Author Topic: 2.0 CRDI trouble starting - new battery/alternator no warning lights?  (Read 4789 times)

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@tweety

Wow! Long time between drinks! How have you been! You need to update us in members trips or something about your road trips!  :winker: :happydance:
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Well disaster. Took it to a garage as I couldnít get the sensor out, even they struggled with it up on the ramps.
Put the new sensor in (Valeo) and it wouldnít start. In fact it was worse than before it wouldnít start AT ALL. Stuck on their ramp. Put the old one back on still wouldnít start. Put the new one back in, still no joy. After about 30-45 mins of trying to start it suddenly started? They turned it off/on about 5 times and it started each time.
They plugged their reader in whilst trying to start it and first it said no crank signal at all then it said faulty signal (canít remember what the word was it wasnít Ďfaultyí).
Only thing they can suggest is taking it to Hyundai so they can plug into the diagnostic port under the bonnet and get some more in depth info as to what the problem is :(
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Did they do any harness work or fault finding electrically?

Corroded plug or wires? 

If the new item is replicated the original fault and when the old one was fitted also the same could it not be that there s a bad connection?


I'd have close look at the plug/socket where the sensor plugs, and a good look deep in there in case moisture or salt ingress has started the green plague . 

Photos too if you can  :Cuppa:
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 :wss:

Lock step with Gerard.

A case of the Bert Russells  up there? 

 to set the scene-:

Up the ramp at 'Little Britain':

You cant get sensor out, mechanics have same trouble.
 Maybe salt on your roads is causing corrosion. Its also called rust and/or verdigris.
"Gee never noticed that"

Could salt water also have an affect on electrical connectors, especially those under the bonnet, and exposed to road spray?
" Gee never thought of that"

  anyway, " Computer says no!"  _hit alt delete _"Go to Hyundai". :wacko:

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Well after having the car taken to my warranty garage, then Hyundai and 4 hours of labour, turns out the brand new Valeo sensor was faulty so theyíve fitted a new Hyundai one. As itís a faulty part Iím not covered by my warranty (should have claimed from the start rather than trying to save time and doing myself) but at least itís allgedly sorted! Picking it up tomorrow
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Take faulty part back and ask for refund!
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I am indeed, also claiming for the 4 hours of labour @ dealer rate to diagnose the non-existent fault
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Well after having the car taken to my warranty garage, then Hyundai and 4 hours of labour, turns out the brand new Valeo sensor was faulty so theyíve fitted a new Hyundai one. As itís a faulty part Iím not covered by my warranty (should have claimed from the start rather than trying to save time and doing myself) but at least itís allgedly sorted! Picking it up tomorrow
Take faulty part back and ask for refund!

I am indeed, also claiming for the 4 hours of labour @ dealer rate to diagnose the non-existent fault

  :seriously: This saga has so many holes and fingers in it. I would say you have buckleys chance.  :spitty:

Prove the sensor is faulty, prove that Hyundai spent 4 hrs on the job...and why so long? Change the sensor is a 15 minute job.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2019, 14:58:47 by nzenigma » »
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Did Hyundai state in their report the Valeo sensor was a dud? Did they find anything else? Wiring?
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Well after having the car taken to my warranty garage, then Hyundai and 4 hours of labour, turns out the brand new Valeo sensor was faulty so theyíve fitted a new Hyundai one. As itís a faulty part Iím not covered by my warranty (should have claimed from the start rather than trying to save time and doing myself) but at least itís allgedly sorted! Picking it up tomorrow
Take faulty part back and ask for refund!

I am indeed, also claiming for the 4 hours of labour @ dealer rate to diagnose the non-existent fault

  :seriously: This saga has so many holes and fingers in it. I would say you have buckleys chance.  :spitty:

Prove the sensor is faulty, prove that Hyundai spent 4 hrs on the job...and why so long? Change the sensor is a 15 minute job.

Maybe Iíve explained it badly...
I bought a genuine Valeo sensor brand new, had it fitted but the fault persisted. Being a good brand neither the first garage nor Hyundai suspected for a second it was a dud sensor, it also gave engine speed data on the live feed when plugged into the diagnostic socket so it seemed fine. Only when they had tried literally everything else, did they try a sensor as a last ditch attempt and as they had one in stock, hey presto it then worked fine.
Hyundai have written a report to say the sensor was at fault, the company I bought the sensor from have sent me a form and will send the sensor to Valeo for testing - if it is faulty it sounds like Iíll get the labour back as well. Problem will be if Valeo say itís fine, then Iím a bit stuck!

