fact if they're the originals at 150000k I'd say they're tired anyway.

Done 2 of my cars now both developed  chopped up rears and howling. Tyres have been perfect ever since once replaced.

I went with KYB excels.








Checked tyres, when was doing my brakes and tried to remove speed sensor (hub removal). They looked OK. Car is not bouncy, so do not suspect shocks (but mostly I am driving alone). Rather suspecting front left tyre (howling when driving 50-60, then disappear).
I need to mention that I moved that tyre from back (previously houling was coming from back, so maybe the rear left shock is gone?).
ok, but mine were not bouncy bouncy either, certainly not noticeable with a simple rocking of the car either. They seemed to quit with high speed oscillations and I could feel a bit of a tremor at high speeds hitting a sharp bump or with bumps around the corner the rear end became a little unsettled.

They all degrade with age and distance :winker:


OK will have to order rear shocks then. Recently I am just throwing money on that thing.

  • *
  • Posts: 3,356
  • au Australia
    Ipswich
Re: Rear wheel bearing/hub replacement
« Reply #8 : November 28, 2018, 15:54:47 »
My car done 93000 miles.

I will be returning the rear hubs, as howling moved to front, when I rotated wheels (back to front - tread wear).

When I was trying remove sensor I used a lot of wd40 fluid (wd40 penetrant).

Would not budge. The final solution would be to take pliers and try to pull out, but more likely that would damage sensor.

Cutting to the chase, I will need to change tyres (two of them still have 4 mm of tread, but one of them is howling).

You learn something new every time.

Thanks for advise
Check inner edge of tyre by running your hand over the surface. If it feels like a , well , crap you don't have a 50 cent piece, how about 50 pence piece then replace the rear shocks. In fact if they're the originals at 150000k I'd say they're tired anyway.

Done 2 of my cars now both developed  chopped up rears and howling. Tyres have been perfect ever since once replaced.

I went with KYB excels.








Checked tyres, when was doing my brakes and tried to remove speed sensor (hub removal). They looked OK. Car is not bouncy, so do not suspect shocks (but mostly I am driving alone). Rather suspecting front left tyre (howling when driving 50-60, then disappear).
I need to mention that I moved that tyre from back (previously houling was coming from back, so maybe the rear left shock is gone?).
ok, but mine were not bouncy bouncy either, certainly not noticeable with a simple rocking of the car either. They seemed to quit with high speed oscillations and I could feel a bit of a tremor at high speeds hitting a sharp bump or with bumps around the corner the rear end became a little unsettled.

They all degrade with age and distance :winker:


OK will have to order rear shocks then. Recently I am just throwing money on that thing.
By all means get them tested but I think rears KYB here about $180 a pair AUD and easy to fit. If you're keeping it, it's worth it, My SLX with new shocks all round, friggin awesome to drive even the tractor with it 's KYBs is still ok but softer than the new ones.

I'm just thinking you spend good money on the tires and potentially could end up in the same boat wasting good tyres that's all.
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly