[Misha]

Green Carbon Clean, Engine Carbon Cleaning Services in Canberra ACT

Thoughts ?

[cruiserfied]

Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied

No.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.
I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.

As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.

[tw2005]

Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied

No.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.
I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.

As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.

so what's the solution? Ream, a squirt of WD and run it in and out several times? Or let it be?

[cruiserfied]

Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied

No.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.
I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.

As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.

so what's the solution? Ream, a squirt of WD and run it in and out several times? Or let it be?

My biggest worry with reaming and cleaning is deposits dropping down and getting on the valve seats and compromising the valve sealing.
If i were going to clean it up i've heard alot of good reports about Wurth Injector ex product for breaking down carbon.
Would make sense to try and clean it up as best you can.

[Misha]

Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???




Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....


( side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/ 
//EDIT : Found this old post with vid, mine sounds very similar to this but mabye only 25% of the videos noise level Turbo whistle )

[tw2005]

Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???




Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....


side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/

I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical.  What it's doing is minor for me.

anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.

The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency  at lower RPM,  operates as follows



That image I loaded in a post somewhere

[Misha]

Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???




Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....


side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/

I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical.  What it's doing is minor for me.

anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.

The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency  at lower RPM,  operates as follows



That image I loaded in a post somewhere

Issue's/clues , would agree with that, but mostly out of worry now.
I'm very new(<3months) to opening the hood of my own car(trying my best to do my own basic servicing to save money at dealer, as they charge through the arse sometimes for near nothing at all it seams), so i'm really trying to wrap my head around what everything is, what it does, and how they are connected, and how they are supposed to sound and function/operate correctly. This lever being active after i've turned the engine off being one of them.
I tried googling it as best i could, but came up with nothin that looked like it.

[tw2005]

Just noticed the blue writing on black background, virtually invisible. " small pool of fuel leaking somewhere"

That may be a clue then . A leak may also mean air entering and I'd expect air in the lines would cause injection issues.

 Whatever you do, don't  put parts of your body around the pipes and joints etc if there's a leak just in case it's a High Pressure leak whilst running or shortly after.. I only know what I've read but the CRDi  can run at 1600 bar or about 23000PSI

The metal pipes and joints are High Pressure, the black hoses I believe are return lines, should be low pressure, and that's about the detail I know.

I'm out of my depth knowledge wise on this topic though, good time to read up on it I guess 

[tw2005]

Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ???




Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me ....


side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/

I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical.  What it's doing is minor for me.

anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.

The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency  at lower RPM,  operates as follows



That image I loaded in a post somewhere

Issue's/clues , would agree with that, but mostly out of worry now.
I'm very new(<3months) to opening the hood of my own car(trying my best to do my own basic servicing to save money at dealer, as they charge through the arse sometimes for near nothing at all it seams), so i'm really trying to wrap my head around what everything is, what it does, and how they are connected, and how they are supposed to sound and function/operate correctly. This lever being active after i've turned the engine off being one of them.
I tried googling it as best i could, but came up with nothin that looked like it.

Well, you have the answer now.

[tw2005]

[nzenigma]

From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes  free flowing.

Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a  cold air  leak, time to get the stethoscope out.
Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.

@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer.  DONT DO THAT.
any good mechanic can fix an i30.
 Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.
If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.

[tw2005]

From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes  free flowing.

Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a  cold air  leak, time to get the stethoscope out.
Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.

@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer.  DONT DO THAT.
any good mechanic can fix an i30.
 Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.
If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.

@nzenigma  Also reporting fuel leak it seems around the injectors

[Misha]

From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes  free flowing.

Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a  cold air  leak, time to get the stethoscope out.
Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.

@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer.  DONT DO THAT.
any good mechanic can fix an i30.
 Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.
If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.

@nzenigma  Also reporting fuel leak it seems around the injectors

Yeah, fuel usually pools from the third injector line somewhere. Took some photo's this arvo.

12
34


I noticed what i assume is some sort of rubbery seal sticking out from the front left of the engine(Something similar on the right side of engine, but that looks normal from what i can tell), is this the head gasket ? Its right next to cylinder 1, which could explain the huge carbon build up and trouble getting out/in glow plug 1.





I've booked into a local mechanic in the morning to see if they can diagnose the issue. But at $60 per 1/2 hour hopefully they diagnose the real issue promptly

[nzenigma]

Afraid Im at a disadvantage at the moment, im in Poland and my screen is in its death thros, but can see enough to say thats rubber rocker cover seal. No carbon but you may get some slight oil leak over time. Wont affect running.
A bit of wet around injector line, also not going to affect running, but if its a large leak and enough to affect line pressure then it may be causing your symptoms.

