i30 Owners Club

I30 ECU problem / Engine shut down

Omerfs · 8 · 7313

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Offline Omerfs

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Hi Everyone,

It happened first in December 2018, After parking my car at mall, It didn't start after I came back, called road side assistance, he tried his best but nothing happened, After that two mechanics check they confirmed it is an issue with electronics so better to check with Hyundai, which I couldn't get appointment for next 2-3 months. Then car got started after checking from the third local mechanic. He said the issue was immobilizer software he fixed it by resetting or reinstalling it.
Every thing was going fine till last week, I was going up hill and Engine shut down suddenly while driving :crazy1:, It wasn't starting again same issue which happened in December.
I went to Huyndai this time and asked them to fix the issue or at least check the root cause. Today after 1 week they called and said they were able to start the care my shaking the ECU wiring module. but they don't know whats the issue yet, it will cost more to further investigate. I told them to do so.
Anyone has any idea if this way the car could start  :undecided: what could be the issue.
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Offline Omerfs

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Guys

Just an update, they checked everything in the car and the only thing they came up was there might be loose connection of ECU plug, maybe that's why that miscommunication of immobilizer and ECU happened. Still I am not sure if that was the root cause or not. Lets see if it comes back again.

If you guys have any suggestions please post.

Regards...
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Offline nzenigma

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sorry for the late reply.
Our other tech tw2005 has probably looked in and said too little info. Basically, thats where I am too :crazy1:
 
The immobiliser reset sounds a bit suss. Loose connection to ECU maybe, or was some other connection being moved?
Even to guess from this distance, we need a better description, than " Engine shut down suddenly while driving". What was on the cluster? Was tacho operating? Were immobilisor and key talking?

If you are having a long investigation at the dealer, keep an eye on the cost.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Omerfs

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Hi nzenigma

Thanks for the message, Exactly same thing happened they charged me 600 AUD and still found nothing. the connections seems fine nothing loose. Pins were in good condition also.

But guess what, It happened again, last week. As I knew the issues. I took off the ECU cables and connected them again. still nothing happen. Then I told someone to sit inside and keep pushing the start button, at the same time i tried to move the ECU, suddenly it started to fire up but as soon as I was leaving it, the engine was shutting down again. Then I pushed hardly the ECU from the front side 2-3 times, not pushing the plug from top , And here it goes, it started the car. after that I kept moving the ECU / Cables. Nothing was happening. The car was still running.

So end result, still the issue is not solved permanently. I talked with a local mechanic he said he will open the plug wiring and ECU to see if there is anything broken from inside. Do you think this is the right way to fix it or change everything completely, that would be very expensive.

Basically something is wrong in the connection and car stop communication between immobilizer and ECU. Key is communicating with immobilizer. but there is no communication to fire up the engine. This is so dangerous that it can happen while you are driving the car and car stalls suddenly, you cant do anything about that..  :crazy1: :crazy1:
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Offline nzenigma

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This is what we used to call a dog fault.. A device that fails intermittently. You usually had it running in the workshop with meters etc attached, and waited for the day it failed. Then you had a result but you lost money on the job!!! :crazy1:

 Purely based on your observations, it seems that it is quite possible that you have a bad wire connection ( crimped or dry solder joint ) in the back of the ECU plug or even on the board inside the ECU.

To better check these connections, the plug will need to be stripped and carefully reinserted into the ECU.

If we are in the right area ??  then a light touch will lead you to the bad connection. Just hauling and pushing on things, may give you a lead, but may also be disturbing other components. Remember you are close to the fuse relay box.

Definitely stay away from the Dealer; this not a job for some grease monkey. Get an experienced mechanic or give some thought to using a good auto electrician.

And stay in touch. Good luck
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


Offline Omerfs

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Thanks  :) nzenigma
Yeah I am doing the same, will keep in touch and update on new outcomes.
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Offline mickd

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box.

Definitely stay away from the Dealer; this not a job for some grease monkey. Get an experienced mechanic or give some thought to using a good auto electrician.

And stay in touch. Good luck

Hi, as above ,
Get  a written report , doesn't need to be a novel.
"Car displaying engine fault
Checked wiring / connections / ecu holder and unit
Found blah blah
Replaced /tightened blah blah
Tested all OK."
Then back to dealer, speak to principle / manager.
Write down name and contact details  in note pad. ( it throws people off)
Show your bill from them and report.
Don't say what it cost you.
Be firm and just a little vocal.
No refund , ask for reason in writing.
Either way contact Hyundai Australia.


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Offline nzenigma

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Good directions from Mick.  :goodjob2:

My explanation was an outline of basic work practice. I too should have encouraged you to seek a refund.

But, I was (as usual) appalled by the inept work practice by the dealer and its (as usual) primary interest in the client's wallet.
  • FD 2.0L CW (office); GD 1.8L & CRDi; BMW Z3 M; Audi A4 Quattro; Nissan 350Z HR


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