Thankfully in the UK consumer law is pretty good, so if they confirm itís faulty and refuse to pay the labour I can sue them for it easily enough (the running total is £3-400 now so Iím fully prepared to do that if the sensor was truly a dud).

Iím still dubious it was the sensor, and Hyundai were happy to open one and try it on the off chance, who says Iíd have even paid for it? Has anyone had a dud new Valeo sensor before? I get the impression itís pretty rare...

Watch this space!
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Yes so they tell me, picking the report and the car up tomorrow.
Iím told they tried many many things including the wiring (they originally thought it might be that but found nothing wrong with it)
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Maybe Iíve explained it badly...
I bought a genuine Valeo sensor brand new, had it fitted but the fault persisted. Being a good brand neither the first garage nor Hyundai suspected for a second it was a dud sensor, it also gave engine speed data on the live feed when plugged into the diagnostic socket so it seemed fine.


Mate, your explanation was fine.

As electronics techs, both tw2005 and I are thinking what the...... :crazy1:
While its difficult to diagnose from the other side of the world, to have a simple, new, good brand, component fail like this is 1000:1.
Even more curious is that it "gave engine speed data".  :wacko:
If the hyundai Tech saw the data, which is a simple pulse (square wave) he should have noticed if it was being corrupted. Apparently he did not.
@tw2005  you may have a different slant  :cool:
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Conincidence or... just had a drive, about 4 times on full throttle got to about 3k rpm and it just wouldnít rev any higher as if Iíd hit a limiter even though my foots still to the floor. Didnít happen every time but Iíve never had that before until now.
Grrr  :crazy1:
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Conincidence or... just had a drive, about 4 times on full throttle got to about 3k rpm and it just wouldnít rev any higher a..

  :crazy2: Coincidence is worse than 1000:1 chance.

Originally: "Once in every 4 or 5 starts the engine just endless turns over without starting. ... runs fine once started."

A number of valid suggestions made here.

RAC guy found crank sensor fault code.   :undecided:

You take it to garage.

up on the ramps.

Put the new sensor in (Valeo) and it wouldnít start.

 Put the old one back on still wouldnít start.

 Put the new one back in, still no joy.

After about 30-45 mins of trying to start it suddenly started?

 5 times and it started each time.

You took it to Hyundai (apparently with Valeo still installed)


 Valeo sensor brand new, had it fitted but the fault persisted.
it also gave engine speed data 

they had [another] one in stock, hey presto it then worked fine.


Now a problem occurs that is similar to other reported crank sensor faults


got to about 3k rpm and it just wouldnít rev any higher


Highly likely it is the same fault  reoccurring and its not THE crank sensor
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Exactly. Any money Valeo will text the sensor and tell me itís fine.
Error codes read ĎFuel pressure highí and also ĎFuel pressure lowí
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Exactly. Any money Valeo will test the sensor and tell me itís fine.
Error codes read ĎFuel pressure highí and also ĎFuel pressure lowí

A fuel pressure issue also fits original symptoms. Fuel line pressure is regulated by a valve on the pump courtesy of data to and from the ECU and a sensor on end of fuel rail.

As a matter of interest, especially re that sensor, has anyone checked your fuel quality? Any diesel bug, present or past deposits clogging filters ( in tank and in-line)?
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Well since the above, Valeo havenít said the sensor was faulty apparently but offered a refund and a credit for the labour.
Following the first Hyundai garage telling me it was fixed and it breaking again I took it back. Prior to that Iíd had a few words with the service manager (see the thread about the allegedly broken gearbox - turned out just to be the cable). I took it back as they hadnít fixed the fault Iíd paid them to fix and was told was done so, they refused to do any further work on the car and the service manager threw his toys out the pram, extremely unprofessional (put the phone down on me mid sentence).

Took it to another Hyundai garage, they replaced the high pressure fuel pump and then the fuel filter housing. It was fixed for just under 24 hours before all the symptoms reappeared - non start and revs dropping not running - currently waiting for it to be towed back to the garage  :crazy2:
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 :crazy1: :disapp: :undecided:

Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear of all your troubles.
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:crazy1: :disapp: :undecided:

Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear of all your troubles.

