[Pieman]

2012 1.6 crdi.

Hi again..
Now I've owned the i30 for 2 weeks I thought I'd ask about its strange rear end handling.

I noticed  the day I bought it that when you hit the slight bump on a bend the back end hops and skips around like a spring lamb.
Well it's not that bad but the rear end definitely moves around a bit. 
I thought it was maybe either the 4 brand new unbranded tyres on 15" steel rims or maybe just the way the i30 suspension is set up.
Well I put 17" alloys on a few days ago and apart from being slightly firmer, the hopping sensation is identical.

I drive for a living and I've driven 100s of cars new and old, but I've never felt anything like this.  I wouldn't  say it feels dangerous, just odd.  I put my 2  6'5" sons in the back(plenty of leg and head room ) to see if weight helps but still does it.

Nothing seems broken and no excessive roll. Any ideas? 

Thankyou.

[CraigB]

It’s a shot in the dark but possibly worn shock absorbers

[Pieman]

It’s a shot in the dark but possibly worn shock absorbers

That crossed my mind.  That car belonged to cat protection league for the first 7 years, then the couple I bought it from for 1 year have dogs. I wonder if there was maybe a cage in the back.  Car stunk of dogs when I got it.  All clean now.
Still no excess roll but I guess struts might be bottoming out when cornering.  I'll look into it.  👍

[nzenigma]

Like Craig, my mind goes to shokies. I assume the car isnt sagging at the back due to heavy loads?  = Springs?
  Also check the  rear wheel alignment. If
If any of the above have problems, it is exaggerated by ESP and ABS

[Pieman]

Like Craig, my mind goes to shokies. I assume the car isnt sagging at the back due to heavy loads?  = Springs?
  Also check the  rear wheel alignment. If
If any of the above have problems, it is exaggerated by ESP and ABS

I think it must be shocks.  At well under £100 and an hour fitting (max) , I don't mind throwing a pair at it.  I'll be keeping the car for 5yrs minimum.

Not sagging, car drives and brakes in a straight line, plus not driving it hard enough for esp or abs to kick in. 👍

One more job to keep me busy when in lockdown. 😁

[nzenigma]

Like Craig, my mind goes to shokies. I assume the car isnt sagging at the back due to heavy loads?  = Springs?
  Also check the  rear wheel alignment. If
If any of the above have problems, it is exaggerated by ESP and ABS

I think it must be shocks.  At well under £100 and an hour fitting (max) , I don't mind throwing a pair at it.  I'll be keeping the car for 5yrs minimum.

Not sagging, car drives and brakes in a straight line, plus not driving it hard enough for esp or abs to kick in. 👍

One more job to keep me busy when in lockdown. 😁

 

Way to go. Im also planning for solitary confinement.. Should be fun   

Just one more comment on the ESP and ABS. You dont have to drive hard or fast for it to act. One  FD I had was locking up a rear brake as I turned from the driveway to the street. The rear alignment was out, but car drove quite well.....straight road.
Being handy, you can simply use a string line to see if cat women has belted a kerb or two.

Best of luck on all above. 

[Sussex Cobblers]

Had a problem on an i30 cw with 114000 miles on the clock.  Noticed a sort of rumbling from the rear at about 40000 miles.  Original Hankooks worn out do changed to Michelin Cross Climates.  Quiet for abot 5000 miles then noise started again.  Convinced it was wheel bearing (have only been driving for 50 years so have experienced this before!).  Hyundai dealer says no problem.  10000 miles later its still there.  Hyundai check again, this time all 4 wheels.  No problem they say, but if it happens again, then to call the RAC out and they will diagnose the problem!  (You couldn't make it up, could you?).  But at the same time they admit others have complained and they recommend upping the tyre pressures to "fully loaded".  Doesn't work... Noise worse with front seat passenger.  But noise can usually be masked by turning radio volume up! Decide to get 4 wheel tracking done at 75000 miles as front tyres both wearing quickly on the inside edges and ordinary front wheel tracking indicates that it is within specification.  4 wheel tracking done by "quick fit" tyre outlet.  They say there is no problem.  Tyres still wearing, and at last MOT test at around 100000 miles the front nearside (only 5000 miles old) was worn on the outer edge down to illegal.  The front offside was getting close to illegal also on the nearside edge.  Had long given up on Hyundai dealers by now, but was recommended by my local independent to a specialist accident repairer in Uckfield.

