[Paddy]

Hi all,

I came across of lots of bits and pieces on the forum about this kind of issue and after having mine looked over, I thought I'd provide a summary in case it is of use to anyone in my position in the future.

Two weeks ago, my 2012 i30 with around 130,000kms on it (owned for 3 months  ) wouldn't start. I had battery charging light, engine light, power steering warning. With a key ignition, if I moved swiftly I could get it to turn over once but wouldn't take off. If I inserted the key and waited for the dash lights on ON or ACC, I noticed the immobilizer light flash quickly disappear after which I couldn't get it to turn over all all. I had the battery checked, no issues, and when I called this bloke out - it miraculously started for him.

A week later, same issue. This time doesn't start for a couple of days, considering a tow and then I get it going and drive it to Hyundai.

The report says "intermittent start issue due to key reader having internal defect, key battery volt also low and require replacement. removed and replaced key reader in vehicle, supply cut and coded new key and changed batteries, tested - all okay".

Having checked with my spare as well, I'm not so sure on the reports of low key battery being a culprit here. My instinct was the internal reader/coil but I'm still glad they just kind of did everything I suppose. They gave a new cut because I think they misunderstood that when I said I didn't have the spare with me, that I had no spare. It would've needed to be re-coded, however, the old spare is taped together etc so again I didn't mind too much.

Cost:
ANT COIL ASSY-IMMOBILIZER - $77.13
TRANSMITTER ASSY-KEYLESS - $251.91
KEY-INSERT - $15.39
PIN - $4.39
BATTERY-TRANSMITTER - $13.98

I paid about equal to parts in labour. They said the diagnostic was around $160 an hour before I managed to get the car there, I'm not sure what portion of the labour cost is detection vs. repair.

Hope I continue running fine now, I'll update here if I run into any headaches.

[tw2005]

I'm assuming by what I'm reading this is the traditional key in barrel ignition system.

SO how do we get a key battery volt low req replacement? That would be something I'd expect as a warning for the smart key because it's constantly transmitting

A dodgy antenna coil on the ignition I can understand.

If you never authorised or requested a new key, I would have let them suffer that and refused to pay for it.

$14 for a $3 CR2032 = bargain. Was that battery for your existing remote or the new key they built? New battery should come with it and only required for the remote entry not for any immobiliser function. The car will start whether there's a battery in that remote or not.

$720 for essentially what sounds like a bad antenna.

Probably 15min job to program the new key to the car and I'd assume they sent the blank out for the key cut to code which is expensive. Cheapest I can get it done for is $40 but most quote up to $80

Anyway, hope you're all good from here.

Dealers 

[nzenigma]

I noticed the immobilizer light flash quickly disappear after which I couldn't get it to turn over all all.

Thanks Paddy.

The above line is all I needed .
 The Antenna Coil was the culprit. It appears that everyone except HY dealers recognise the above symptoms.

As usual, the Key was never at fault.

[Dazzler]

  Sorry to hear about your less than stellar start to i30 ownership.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

While it is great they have hopefully sorted the issue, it does seem like a large sum for the priviledge! 

I guess it comes back into focus a bit when you realise a smart key for most cars including the i30 comes in around $500 or thereabouts.  I realise the key you got wasn't a remote key, but it just puts thinks into perspective I guess.

Labour charges are insane these days! 

[Paddy]

Hi all,

Indeed - traditional key start. They replaced the battery in the existing key, and gave me a new key.

As expected from even from my very basic knowledge, it does appear like myself (and you all!) know it had nothing to do with the keys.

Hopefully some others can benefit from this. At first it can be very difficult to understand what's going on if you're not familiar, that immobilizer light goes very quickly. Glad I wasn't charged for the initial charge out when it started for the mechanic, and that I eventually got it going saving on the tow. Swings and roundabouts.

Now just to work out that exhaust rattle on cold start. 

[tw2005]

Hi all,

Indeed - traditional key start. They replaced the battery in the existing key, and gave me a new key.

As expected from even from my very basic knowledge, it does appear like myself (and you all!) know it had nothing to do with the keys.

Hopefully some others can benefit from this. At first it can be very difficult to understand what's going on if you're not familiar, that immobilizer light goes very quickly. Glad I wasn't charged for the initial charge out when it started for the mechanic, and that I eventually got it going saving on the tow. Swings and roundabouts.

Now just to work out that exhaust rattle on cold start. 

How long does the rattle last?