Author Topic: terrible i30 panel gaps and bonnet fit on brand new 2018-on PD 3rd gen  (Read 526 times)

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  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire
I've just picked up my i30 (last week) I've got a brand new engine red 1.4 fastback.

What really bothers me (apart from the lack of automatic climate control, like the most basic of human comforts......) is the appalling fit of the front end, talk about thrown together!

I noticed the panel gap on the drivers side between the wing and the A pillar - what the actual  :Shocked: I can see the chassis and bits though the gap, it's HUGE!! and to further amplify the obviousness of the issue, the passenger side is absolutely spot on!

I didn't notice when I bought it but there was a clip missing from the underside of the bumper (a black plastic trim that comes down from the bumper/undertray - the one that scrapes on the floor if you park over a high kerb!)

No bother, dealer sorted, just a bit of plastic, then my dad pointed out the bonnet didn't fit properly at the front, it was tight on the headlights but high in the middle, I don't even think it was sitting on the rubber seal, allowing water and road grime straight in! I think this may have been heat related, as it was better, but not great when I went to the dealer to get the plastic clip fitted.

Then I noticed the bodyline between the front bumper and front wing wasn't pushed together, I put that back with a good moderate press on the plastic bumper and looked as it should.

How the bumper happened I don't know, but given the ridiculousness of the wing/A pillar gap, assembly/quality control on the bodywork front is clearly pretty relaxed, I wouldn't be surprised if it just passed QC's like that.

I'm hoping the dealer will sort it, if not, I'll take it to a bodyshop and have it all refitted and try to claim the money back, but one way or another, it can't stay like that.

I've never had a new car before, and I really wanted to love it especially as it's costing me a bloody fortune but so far, its a bit shoddy.

I looked at 2 other i30's (these were hatchbacks) in the dealership and they were both the same but varying degrees of bad, mine being the worst.

What a shame  :disapp: :fum:


  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • au Australia
    Tura Beach ( Deep Deep South Coast) NSW
So depressing.  Take pics of everything,  use a rule  for reference. DON'T take it to a shop.
Stick to your guns. Accept only Written responces.
  • 4/18 Kona H/lndr 1.6T 7dct & 2/18 DM5 Santa Fe H/lndr 2.2 6sp (9/16 Active X)

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  • au Australia
    Caloundra, Queensland.
When i picked up my FD the bonnet was out of alignment.
I checked for adjustment options and quickly realized from my days buildimg (and repairing) rally cars that there was only one solution  in this case.
Some judicious pushing and twisting of the bonnet.
The car was new so I took it back to the dealer and showed it to the service manager.
He hmmmd and hwwwd.
I looked him in the eye and told him I' used to build rally cars and I knew how it needed to be fixed.
He sort of nodded and told me to go for an hours walk.
I did. Came back and everything was lined up.
We shook hands and there was never a problem with it again.
  • 2013 Toyota Corolla Ascent Sport 6sp Manual. formerly 2009 i30 Hatch 5sp Manual.

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  • gb United Kingdom
    Midlands
  • Midlands, UK N-Line T-GDi
Have a good look around it, as its always possible its has a knock at the front.

Are all the clips in that front trim - there should be 4 or 5 of them joining the trim to the bottom of the bumper.

Are all the front clips just behind those all present in the engine tray too? - these connect the tray to this trim and are responsible for a lot of the stiffening in this area.

look in the front wheel arches both sides - are all the clips (same sort) present, especially the ones that connect the lower front of the wheel arches to the bottom back of the bumper? are the front of the wheel arch liners loose at all - they should not move on the front edge.

A photo of the panel gaps would get you more opinion. Mine look pretty tight.

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  • Posts: 9,657
  • au Australia
    Perth
My GD had the bonnet and drivers door not lined up correctly when closed, I loosened the bonnet latch and was able to tap it down several millimetres then loosened the door catch on the B pillar and was able to knock that a few millimetres inwards as well.

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  • Laughter is the best medicine. .
  • Posts: 64,348
  • au Australia
    Devonport Tasmania
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 :wlcome01: Sorry to hear that! Our 4 different i30's over the last 11 years have all been pretty good QC /panel gap wise.

Early Czech built cars were a bit hit and miss. Series 1 (FD) built there had a few paint and other minor issues, but by the time they got to the GD version it seemed a lot better. My wife's Czech built Tourer (wagon) had great paint and good fit and finish.

Infact, with the GD I think the Czech cars were better built than the Korean built ones.

It's a shame if the Czech QC has dropped. Although Lorian's car would have come out of the same factory and sounds like he is happy with the QC so far.