Their check showed the car was pulling to the nearside, but if you lifted up the car by about 10mm at the back, it moved into its proper setting.  In essence the rear suspension was too low/weak and pushing the car to the nearside, hence the front tyre wear.  Suggested solution was new rear springs and shock absorbers, because there is no adjustment on the i30 rear suspension.  Total cost was £400 at my local garage.  Noise since then, zero.  Just wish I'd had the 4 wheel tracking checked ny a real expert around 40000 miles!

[nzenigma]

I assume that you have an FD?  Rear Wheel alignment can be done. But not lift, so yea like most makes, only new springs and shocks will deal with your problem.

 Also for @Pieman .  Both the FD & GD tend to wear front tyres ( as you describe) at the dealer's lower specified pressure. We run front pressure at 38 psi. It eliminates wear and gives better handling.

[Dazzler]

Good on you Gazza @nzenigma loving your work.. 

[Pieman]

I assume that you have an FD?  Rear Wheel alignment can be done. But not lift, so yea like most makes, only new springs and shocks will deal with your problem.

 Also for @Pieman .  Both the FD & GD tend to wear front tyres ( as you describe) at the dealer's lower specified pressure. We run front pressure at 38 psi. It eliminates wear and gives better handling.

Thanks. 

How do i know if it's an FD or GD?  2012 1.6crdi Classic. 6 speed

[Dazzler]

I assume that you have an FD?  Rear Wheel alignment can be done. But not lift, so yea like most makes, only new springs and shocks will deal with your problem.

 Also for @Pieman .  Both the FD & GD tend to wear front tyres ( as you describe) at the dealer's lower specified pressure. We run front pressure at 38 psi. It eliminates wear and gives better handling.

Thanks. 

How do i know if it's an FD or GD?  2012 1.6crdi Classic. 6 speed

FD is the series 1 shape. GD is the series 2 shape. 2012 was a transition year so that doesn't help me. Easiest way for you if you are not sure what I mean by series 1 or 2 is look at our Gallery which is split into the 3 different series.

[Pieman]

Sorry for not knowing.  Mine's a new shape.   

[Dazzler]

Sorry for not knowing.  Mine's a new shape.   

Don't be sorry. It's all good. If you look up the Hyundai i30 on Wikipedia there is some good info about the different series and models etc.. It can get complicated, particularly with models as they vary a lot between countries with things like engine sizes and specs.

[nzenigma]

Sorry for not knowing.  Mine's a new shape.   

  Is ok, still use 38 psi front

[Pieman]

New shocks ordered. 
Just put car on ramps for a quick look around, to get to know the car a bit better. I was amazed at how sophisticated the back end is. I counted a total of 16 bushes/balljoints 

That's complicated for a fwd i thought.  Anyway i had a prod and pull with a tyre lever and none of them feel different to their opposite counterpart so presume(for now) that they're in spec.  None visibly loose or broken.  Will be fitting shocks on my next days off and go from there.    

[Pieman]

Bet it's never been this clean.   

New Monroe shocks have more resistance than the old ones,  i'll see how they handle on way to work tomorrow night.   

[Dazzler]

Bet it's never been this clean.   

New Monroe shocks have more resistance than the old ones,  i'll see how they handle on way to work tomorrow night.   

Await your feedback with interest. 

[Pieman]

All Cured!  Well, it feels loads better. Tempted to change the fronts next.  No idea why the original shocks would be knackered after just 81000 miles.   

[tw2005]

All Cured!  Well, it feels loads better. Tempted to change the fronts next.  No idea why the original shocks would be knackered after just 81000 miles.   

The rears on both of mine were first to go.  Both had around 160000km. The hatch chopped up the inner edge, loads of noise and the same with the wagon I noticed the tyres getting noisey.

I puy KYB excels in mine. I have another with 400000km and it has Kybs which look like they've done over 200000k and function perfect still although not quite as firm compared to my 4th i30 my boy has.

[mickd]

All Cured!  Well, it feels loads better. Tempted to change the fronts next.  No idea why the original shocks would be knackered after just 81000 miles.   

BIG cats  !  !      

[Pieman]

All Cured!  Well, it feels loads better. Tempted to change the fronts next.  No idea why the original shocks would be knackered after just 81000 miles.   

BIG cats  !  !