Author Topic: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)  (Read 529 times)

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Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« October 24, 2020, 22:43:27 »
I decided it was time to  put on the winters.  So took them out of the garage and went ... nowhere. The stupid "key" - just a socket with a fancy inner shape , worjed just fine on the first bolt and then it would jump off and slip on all 3  remaining wheels. WTH ... so looked like i ternals got semi stripped.
Got the part number and needed just the socket.
It appears thst lug nuts  key ( same part number) have about 12   patterns  and there is no way to get a socket that would guaranteed work on your lug nuts.
Dealer has a "" master key"  so only way is to take the car in their shop to undo the lug nuts and then install a new ones.
Does something similar happened to you guys?

I ended up getting a new wheel  lug lock set and i will tap a 3/4 socket on top of the  installed lugs to take them out.  I will go to town on them tomorrow.


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  • gb United Kingdom
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #1 : October 27, 2020, 11:11:54 »
If you're talking about the McGard locking wheel key, I damaged the key on my partners car trying to get a wheel off. It was my own fault, I didn't keep the key square onto the nut and it slipped off. Fortunately, there was no damage to the wheel nut. I still had the paper slip supplied with the car that had the key code printed on it, so I was able to order a replacement key direct from McGard (not the dealer). Cost about £16, and worked fine to get the wheels off. I have a torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts to the right torque. It doesn't take much extra torque to over-tighten the nuts to the point where the locking key will break before loosening them.
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #2 : November 01, 2020, 16:35:42 »
Just an update on this in case someone ends up in the same ... situation.
You can tap ( hammer in ) a 3/4 bi-hexagonal socket and  then use a breaker bar to get it going. Use a larger socket as a base to tap out the key nut out of the 3/4 sockett. Youtube videos are also helpful.
Cheers.
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #3 : November 02, 2020, 05:54:45 »
Just an update on this in case someone ends up in the same ... situation.
You can tap ( hammer in ) a 3/4 bi-hexagonal socket and  then use a breaker bar to get it going. Use a larger socket as a base to tap out the key nut out of the 3/4 sockett. Youtube videos are also helpful.
Cheers.

Thanks for that. We always appreciate helpful updates.  :goodjob:
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #4 : November 02, 2020, 14:08:44 »
A garage wrecked the front locking nuts on our Skoda in January. They denied all responsibility so we had to get another garage to weld them off. Cost about £90.
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #5 : November 02, 2020, 14:17:54 »
My car has only 1 security locking nut on each wheel - the others are standard hexagons.

As an aside - my faith in security nuts was shaken when Libby had a Hyundai i10 and I had a Hyundai i30.

Her car was built in Korea,  my car was built in Czechoslovakia, but they both had identical security nuts.
« Last Edit: November 02, 2020, 14:23:56 by AlanHo » »
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #6 : November 02, 2020, 15:37:56 »
My car has only 1 security locking nut on each wheel - the others are standard hexagons.

As an aside - my faith in security nuts was shaken when Libby had a Hyundai i10 and I had a Hyundai i30.

Her car was built in Korea,  my car was built in Czechoslovakia, but they both had identical security nuts.
My son, years ago had a Ford, one of those which were a joint venture with Mazda.
He always used a crooklock steering lock.
One night he was out somewhere, went back to his car, unlocked it and realized he hadn't fitted the crooklock.  Which was OK. He started the car and drove home. When  he got there and pulled the key out of the ignition he realized he had been using the crooklock key.
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  • gb United Kingdom
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #7 : November 02, 2020, 20:00:34 »
It's important to apply the correct torque when tightening the wheel nuts. Whenever I take my car for new tyres, I take the locking nut off and refit the standard wheel nut, so there's less risk of it being damaged by them using an impact wrench. After I get the car back I put the locking nut back on and torque it up correctly.

The standard wrench supplied with the car isn't the best. If the nut is tight, resist the temptation to stand on the wrench because this makes it more likely to slip off and damage the wheel nut key and/or nut. Try a longer breaker bar instead.
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Re: Wheel nut lock - stripped "key" ( socket)
« Reply #8 : November 02, 2020, 22:55:37 »
It's important to apply the correct torque when tightening the wheel nuts. Whenever I take my car for new tyres, I take the locking nut off and refit the standard wheel nut, so there's less risk of it being damaged by them using an impact wrench. After I get the car back I put the locking nut back on and torque it up correctly.

The standard wrench supplied with the car isn't the best. If the nut is tight, resist the temptation to stand on the wrench because this makes it more likely to slip off and damage the wheel nut key and/or nut. Try a longer breaker bar instead.
Or  a 4 way cross brace.
Much safer all round. And you can apply more pressure than an air gun.
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