Good re the workshop. They should treat you like a potential client in the future. Tell them you are getting advice from us on line, but we acknowledge that any advice eventually needs hands on the job. AND we are not f**n facebook.
If not comfortable with them, just move on.

Good luck, stay in touch.

[Misha]

Very nice mate, ill be in Ukraine by this time next week. If you happen to be in Kraków in ~6 weeks i can shout you one of the many beers i owe you 

[nzenigma]

appreciate that, but unfortunately  only have a month here 
enduring Warsaw at the moment, hanking to move on to places like Krakow.

Cheers Gary

[Misha]

Got my car back from the mechanics, the owner/head mechanic seams like a top bloke (The other younger bloke seemed even more green than me tho , maybe first year apprentice who knows. Like me we all have to start somewhere i guess.). Car was in shop all day, he said 1.5 hours where looking at the car. However didn't charge me which was a surprise... i was expecting a charge at $120/h labor cost, so this has made a good impression on me.

He said the head of injector 3 is leaking and loosing pressure. And part of my hard and rough cold engine starts are because after a while of my car sitting the rail looses fuel pressure and has to re-prime when i start it or something.

He recommended replacing all 4 injectors with new if he can get the parts, either OEM or aftermarket.

His going to ring me back at some point, but ball park he guesstimated $440ea injector + ~2-3 hours labor . So ~$2100



//Thinking back maybe 3-4 years ago, literally 6 weeks out of my 5 year warranty the dealers had to replace the injectors with new ones, but i only gave them the go ahead for replacing the 2 bad ones as i couldn't afford the then ~$1100ea injector they quoted me . So makes me wonder if i should have replaced all 4 now. As to which ones where the bad ones replaced i have no idea, and apparently the dealer doesn't either as they changed owners/computer systems and didn't have any old data from before....... Hmmmm, oh well, guess lesson learned and replace all 4 injectors at same time from now on.

[tw2005]

Got my car back from the mechanics, the owner/head mechanic seams like a top bloke (The other younger bloke seemed even more green than me tho , maybe first year apprentice who knows. Like me we all have to start somewhere i guess.). Car was in shop all day, he said 1.5 hours where looking at the car. However didn't charge me which was a surprise... i was expecting a charge at $120/h labor cost, so this has made a good impression on me.

He said the head of injector 3 is leaking and loosing pressure. And part of my hard and rough cold engine starts are because after a while of my car sitting the rail looses fuel pressure and has to re-prime when i start it or something.

He recommended replacing all 4 injectors with new if he can get the parts, either OEM or aftermarket.

His going to ring me back at some point, but ball park he guesstimated $440ea injector + ~2-3 hours labor . So ~$2100



//Thinking back maybe 3-4 years ago, literally 6 weeks out of my 5 year warranty the dealers had to replace the injectors with new ones, but i only gave them the go ahead for replacing the 2 bad ones as i couldn't afford the then ~$1100ea injector they quoted me . So makes me wonder if i should have replaced all 4 now. As to which ones where the bad ones replaced i have no idea, and apparently the dealer doesn't either as they changed owners/computer systems and didn't have any old data from before....... Hmmmm, oh well, guess lesson learned and replace all 4 injectors at same time from now on.

Do you have the paperwork which says which 2?  I honestly don't know what would be best, but  easy to say replace all 4 and give us a couple of grand.

2nd opinion from a Diesel injector specialist. They can be rebuilt I believe. why would you  replace all 4 for 1 possible defective?

OEM PART NO: 33800-2A400

BOSCH PART NO: 0445110255

[Dazzler]

@Misha

Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision!  You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?

[nzenigma]

@Misha

Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision!  You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?

Right on Dazz,  at least half that price.

We assume mechanic is right. It  basically follows what i was saying about a more extensive leak.

At this stage I would just do the one, Gerard has a lot of good contacts in the wrecking game, he will happily scope the territory for IEDs and injectors.

for a mate 

[Misha]

@Misha

Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision!  You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?

@Misha

Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision!  You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?

Right on Dazz,  at least half that price.

We assume mechanic is right. It  basically follows what i was saying about a more extensive leak.

At this stage I would just do the one, Gerard has a lot of good contacts in the wrecking game, he will happily scope the territory for IEDs and injectors.

for a mate 

He was pretty keen on replacing all 4 at once with new. quote "just replacing the one can cause other issues" . Don't know what "other" issues he would be referring to other than mix and matching different branded injectors. But i would assume that previously the dealer service center would have only replaced the last ones with OEM, so new individual OEM's shouldn't be a huge issues that i can think of personally for just replacing the 1.