Not doubting you, I actually thought the same thing as Lorian. Maybe it got a knock in Transit (it happens) and wasn't repaired properly.

Like the others say stand your ground.
  • MY18 PD SR & 2019 Kona Active 1.6T  (prev owned 3 other 130's incl a diesel)

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  • au Australia
    Samford Valley
Have a good look around it, as its always possible its has a knock at the front.

A photo of the panel gaps would get you more opinion. Mine look pretty tight.

 :goodjob2: :goodjob2: :goodjob2:

As a repairer of damaged i30s, that is my assumption.

I work off the original factory specs.
All i30 chassis frames are drilled and tapped to the same diagonal measurement > to less than a millimeter.

Therefore, each panel will fit perfectly when bolted on to the car.

You can imagine the wasted time on an assembly line  if every panel has to be bumped and pushed to line up.

The first thing an astute buyer does is to look at the panel gaps. I also do a rough three finger measurement of the wheel to guard gap-mid way. Are yours equal? Not sure? use a tape measure from door edge to wheel centre.
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

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  • au Australia
    Samford Valley
Mine look pretty tight.

Thought #1
Love tight gaps.  :D

Thought #2
Possibly the Czech branch of the EU is exporting i30s with an English level of finesse.

Thought #3
The sheep dog's rebuttal: Boris will rebuild the English car manufacturing industry,  :laughter:  .....
 ...reviving, the Hillman L'Imp' by Rootes Group.  :honk:

« Last Edit: September 13, 2019, 16:48:08 by nzenigma » »
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

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  • Midlands, UK
2019 i30.  The gap on the front of my bonnet is a lot larger on the drivers side.  Drivers door poor alignment, too high at B pillar.  In fact I think all of the panel gaps are bigger on this than my older model i30  :head_knock:

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  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire
Sorry for not responding yet, I'd been waiting to find enough time to photograph the offending wing to A pillar gap with a steel rule but its been one of them weeks!

The dealer said he's sent photos of the panel gaps to Hyundai for review, but it's been playing on my mind since seeing those two hatch version in the car park 12-18 months older than mine with the same issue - they have to be aware of this, so I'm ready for a good fobbing off from them (they weren't as bad, the N-line was acceptable but it was still larger on the drivers side than the passenger side - strange!

I was thinking of getting the N-line but there were a few things it wouldn't have come with vs our UK spec SE Nav (it was style over substance) and it would have cost me a grand more.

I like this 1.4 turbo, it gets a move on when you need it to, it can be a bit steady if you don't hit it just right, shame they couldn't offer a 1.6 turbo though, that would have probably been better all round.
  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • au Australia
    Samford Valley

I like this 1.4 turbo, it gets a move on when you need it to, it can be a bit steady if you don't hit it just right, shame they couldn't offer a 1.6 turbo though, that would have probably been better all round.

Always been curious down under. Various crap Pom models ( any manufacturer ) have come this way since the 1970s. They all seem to be totally  orientated to city driving. Often we improved them by fitting a better dif. Or set fire to them.  :robot:
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

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  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire

Always been curious down under. Various crap Pom models ( any manufacturer ) have come this way since the 1970s. They all seem to be totally  orientated to city driving. Often we improved them by fitting a better dif. Or set fire to them.  :robot:

I've not given it enough welly to find out how the diff copes (the engines only just over 300 miles so I'm still being gentle, mostly) but as soon as it gets a bit slippery I'll find out as I go for all the smallest gaps at junctions  :evil: - I don't expect it will have anything mechanical or electrical distributing torque given that its a pretty budget model!

I was thinking about the 120PS 1.0 3-cyl Kappa engine, and I'm assuming the 1.4 4-cyl Kappa engine is the same with an extra cylinder, which leaves me thinking if the 1.0 3-cyl has 120PS, surely the 4cyl should manage 160PS without to much hassle, and that shouldn't be much trouble even considering the extra crank length?

I'd interested to log boost vs rpm vs TPS on a 1.0 vs 1.4. My brother has a little box of tricks that skews a manifold/boost pressure sensor on his CupraR, you can save a number of different user defined curves and switch on the go. He did mention that VAG were on to it with regards to warranty claims presumably some sort of log on the ECU where the numbers dont add up.
  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire
So....

The guy at the dealers has said to phone him on Friday (I'm working away from home) to arrange collection of my car next week. They want me to sign a form (????) they will then take it to a bodyshop who will look at the car and come up with something for review by Hyundai Warranty department (measurements? a proposed solution and price? or a simple this is acceptable, or this isnt acceptable? I dont know?)

They'll also update my out of date nav.....

