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Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfied
Quote from: tw2005 on May 03, 2019, 07:03:58Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfiedNo.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed.
Quote from: cruiserfied on May 03, 2019, 09:45:40Quote from: tw2005 on May 03, 2019, 07:03:58Maybe time for the Hyundai Master Tech @cruiserfiedNo.1 was the hard one to get out, likely leaving a carbon deposit up the glow plug hole.I'd bet that the new plug has just picked up a bunch of carbon going in and out again. The tip doesn't look too bad.As for carbon cleaning, i've never actually done any onboard cleaning. Only cleaning parts that have been removed. so what's the solution? Ream, a squirt of WD and run it in and out several times? Or let it be?
Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ??? Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me .... side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/
Quote from: Misha on May 04, 2019, 07:12:31Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ??? Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me .... side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/ I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical. What it's doing is minor for me.anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency at lower RPM, operates as followsThat image I loaded in a post somewhere
Quote from: tw2005 on May 04, 2019, 07:23:59Quote from: Misha on May 04, 2019, 07:12:31Not glow plug related. But what is this lever, and why would sometimes after turning off the engine it would go back and forth up to 8 times ??? Still having super rough cold starts, having to cross my fingers each time now , so guess glow plugs wheren't the reason for my shithouse cold engine starts. That distinct wobbling/waffling noise I've posted about previously has increased as well. Against my wish and my empty wallet I think i'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it into the dealer next week to ask them to figure it out. Cause not knowing if your car will start in the morning to get to work is really getting to me .... side note : When revving the engine up i can here ever so slightly a high pitched whistle, and after releasing the accelerator and the rpm goes down, during the rpm going down i can here something ever so slightly releasing some sort of pressure, who knows where or what .... :/ I'm starting to think you're a bit like me and go looking for issues . I sympathise because the slightly lumpy start mine has did not change with new glows or new battery and that's with 1 dead plug, a battery @ 66% and even put new fuel filter in too. It's been an awesome car at 240000K now it's still very quiet and economical. What it's doing is minor for me.anyway, the whistle is the turbo spooling , unless it's loud , perfectly normal. The other item is the swirl flap motor, again what you describe is normal routine on shutdown. I forget now if it's a calibration process or simply a check by the ECU.The intake has dual runners or 2 valves per cylinder, likely improve efficiency at lower RPM, operates as followsThat image I loaded in a post somewhereIssue's/clues , would agree with that, but mostly out of worry now.I'm very new(<3months) to opening the hood of my own car(trying my best to do my own basic servicing to save money at dealer, as they charge through the arse sometimes for near nothing at all it seams), so i'm really trying to wrap my head around what everything is, what it does, and how they are connected, and how they are supposed to sound and function/operate correctly. This lever being active after i've turned the engine off being one of them.I tried googling it as best i could, but came up with nothin that looked like it.
From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes free flowing.Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a cold air leak, time to get the stethoscope out.Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer. DONT DO THAT.any good mechanic can fix an i30. Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on.
Quote from: nzenigma on May 04, 2019, 08:05:35From afar, the fail safe on modern Euro design, is for economy. Vatiations occur. On the Bimmmer Z they have a box on the intake that only allows air to flow through half the manifold at low revs. Higher it becomes free flowing.Taking a punt here, but it sounds like you have a cold air leak, time to get the stethoscope out.Have had same and its a pain until temp is at full running, then engine runs like a dream.@Misha . I applaude your DIY self-education. Heart stopped when you mentioned going to a dealer. DONT DO THAT.any good mechanic can fix an i30. Find an independent garage with mechanics who have wider experience and honest pricing.If the mechanics wont talk or advise you, move on. @nzenigma Also reporting fuel leak it seems around the injectors
Got my car back from the mechanics, the owner/head mechanic seams like a top bloke (The other younger bloke seemed even more green than me tho , maybe first year apprentice who knows. Like me we all have to start somewhere i guess.). Car was in shop all day, he said 1.5 hours where looking at the car. However didn't charge me which was a surprise... i was expecting a charge at $120/h labor cost, so this has made a good impression on me.He said the head of injector 3 is leaking and loosing pressure. And part of my hard and rough cold engine starts are because after a while of my car sitting the rail looses fuel pressure and has to re-prime when i start it or something.He recommended replacing all 4 injectors with new if he can get the parts, either OEM or aftermarket. His going to ring me back at some point, but ball park he guesstimated $440ea injector + ~2-3 hours labor . So ~$2100 //Thinking back maybe 3-4 years ago, literally 6 weeks out of my 5 year warranty the dealers had to replace the injectors with new ones, but i only gave them the go ahead for replacing the 2 bad ones as i couldn't afford the then ~$1100ea injector they quoted me . So makes me wonder if i should have replaced all 4 now. As to which ones where the bad ones replaced i have no idea, and apparently the dealer doesn't either as they changed owners/computer systems and didn't have any old data from before....... Hmmmm, oh well, guess lesson learned and replace all 4 injectors at same time from now on.
@Misha Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision! You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?
Quote from: Dazzler on May 07, 2019, 09:39:48@Misha Wow spending $2100 on a 9 year old car is a big decision! You would want to be sure the rest of the car is A1 and unlikely to need any other significant expenses in the near future. A 2nd hand Diesel motor may be cheaper?Right on Dazz, at least half that price.We assume mechanic is right. It basically follows what i was saying about a more extensive leak.At this stage I would just do the one, Gerard has a lot of good contacts in the wrecking game, he will happily scope the territory for IEDs and injectors.for a mate
No real problem. DIY. Each one is held down into the head recess by one bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out. But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.
Quote from: nzenigma on May 08, 2019, 17:05:23No real problem. DIY. Each one is held down into the head recess by one bolt and a 'collar'. Remove and lift out. But first, Basically, You unclip electric plug. Release bipass line. Two nuts each end of its Hi pressure fuel line and remove it.For peak performance the ECU is reset for each injector, but as tw found out, no noticeable difference.@nzenigma @tw2005 resetting the ECU by unplugging the battery for 1/2 hour , or programming the new injector into the ECU ? Is either necessary?NOr hyundai Kia | eBay[/i][/url]IF USING USA CURRENCY AND POST PRICE IS HIGH>Any special tools other than basic ? NOAny idea of torqueing nm for putting the collar back on? BEFORE WRIST HURTS Cold or hot engine ? COLDDo I have to relieve any fuel pressure in a special way, or removing the high pressure line doesn’t require any pre-prep before removing it ? JUST CRACK NUT ON THE FUEL LINE AND LET IT LEAK>HY SAY REPLACE LINE (LEAKS) BUT NEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH REUSING PIPES>
IF you are heading up here soon, check sources for parts.In the past, I have imported glow plugs from Poland, half price of Oz and Korean stock.
After my car sitting cold for 9 hours at work.Recorded my trip this arvo from key on to key off. EGR command to EGR error % may or may not give me an inkling that the EGR valve needs cleaning, tho could just be bad sensor and mean nothing .Fuel rail pressure before startup was 650kpa/94.27psi, don't know if that's good or bad. File was to big for here, so google drived it: Data Log May 12 2019 02_39 PM.zip - Google Drive