Do you guys recommend calling around and asking for quotes on replacing the 1 with OEM ? or is it worth buying 1 OEM myself then calling around seeing if anyone will install it. I assume there's a bit more than simply pulling out, then screwing in the new one. Unless anyone has any detailed for dummy guides for replacing them for me ?

[nzenigma]

No real problem. DIY.  Each one is held down into the head recess by one  bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out.
 But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.

For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.

[Misha]

No real problem. DIY.  Each one is held down into the head recess by one  bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out.
 But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.

For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.

@nzenigma @tw2005 resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for 1/2 hour , or programming the new injector into the ECU ? Is either necessary?
Think I should defiantly go new ?: Hundai i30 common rail diesel injector Bosch 0445110255 Hyundai 33800-2A400 | eBay
Or consider second hand , or reconditioned , or remanufactred : Remanufactured Injectors Bosch CRDI 33800 2A400 For hyundai Kia | eBay


Any special tools other than basic ?
Any idea of torqueing nm for putting the collar back on?
Cold or hot engine ?
Do I have to relieve any fuel pressure in a special way, or removing the high pressure line doesn’t require any pre-prep before removing it ?

[nzenigma]

No real problem. DIY.  Each one is held down into the head recess by one  bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out.
 But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.

For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.

@nzenigma @tw2005 resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for 1/2 hour , or programming the new injector into the ECU ? Is either necessary?
NO
r hyundai Kia | eBay[/i][/url]

IF USING USA CURRENCY AND POST PRICE IS HIGH>


Any special tools other than basic ?  NO
Any idea of torqueing nm for putting the collar back on? BEFORE WRIST HURTS
Cold or hot engine ? COLD
Do I have to relieve any fuel pressure in a special way, or removing the high pressure line doesn’t require any pre-prep before removing it ? JUST CRACK NUT ON THE FUEL LINE AND LET IT LEAK>
HY SAY REPLACE LINE (LEAKS) BUT NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH REUSING PIPES>

[nzenigma]

IF you are heading up here soon, check sources for parts.
In the past, I have imported glow plugs from Poland, half price of Oz and Korean stock.

[Misha]

IF you are heading up here soon, check sources for parts.
In the past, I have imported glow plugs from Poland, half price of Oz and Korean stock.

~6 weeks till in poland.

Thinking of getting these (set of 4) 4 x Hyundai BOSCH Diesel Injector nozzle i30 FD 1.6 CRDi 0445110255 | eBay
He reckons they where only used for 10 mins before discovering the fault was elsewhere and removed them
Not OEM, but correct part number that i can tell

[nzenigma]

Seems and easy route.  He has 100% report. (One out  of the  four should work )

[Misha]

After my car sitting cold for 9 hours at work.
Recorded my trip this arvo from key on to key off.

EGR command to EGR error % may or may not give me an inkling that the EGR valve needs cleaning, tho could just be bad sensor and mean nothing .

Fuel rail pressure before startup was 650kpa/94.27psi, don't know if that's good or bad. 


File was to big for here, so google drived it:
Data Log May 12 2019 02_39 PM.zip - Google Drive

[tw2005]

After my car sitting cold for 9 hours at work.
Recorded my trip this arvo from key on to key off.

EGR command to EGR error % may or may not give me an inkling that the EGR valve needs cleaning, tho could just be bad sensor and mean nothing .

Fuel rail pressure before startup was 650kpa/94.27psi, don't know if that's good or bad. 


File was to big for here, so google drived it:
Data Log May 12 2019 02_39 PM.zip - Google Drive

I'm not going to even pretend to know the EGR system. Just plugged in a generic Actron scantool that gives live data.  I can see the command % change and also the error % fluctuate.

I can get mine to command the EGR above idle and error seems to also change, when I drop back to idle it stills says it's open with a 99.2% error, if I just open the throttle, drops to 4.7% and error also drops to 30% or whatever it is, not 99%

I plugged into 1 that has about 100000K and another with close to 400 000K, both appear to be doing the same

4.7 % is closed and 43.5% is open. looks like the data is captured every  1/10th sec , is that correct?
What you have there could be normal, those higher errors appear to be around idle, just like mine.

@cruiserfied



 

[nzenigma]

@Misha

Why are we pussin about with EGR.?? 
Same as Gerard has said , I think you are looking for problems that don't exist.

Just deal with the injectors first, don't muddy the waters. Especially if you are trying to learn about the system.

Later you can run some EGR cleaner, even blank EGR, if you want to.