From me too.
The HP pump job is not cheap. As you have just found out, its probably one of the most reliable components.
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Well since the above, Valeo havenít said the sensor was faulty apparently but offered a refund and a credit for the labour.
Following the first Hyundai garage telling me it was fixed and it breaking again I took it back. Prior to that Iíd had a few words with the service manager (see the thread about the allegedly broken gearbox - turned out just to be the cable). I took it back as they hadnít fixed the fault Iíd paid them to fix and was told was done so, they refused to do any further work on the car and the service manager threw his toys out the pram, extremely unprofessional (put the phone down on me mid sentence).

Took it to another Hyundai garage, they replaced the high pressure fuel pump and then the fuel filter housing. It was fixed for just under 24 hours before all the symptoms reappeared - non start and revs dropping not running - currently waiting for it to be towed back to the garage  :crazy2:

 :crazy1: :faint:
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The warranty company covered half the pump and all the labour so that Ďonlyí cost me about £150-200 (total was about £700) then the filter housing was a further £200 as not covered under the warranty.
Frustrating as they tell me itís definitely xyz charge me then weíre back to square one. I spoke to the head mechanic in person he seems a sensible bloke but itís starting to add up £££
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:crazy1: :disapp: :undecided:

Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear of all your troubles.

From me too.
The HP pump job is not cheap. As you have just found out, its probably one of the most reliable components.

Also thanks guys! Sadly Iím starting to think Iím better off getting rid after itís final back on the road :(
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:crazy1: :disapp: :undecided:

Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear of all your troubles.

From me too.
The HP pump job is not cheap. As you have just found out, its probably one of the most reliable components.

Also thanks guys! Sadly Iím starting to think Iím better off getting rid after itís final back on the road :(

Mate my crystal ball  :phone1: shares your grief, however she assures me that eventually your car will be the most reliable , if not  the newest, i30 in Little Britain.    :crazy2: :undecided:

I find this frustrating, because this is the sort of hands on job and need for critical thinking that I relish.
 If you read your posts, you will see that as each monkey has played with your car, the original symptoms have radically changed.
Good luck with the chief Chimp.  :Pout:
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What makes it even harder is that yours is a relatively rare 2.0 diesel which is a different older design than the 1.6 CRDi in most of the i30 fleet our members run. It is around 10 years since an i30 was sold with that motor!  :undecided:
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Well it was eventually fixed, turned out there was a small pipe within the low pressure pump in the tank that had a crack in. This was allowing air into the system.
Hyundai quoted a 5-6 week lead time on the pump (Hyundai only part not even Kia had the same part) but following some magic from the garage they bought a pump for a golf and used the pipe from that to sort mine.
Then the alternator went so that was changed last week (only 12 months old)
Then the clutch started slipping.

So sadly I had to sell it, aside from the slight clutch slippage and 3 years of whine from the box she was in fantastic condition and had lots of new parts fitted. Picked up by the new owner yesterday who was very happy with it and obviously aware of the issues.

So instead I went a bought a 330d M Sport which Iím extremely happy with and comes with a dubious drug-dealer esc ivory leather interior  :D

Thank you to all the members on here for their help over the years and I wish you many miles of happy motoring.




« Last Edit: April 08, 2019, 12:24:29 by CraigB » »
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Sorry to hear you have decided to sell.

Many members who no longer have an i30 have continued on the site to pass on their wisdom/knowledge.

Also, they post details of their new motor in members other motors section.



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 :wss:

I may need @tw2005  to check this, but the i30 diesel does NOT have a primary pump in the tank.  ( perhaps the Euro 2.0L is different Gerard ??)

I await to learn something new or to find that your workshop was operating as per usual.

Good luck with the new drive, now a fellow Bimmer owner.  :goodjob2:
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:wss:

I may need @tw2005  to check this, but the i30 diesel does NOT have a primary pump in the tank.  ( perhaps the Euro 2.0L is different Gerard ??)

I await to learn something new or to find that your workshop was operating as per usual.

Good luck with the new drive, now a fellow Bimmer owner.  :goodjob2:

Morning Gary, the 2.0 ltr CRDi motor is a much older design with a belt driven cam instead of a chain driven one. They stopped using it in the i30 around 10 years ago. It may quite well have had other differences in the fuel system etc.. I imagine.  :undecided:
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Hi Dazz,
Brain started to work.  :rolleyes:
Last week Gerard sent me a parts catalog , I found the Czech models, and yes the  2.0l does have a tank pump, ( seems I have learnt something  :mrgreen:); but, then I looked at the 1.6 U2 motor which we have.... it has the same pump.   :faint: :head_knock:
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1.6 U   311101H800
1.6 U2 311101H800



2.0 CRDi SOHC TCI,  311102L900



They appear similar
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anything