I noticed when waxing, the panel gap isn't just large at the top, the whole panel actually sticks out more than the door panel, when buffing the wax off, the panel is high vs the door. It needs to go inward, and maybe that will close the gap up at the top??
  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • Laughter is the best medicine. .
  • Posts: 64,348
  • au Australia
    Devonport Tasmania
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Shouldn't be necessary but it is good they acknowledge there is a problem and want to be proactive in fixing it.  :goodjob:
  • MY18 PD SR & 2019 Kona Active 1.6T  (prev owned 3 other 130's incl a diesel)

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  • au Australia
    Samford Valley

I noticed when waxing, the panel gap isn't just large at the top, the whole panel actually sticks out more than the door panel, when buffing the wax off, the panel is high vs the door. It needs to go inward, and maybe that will close the gap up at the top??

It may be worth showing it to a friendly panel beater. He will know whats up straight away, so you go armed with more knowledge.

The described guard alignment is common when using after market panels. ( they do not have the HY stamp on the top lip  :winker:) It only takes a couple of  incorrect millimeters to push the guard out like that.

The bonnet alignment you mention only happens if one of the hinges is bent or positioned incorrectly.  But, that assumes that the sub-frame has not been bent in an accident.  :sweating: :sweating: :sweating:
 Bonnet and doors are secured by self-centering bolts so there are few options to adjust them ( or stuff them up).

All up, your story hints that the car is out of alignment due to some impact.
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

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  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire
I've checked over the panel and fixings, it looks original, the bolt heads are painted and they don't look to have been touched unless it was done immaculately with soft faced socket.

I don't have great forum skills, hopefully these images will work. I've still not actually measure the gap but it's pretty clear. The right side is the big gap, the left side is perfectly acceptable in my mind.













« Last Edit: September 17, 2019, 06:56:47 by Russ-41 » »
  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire
As far as I can tell, it's not working, back to the drawing board!
« Last Edit: September 17, 2019, 07:45:29 by Russ-41 » »
  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • au Australia
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As far as I can tell, it's not working, back to the drawing board!
Your photos are visible if that's what you mean
  • 2013 Toyota Corolla Ascent Sport 6sp Manual. formerly 2009 i30 Hatch 5sp Manual.

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  • Midlands, UK
I know how you feel:

Paint


Panel gaps


My UK Hyundai dealer not interested.


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  • Author
  • Posts: 7
  • gb United Kingdom
    South Yorkshire
I know how you feel:

Paint


Panel gaps


My UK Hyundai dealer not interested.



Panel gap wise, this is exactly what mine looks like, panel sticks out and its low. I'll try again with the images later :matrix:

Your paint isn't right, who owns the dealership? I'm dealing with Read Motor Group (aka Read Hyundai in this case) who are fairly small in the grand scheme of things, they own 8 dealerships, all franchise, most of them Hyundai, they're not listed on the top 100 UK dealer groups by turnover (probably not by a long shot!) but every one of their dealerships is on the top 25 list of best Hyundai dealers in the country, and the Grimsby branch were the UK's number 1 Hyundai Dealer last year!

Lets hope I don't have to eat those words later  :fingers: !!!!
  • 2019 i30 Fastback 1.4 T-GDi SE Nav

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  • Posts: 3,124
  • gb United Kingdom
    Midlands
  • Midlands, UK N-Line T-GDi
Just wandered out with my micrometer. My panel gaps there are mostly about 3.2mm and max 3.6mm and I don't have the panel droop.

Paint looks poor. Any raising, does it look like its in the clear coat, or the pigment?

I do have a serious fault with my car though, not bodywork related. More on that when I've been to the dealer and we have some more diagnosis.



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  • au Australia
    Samford Valley
I know how you feel:

Panel gaps


My UK Hyundai dealer not interested.

The A pillar 'panel' is welded to the A pillar of the car frame. Take that as reference point.

 PD front guard is not attached to the bonnet hinge. Gap to A pillar is too large. This would cause the bonnet to guard gap on the LH side to change  (eg. mm. width reduces from near A pillar to mm. width at headlight.) If not , why not?

RF guard is totally mis-aligned.

RF door is also incorrect. The top edge of the door panel sticks up; it should be on the same plain as the lower horizontal fold of the A pillar.

Re paint, looks like spay equipment hygiene failure.  Fragments of another colour .

"My UK Hyundai dealer not interested".  Mate, not a time to be a wimp! This is warranty work. Go kick ass.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2019, 17:20:27 by nzenigma » »
  • Every FD model; BMW Z3 M; Mitzi Magna(mobile office)

 


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