Author Topic: Hyundai Clutch Damper Valve - low clutch bite point / difficult gear selection  (Read 1088 times)

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I thought as the i30 fleet out there starts to age, and we get more enquiries about low clutch pickup, or gear selection issues I've created a sticky thread.

Here's some research I've done noting these valves have no markings whatsoever but their job to to soften the clutch rengagement and protect the driveline from excessive shock.

Hyundai FD




GD



At some point I'll add some links to other members who have put in some excellent work on this topic with solutions as well.

I know there are many vehicles likely to have a "clutch damper" of sorts fitted. I know my old favourite E54A V6 Galant had a damper cylinder attached to the gearbox inline.

Someone makes these valves, so what's out there?

I did a search and I threw in M16 clutch damper, got some hits!  :goodjob2:

Subarus and would appear the Turbos had these introduced for the prupose of drive train preservation I guess from the clutch dumping folk . :whistler:

Here's a Subie example.








You can guess what these people have been doing, Bypass, and the solution, a M16 x 1.5 plug. Sound familar?

The valve looks identical to me.

At this point it would appear the part is not in the breakdown for availability . Still searching though.

EDIT:
SUBARU

37261FC000


More digging to be done. Subie use NABCO master cylinders, a Japnese supplier,  head in that direction.

Next stop, a NABCO fitted to Mitsubishi, I have the OEM cats for them, find a model with what again appears identical.

here's one, Found in Challengers, / Pajero sports both V6 and TDi. Sounds promising  :goodjob2:




Good news, Mitsubishi decided to break down to this part.

MR319469

And Mitsubishi Australia have it in their system. No, there's none in Country

So, I've ordered one for the sake of research and humanity.

$20



It will have the same thread I believe as the washer spec Mitsubishi has listed 16.3mm , makes sense for a M16 thread.

I'm praying they're available still  :wait:

I'm expecting to find these may be extinct

Links:

:link: Hyundai i30 2007 clutch problems. Fault finding and repair. - YouTube

:link: Clutch delay valve - Wikipedia


:link: Low clutch bite point resolution


:link: Clutch engaging too low.

:link: FD clutch master cylinder

:link: 2013/14 (newer shape) i30 - Clutch / Gear issues




« Last Edit: March 09, 2019, 18:59:07 by tw2005 » »


  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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3 bucks ?

:link: MR319469 - Genuine Mopar STOP/BUMPER-CLUTCH CONTROL FLUID

Chrysler Sebring

Mopar Part No.: MR319469
STOP/BUMPER-CLUTCH CONTROL FLUID

Mopar MR319469 STOP/BUMPER-CLUTCH CONTROL FLUID
Part Description   DAMPER Clutch Control Fluid
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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Thanks again, :lol: Sherlock!

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Thanks again, :lol: Sherlock!
If / when I get my claws on one, I will report. Being clever enough to find one is one thing, actually getting one, well, we'll see. I've been down this road before many a time to find obsolescence,  rules.  :mrgreen:
« Last Edit: March 07, 2019, 23:27:11 by tw2005 » »
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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SUBARU

37261FC000





« Last Edit: March 09, 2019, 04:17:58 by tw2005 » »
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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Toyota

31490-60030      
31490-60040      
31490-60020      Early rebuildable type
31490-60041      
31490-60031
      
31490-12010   

NOTE: I'm unable to verify each and every Toyota part number. There is a possibility that some of these may be fit for purpose and of different designs.  Toyota-3149012010 is confirmed See images below.




Fitted to landcruisers 1990 - 2007

Pricewise, Mitsubishi is cheapest









« Last Edit: March 09, 2019, 17:38:37 by tw2005 » »
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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Nissan X-Trail and others

No part number

The overwhelming common thread though is NABCO
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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Is that an MR319469...in your hot little hands?

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Is that an MR319469...in your hot little hands?


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NO, most definitely not.



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Hi!
After soo manny hours and parts put in my car to solve the low biting point of the clutch, i have bought an new set from Sachs and install yesterday.
The result is stunning. I do think now that removing the damper, which i did, is simply an delay to the imminent death of the clutch.
I think that the oem pressure plate, made by Valeo btw, is not the best. Either engineered bad or the metals inside are not ok. In time the spring plate fails to work correctly. The friction material plenty left, release bearing great shape, actuating fork ok, no visible marks on pressure plate either. Now, the clutch feels great, you can actualy feel the disengaging point. I bite the bullet because i couldint engage gears anymore, risk to damage gearbox.
I will post some pictures with the clutch.
Another thing, inside 2 off the springs from the disk there are some metal cylinders wobling arround making rattle sound. Why they put those in? :head_knock:
Anyhow!! Happy with my clutch now and i will install back the damper as i feel the vibrations now lol.. :mrgreen:
Hope this helps!
Regards!
Eugen
  • 2013 I30 CW 1.6 crdi

