Front nearside spring broken

[eye30]

While out today I heard a cracking noise from the front nearside front wheel.

Going over speed bumps when it happened it was really odd feeling as the car didn't "bounce" and the steering feels slightly unresponsive turning left.

Back home checking I find the spring has broken at the 2nd loop and looking at the wheel arch you can see the gap to the tyre is marginal compared to the other side.

Got it booked into a local garage next week but was wondering how big a job it is replacing the spring?

[asathorny]

Is it a coilover Lester?

[eye30]

Is it a coilover Lester?

The big springy thingy so yes.

[asathorny]

I suspect that the garage may suggest that you need to do both side.  That last time this happened to me was with my Volvo estate and I was a LOT younger.  A pal of my, who was a trained mechanic, and I did it at home. We just changed the one with out the benefit of an overhead ramp as far as I recall it was not a huge job.  Obviously, my pal, came with spring compressors et al.  Thats all I can offer Lester 

[eye30]

Cheers Asa.

Booked in for next week as although I can do basic stuff I don't have the tools to do this.
Plus weather not at its best and I don't have undercover area to work.

Was reading it may be best to do both sides.
Garage didn't indicate both.

Any thoughts anyone on this.

[Surferdude]

Definitely both.
The unbroken one will not have the same tension as the new one.

And in any case, if one breaks (pretty unusual in my experience), there's a fair chance the other will follow.

[Shambles]

Yeah, and stop going over speed bumps at 80mph

[BrendanP]

I changed a front spring on a 2011 a couple of weeks ago. Not a hard job as long as you have some spring compressors. I couldn't find mine so a friendly garage changed the spring when I took the strut to them.

Jack car up, remove wheel, support with axle stand. Undo top joint of drop-link, this was really stiff to undo, remember there should be a flat on the ball joint to hold it still while you undo the nut. Put jack under hub and lift it up to remove tension off drop link so it can be pulled out of strut, then lower off and remove jack. Undo two bolts clamping strut to hub. Then will be stiff so clean threads with a wire brush and a squirt of penetrating oil before undoing nuts. May have to tap bolts out with a hammer, but put a block of wood against end of bolt so as not to damage thread.

Undo bolts securing brake hose and ABS sensor leads. Undo 3 nuts holding strut at top. Pull strut out from wheel arch, compress spring, undo top nut when spring is loose, remove top cap, carefully loosen off spring compressors and remove from spring.

Compress new spring, thread spring over shock absorber making sure bottom coil sits in pocket. Replace top cap, replace top nut, remove spring compressors and refit strut in car reversing steps taken to remove.

As soon as the weather is fine I'll replace the other spring. When one spring has broken, the other side may not be far behind, and I have in the past had a spring break and go through the tyre.  If it all goes smoothly, shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

[asathorny]

Do both Lester, get yer hand in that suitcase under't bed and spend some of yer dosh 

[BrendanP]

If you ever feel like tackling it yourself, I've made a step by step guide and posted it in the forum, titled i30 FD front strut removal.

[eye30]

Had to have the car recovered from home to the garage as when I looked at the other springs it was showing a big fracture so rather than take a chance and having it collapse on way to the garage arranged pick up.

Also, had the 2 anti roll bar link replace as spring had punctured the rubber boot. As an mot failure it had to be replaced so both done.

Drives like a new car.
Steering feels like it was when new, lighter and responsive.

So all sorted.......

Thanks all for comments.