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Hi!
After soo manny hours and parts put in my car to solve the low biting point of the clutch, i have bought an new set from Sachs and install yesterday.
The result is stunning. I do think now that removing the damper, which i did, is simply an delay to the imminent death of the clutch.
I think that the oem pressure plate, made by Valeo btw, is not the best. Either engineered bad or the metals inside are not ok. In time the spring plate fails to work correctly. The friction material plenty left, release bearing great shape, actuating fork ok, no visible marks on pressure plate either. Now, the clutch feels great, you can actualy feel the disengaging point. I bite the bullet because i couldint engage gears anymore, risk to damage gearbox.
I will post some pictures with the clutch.
Another thing, inside 2 off the springs from the disk there are some metal cylinders wobling arround making rattle sound. Why they put those in? :head_knock:
Anyhow!! Happy with my clutch now and i will install back the damper as i feel the vibrations now lol.. :mrgreen:
Hope this helps!
Regards!
Eugen
Well that puts a DAMPER  on my damper theory now does'nt it.  The driven plate has springs to absorb the shock. Without seeing this, the metal inserts likly help the spring stay straight.

Anyway based on what you're saying when I put this new damper back in I should be where I was with a clutch dragging. We'll find out soon when I get the car back this week.
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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 "Well that puts a DAMPER  on my damper theory now does'nt it."





groan..... :wink:

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REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  :whistler:. Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better  :victory: :goodjob2:
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  :whistler:. Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better  :victory: :goodjob2:

Great investigative and follow-up work!!!! :goodjob2:

I have ordered one from my local Mitsubishi/Hyundai dealer to put into my diesel's survival kit.

It is quite amazing that if I went to the same counter and asked for the genuine Hyundai part it would be $410.... and if I asked them for the Mitsubishi part it would be just over $20!!!!!  :crazy3:

Glad I asked for the Mitsubishi one..

Many thanks  :clapthanks:

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REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  :whistler:. Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better  :victory: :goodjob2:

Great investigative and follow-up work!!!! :goodjob2:

I have ordered one from my local Mitsubishi/Hyundai dealer to put into my diesel's survival kit.

It is quite amazing that if I went to the same counter and asked for the genuine Hyundai part it would be $410.... and if I asked them for the Mitsubishi part it would be just over $20!!!!!  :crazy3:

Glad I asked for the Mitsubishi one..

Many thanks  :clapthanks:
Cheers, Just come back from a good stint. I will say there is likely an element of weakness in my pressure plate but it's definitely not as low. For $20 worth a shot. Not ike spending $200
  • 2008 i30 SLX CRDi Auto, 2010 i30CW SLX CRDi Auto. 2008 i30 CRDi SX manual, Welly

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REPORT:

Damper Valve fitted, bleeding was a pain in the  :whistler:. Clutch bite point is lowish but pretty much as it was with the bypass. With the old damper it had reached the point with the pedal buried it was dragging bad enough to have to slam it into reverse to mesh and almost impossible to engage a forward gear stationary.

That is no longer the case with the new valve fitted so I'm calling this one a bad damper as the major contributor.

Naturally we can't ignore he possibility of a bad pressure plate but the bypass is a quick way to check if the damper is faulty.

Clutch operation and enagement is noticeably softer with the damper in meaning you can let the pedal out quicker with less shock.

Someone  good with the clutch pedal  control though can engage the clutch just as smooth without the damper.

One thing I did try was raising the engine up higher in RPM on reverse and there's a little drag but not enough to grind.

It's definitely much better  :victory: :goodjob2:

Great investigative and follow-up work!!!! :goodjob2:

I have ordered one from my local Mitsubishi/Hyundai dealer to put into my diesel's survival kit.

It is quite amazing that if I went to the same counter and asked for the genuine Hyundai part it would be $410.... and if I asked them for the Mitsubishi part it would be just over $20!!!!!  :crazy3:

Glad I asked for the Mitsubishi one..

Many thanks  :clapthanks:
Cheers, Just come back from a good stint. I will say there is likely an element of weakness in my pressure plate but it's definitely not as low. For $20 worth a shot. Not ike spending $200

Hi tw2005, what was the Misubishi pn. for the damper? i will look at ordering one.  :goodjob2:
  • i30 GD 5 Door Hatch 1.8l Auto Silver | '74 4 Door Torana | '09 FD Manual 2.0l

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You will see the part number written on the bag in Reply #10.

FWIW Yesterday, I picked up the one that I ordered from Mitsubishi a few weeks ago.

I hope that I never have to use it but it is there if I do.

Thanks again, TW2005!  :goodjob2:

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Thanks Paolo5.
 For some reason my work PC isn't showing the pic. Had a look on my tablet, and there it was.  :P
  • i30 GD 5 Door Hatch 1.8l Auto Silver | '74 4 Door Torana | '09 FD Manual 2.0l